There are no premium topo images available for this route page at the moment.
You can add new topo image on the topo page.
Blant edle stener og lekre jenter, ?
Morpho.. First ascent: Helge Øystein Maakestad 18.06.1989.
Note: On the photo you see a crack and a ledge to the right of the route: This is "off route" and belongs to "Sikre Perioder 7a+". The route follows the bolt line and goes up an overhanging wall on thin crimps, underclings and sidepulls. Note moreover that the "2021 Kolsås Climbing Club guide book" claims it was first climbed in 1990 - this is wrong. Grade: Unknown but "much harder than "Stive Dempere" and "Ayatollah F8a+"." If you want to claim an ascent: Publish an uncut video of the ascent on this site.
Added by
Helge Øystein Maakestad
Grade opinions
Beta
You are supposed to use a thin undercling for the right hand and reach with the left for a two-and-a half finger pocket. Then you match in this pocket, put your left foot on a small edge and reach for a good hold. The hard part is that you are standing on poor smears for the feet when going from the undercling to the finger pocket - this move is extremely hard and one of the hardest moves on the entire crag I believe. You need a combination of good footwork and extreme finger strength.
Note: I believe some people are cheating and are using a large ledge to the right on another route - this large ledge is not a part of the route - you are supposed to follow the bolt line. If you use this large ledge to the right the route is graded 7a/a+. If you want to claim an ascent of the route: Post an uncut beta video on this site - then the world can verfiy you are doing the correct version of the route.
Ascents from public tick lists
Helge Øystein Maakestad
FIRST ASCENT
1989-06-18
Red point
Morpho, a boulder on rope. The crux is harder than the crux on "Marathon F8b" (believed to be Norway's first F8b) and the top crux of "Draumkvedet 8c". Note: It is forbidden to dyno and to use holds on "Baker for smed" and "Sikre perioder". First ascent: summer 1989. Grade: Unknown. If you are able to do the route without the far right ledge, please post an uncut video of the ascent. It would be interesting to see your beta.
