Jukka Kopra

Pleasant climbing. The start holds are polished and the 6b+ pitch is a bit slippery by nature. Otherwise the climbing was very convenient with big hand holds and nice sequences.

Really nice when you just spot the holds.

Maybe more like 7b, once I had the moves dialed well it felt rather comfortable.

Two stupid clips messed up the sight.

Two bolts were a bit rusty.

Easier than the left route.

Felt according to the grade. Very continuous with the difficulty.

Not too difficult if you know something about jamming.

Quite comfortably after seconding Joona. Few easy runout sections. Overall average protectability.

A child lock at the beginning. After that varied and sustained slab climbing.

Very enjoyable after the beginning and the crux went surprisingly smoothly with the right beta.

Did both pitches at one go. Not too difficult for thick palms.

Partly wet, partly crumbling. Adventurous.

Delicate at the start, enjoyable at the lip. Took some toprope laps before the send.

The start looks intimidating but climbs quite securely. Varied climbing with difficulties all along the way.

2nd, much more technical than Predator.

2nd.

Not too difficult.

2nd

2nd

2nd

In the end I have to regard this as the better route...

2nd, messed the foot sequence.

The third clip is difficult to make, I needed it extended.

With Joni L. The biggest aspect of the route seemed to be the descent, climbing felt quite comfortable all the way up. Save some strenght for reaching the Vågakalle descent path, it was 1,5h simul for us.

jug pulling all the way.

Fell once on the crux pitch, clean with 2nd try. With Joni.

Varied and quite continuous, lots of good jamming!

Complex crux.

The first half did not quite make me smile...

2nd, quite clear moves with incut crimpers, missed one hold.

A clear crux with so sharp holds I can recommend to tape a few fingers in the left hand before taking a try.

Quite varied and sustained, surprisingly enjoyable!

Hard to see the holds on this rock type. Slippery and technical with a few bigger moves.

Had to revise the foot beta before sending this one...

Quite cruxy. Good holds and certainly not polished.

And all the pieces matter...

2nd. Surprisingly technical around the crux.

2nd

A long pitch. Fell off at the crux, went past it with second try. Otherwise a clean ascent.

Just brilliant two pitches. From thin crack to some face climbing to a nice offwidth in the second pitch! No need for the #6 cams, one #5 is enough.

Great varied jamming and a nice straight line. A classic.

A bit short...

Technical, maybe a bit stiff also. Very recommendable.

First 7c in two sessions.

p3: Tried to follow the line on Rockfax topo, but there would be ~15m unprotected climbing under the overlaps. We climbed from left traversing through the dark horizontal streak. p4: There was a very easy traverse option on the height of the drawn line. No thin moves. N6-? p5: The roof was very poorly protected with ~10m of almost unprotected climbing and good protection only in the inner corner of the roof. p9: This looked so moshy that we decided to climb the Slanting corner instead not having climbed this famous pitch beforehand.

The rock was mostly flakes which seemed pretty loose. Therefore protecting did not feel very secure. Climbing itself was enjoyable.

2nd

2nd

Felt a bit difficult for 7a.

I suppose the name should be En viaje a Cuba. The route is mixed with Xevo in the older topo, but seems that the right hand route is more difficult (=Xevo).

Just what I was looking for, technical stemming and pretty good rests.

Climbed until the middle anchor. Felt 7a already at that point.

Continuous and technical.

Climbs excellently! Hard for 6c.

6a+, 6b+, 5+. Pretty good stone quality if you forget the glued hold of the first pitch and the bushes on the last pitch.

2nd go.One bolt in the middle of the crux is placed badly. Should have onsighted, fell just before the anchor.

2nd go.

Took some effort. Bouldery crux with bad feet, otherwise continuous.

I'd give it the plus, though the holds were somewhat mossy and needed some brushing between the 1st and 2nd go.

Nice versatile climb!

Fourth try of the day with sending pressures subsided.

Not easy to figure beta. Climbs well in the end!

Climbs very nicely with conventional holds and also surprisingly well secured.

Quite uncomfortable crux with difficult feet!

Maybe a bit tricky for the grade.

The climbing part is short but climbs in my opinion very well! A classic route by T. Ojala.

2nd go

2nd

2nd

Climbed the ending a bit left from the anchor.

My kind of route. Sitting rest, some compression, optional fist jam rest.

2nd. Didn't notice an important hold.

The route was a bit mossy but the crux was clean. Felt difficult for the grade, maybe somewhat mental.

2nd

Missed the os 2 years ago. Now felt quite a bit easier with dry weather.

Versatile and pretty sustained. Very good for the grade!

Good versatile climbing with two shelves.

Just managed to get it done before the sun hit the route!

Good warm up.

Sharp.

2nd, good crimping endurance.

Difficult to onsight, not too bad when you know where to find the holds and how they work.

2nd. An eye catching line which climbs pretty nice. A bit polished.

Beta by wife.

2nd, chose wrong foot hold in the beginning. Great moves!

Just enjoyable all the way.

Almost an os but the route was so great I decided to enjoy it twice more before a tick.

It just had to be done.

This year first try. Good climbing from the start to the end.

Lots of climbing with good rests.

Technical! The wind might have helped me with a few flags, it was pretty strong.

Nice laybacking!

Climbs well, felt rather easy.

Pretty mental on +4C weather after I lost sensation from fingers. Otherwise very recommendable!

1 toprope round to get the beta, then straight up :) Good friction day.

Almost got mental after couple of too hot days. When the rock is cool it doesn't feel physically too bad, but still no margin for errors...

2nd, easy to get locked in the end.

2nd, very enjoyable. Messed the os with sticking too long on the bulge,

Shares some sequence with Bullyparade. Did not feel that much more difficult.

Pretty good holds, continuous.

2nd, technical crux!

Good, difficult.

Climbed the first 2 pitches as second. Lead the three last, the 3rd did not go clean since I found the style very uncomfortable. Otherwise great climbing though the last pitch is really short and more 5c than 6b+.

Good and continuous.

2nd go after figuring and going through the crux sequence. My style or soft.

2nd, missed a crucial hold in the end and tried to climb a bit off route with too dirty holds.

The usual warm up, polished but good climbing.

2nd, messed a bit with foothold sequence and missed the os.

Very enjoyable route on good quality rock.

Really enjoyably versatile climbing!

2nd, again good jug pulling, though polished holds made it feel rather difficult.

2nd, strenuous towards the end.

Somewhat polished but good jug pulling in any case.

Nice continuous inner corner!

Uncomfortable and technical crux

Felt difficult.

Good rests to be found, did not feel too strenuous.

Felt easy, up in ~3min.

2nd, difficult to os the beginning.

2nd, though I actually did not get the beta to the crux at all on 1st round. Then tried something different and it worked out!

2nd, Did not feel too difficult. Couple of good rests on the route.

Nice and long with good climbing all the way.

Failed the start couple of times before getting good beta.

Straight forward with good movement.

Big moves, slippery footholds.

Nice, continuous with good rests.

Bit polished.

2nd, not easy.

2nd

2nd

Nice continuous upper part.

A classic I think.

Such a delightful climb!

2nd, a bit difficult to read on OS as many others in Louhos.

2nd. Nice two parts climb!

Liked it more than Karisma. Did not feel more difficult.

Bit on the soft side? Or then just suitable for me...

2nd, felt difficult for the grade.

4 days of projecting.

2nd, felt more like 6c.

With a strong wind!

Maybe 7-?

Quite stiff for a 7-... 7 in the Klättertorpet topo.

Surprisingly mental!

Good for warm up!

Got to the chains on os but wasn't able to clip. I found nothing reasonable so put 2 qd and went 2nd, if this can be counted...

Easy if you have wingspan.

Not too polished! Wow such Jugs!

Easy but enjoyable.

2nd, read bad just before the anchor...

As an os it felt like the grade :) My shoe almost slipped off at the lip...

2nd go.

Nice moves, good holds.

Enjoyable and 3D. Extension was hard to onsight, maybe next time.

2md, got pumped just before chains. Did not feel like 7b...

Pretty easy.

Very sharp. Otherwise nice.

Head failed at the first bolt without pre-clip on os...

My lady checked the beta!

Just a perfect struggle for me and suited my style.

2nd, good climbing and a little demanding on head, at least for me.

Rather polished.

Nice varied climbing with good holds.

2nd

Perfect pitches all the way. Only the crux pitches were somewhat polished. We climbed them as one leg though I fell short after the middle anchor and had a short rest there.

A bit on the polished side but quite climbable still.

Very enjoyable climbing with nice holds. Maybe somewhat soft for the grade.

2nd, varied and quite continuous on the difficulty.

I eliminated the stone on the left. Felt like 6+.

Hummerii, kaviaarii ja paistettui etanoita.

Used 1 bolt because I missed an important cam. Not so easy to secure as it looks like.

Very recommendable adventure climbing :P

Nice! Almost 2nd...

2nd

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