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Vulcan Mind, 6b+
Steve Adamson and Mark Lord attempted a ground up ascent on August 26th, 1989. They fixed protection almost out to the arete. The route was completed the following day, making good use of the in-situ gear. Three rests on protection were taken on the first ascent.
Start about 4m to the right of Beam Me Up Scotty, in the center of the overhanging wall. Climb up a flake and make a long reach up to a horizontal crack. Reach up right to another thin horizontal crack, and traverse out right almost to the arete. Step up into a thin crack, then out right around the arete and mantle onto a good ledge (the first rest!). Step left and finish easily up a short notch.
The route was originally rated 5.10c R. Two bolts protect the start now, and the original R rating seems unnecessary. A grade of 5.10d/5.11a, no R, is probably more consistent with area grading.
Added by
Michael Johnston
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