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Presten
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Presten
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(The West Pillar Direct) Although long called Vestpillaren this popular and brilliant climb only includes four pitches of the original line - but has become Lofoten's 'must-do' route, and it is worth the effort involved. The normal ascent time is 6 to 8 hours, although an efficient team can do it in less. Begin about 20m to the left of a steep water-washed gully filled with grass and some loose blocks, up the central one of three shallow corners. FA. Twelve days after doing the Westpillar Original, Arild returned with Finn Tore Bjørnstad and made the first ascent of the Normal avslutning (Normal Exit) 30.6.1978. The Slanting Corner pitch was first climbed by Helge Stokstad and Harald Henden in 1982. Arild and Finn Tore Bjørnstad did the Direct Start used here "sometime in the 1980s'.
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This was the original line on the face - an audacious undertaking envisioned and completed by Arild Meyer and Bynjar Tollefsen in the summer of 1978. The first ascent took 14 hours. These days it sees a lot less action than Vestpillaren Direct. Start up and right of the foot of the wall in the steep gully filled with grass and loose blocks. Climb this for 55m (either the grassy buttress or water-washed groove on the right - a rope is advisable). Belay where the angle eases. FA. Aril Meyer and Brynjar Tollefsen 10.6.1978 (14 hours). The team carried their courage in rucksack - pitons of all sizes, bongs and skyhooks. Meyer and Tollefsen swung leads, but high on the face, "we became very wet and cold." The upper section was climbed during a heavy rainstorm. "Shall we go down now?", asked Brynjar when the rain began. "Absolutely not!", replied Arild, typically determined to push on no matter what, and the pair succeeded. FFA. Hans Christian Doseth, Håvard Nesheim (using the Original avslutning) 6.1979.
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(Heaven Can Wait) This brilliant route has some great climbing and sensational finish high on the buttress. A large cam or two will come useful. Almost as good as route Vestpillaren Direct but likely to be a lot quieter. FA. (Pitches 2 and 3) Helge Stokstad, Harald Henden 1982. They climbed the initial crack system plus the Slanting Groove pitch of the Vestpilaren. FA. (as described) Patrik Fransson, Thørbjorn Enevold 15.6.1997. FA. (Variation finish) Jonas Dahlstrup et al 2000s.
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Presten
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(The Crusade) A fine and bold route up the cracks and grooves just left of the nose of the cliff. The final section follows the long loose corner system. Carry a full rack up to (and including) a large cam. Begin up a pale, right-facing, 20m high groove below and left of the 'Big Roof'. FA. The first ascent of To krigere by Sjur Nesheim and Yngvar Julin in 1981 included pitches 8 to 11 for the first time. A similiar line to today's pitches 1 to 4 was first climbed by Håvard Nesheim and Tom Pedersen in 1979, but they finished up Vestpillaren. In 1980, Sjur Nesheim and Kjell Skog descended from the top of pitch 5 without bolting the crux slab. Bengt Flygel Nilsfors and Odd-Roar Wiik then added the necessary bolts and linked the complete free first ascent together, on their fifth attempt, in 8.1992.
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(The High Priest) An indifferent start leads to superb climbing on the black dyke that splits the sheets of white granite below the Big Roof. Start below the left-hand end of the Big Roof at the base of a crack system that runs up the face at an open groove. This is 20m right of the tall right-facing corner that is the start of route Korstoget. FA. Bengt Flygel Nilsfors, Aart Verhage 5.1992.
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(The Journey) A tremendous climb on perfect rock up Presten's imposing central section. The route offers technical climbing on superb rock, but is poorly protected in several places - a UK grade of 'solid E4' has been suggested. A double rack of cams (micro to large) is recommended, plus a double rack and full range of wires. Begin a few metres to the right of the open groove of Ypperstepresten. FA. Tom Cosgriff, Sjur Nesheim 9.7.1993. The first ascent took 11 hours and was done with all nut protection.
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(The Bell Ringer) A decent set of pitches on the upper central portion of Presten, using a parallel crack/groove system just to the left of route Vestpillaren Direct's upper section, rejoining it below the 'Slanting Corner'. FA. Tommy Nilsson and partner (some aid on pitch 7) 1984 or 1985. FFA. Tim Hansen, Ingun Raastad Summer 1986.
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This was the original line on the face - an audacious undertaking envisioned and completed by Arild Meyer and Bynjar Tollefsen in the summer of 1978. The first ascent took 14 hours. These days it sees a lot less action than Vestpillaren Direct. Start up and right of the foot of the wall in the steep gully filled with grass and loose blocks. Climb this for 55m (either the grassy buttress or water-washed groove on the right - a rope is advisable). Belay where the angle eases. FA. Aril Meyer and Brynjar Tollefsen 10.6.1978 (14 hours). The team carried their courage in rucksack - pitons of all sizes, bongs and skyhooks. Meyer and Tollefsen swung leads, but high on the face, "we became very wet and cold." The upper section was climbed during a heavy rainstorm. "Shall we go down now?", asked Brynjar when the rain began. "Absolutely not!", replied Arild, typically determined to push on no matter what, and the pair succeeded. FFA. Hans Christian Doseth, Håvard Nesheim (using the Original avslutning) 6.1979.
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The Great Roof!. Climb what you want up to the bottom right corner of the route. Aid (C1) or free climb (N6-) up the start of the Codfather roof pitch before heading out across left in a crack through the great roof (A2). Pull through the center of the roof onto the upper face (WILD POSITION) and transition into free climbing slabs at N5+ with some cams and skyhooks for protection (exciting) while you trend right towards the StorHylla belay on the vestpillaren driect (70m pitch). FA. Max Miner and Matti Kaivaja
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Presten
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This was the original line on the face - an audacious undertaking envisioned and completed by Arild Meyer and Bynjar Tollefsen in the summer of 1978. The first ascent took 14 hours. These days it sees a lot less action than Vestpillaren Direct. Start up and right of the foot of the wall in the steep gully filled with grass and loose blocks. Climb this for 55m (either the grassy buttress or water-washed groove on the right - a rope is advisable). Belay where the angle eases. FA. Aril Meyer and Brynjar Tollefsen 10.6.1978 (14 hours). The team carried their courage in rucksack - pitons of all sizes, bongs and skyhooks. Meyer and Tollefsen swung leads, but high on the face, "we became very wet and cold." The upper section was climbed during a heavy rainstorm. "Shall we go down now?", asked Brynjar when the rain began. "Absolutely not!", replied Arild, typically determined to push on no matter what, and the pair succeeded. FFA. Hans Christian Doseth, Håvard Nesheim (using the Original avslutning) 6.1979.
There are 13 routes that have not yet been drawn on a topo image. See full list of routes from Presten .