Alan Chan

Second / third attempt. Soft 7a.

More power needed for onsight/flash

Technical slab. Type 2 fun.

Fun moves!

One move wonder. Like a V4 boulder problem. 6c+ seems a bit stiff if you are short.

Short but fierce crux. V4 boulder maybe?

Soft 7a. Possibly 6c+. Shorter people would disagree.

2nd lead attempt. Very condition dependent.

Great route, thought provoking.

Fine cup-hand crack. Also home to a one foot long lizard which wasn’t very happy being disturbed.

Headpointed after losing onsight. The “cracks” on the lower parts are flaring shallow scars on the slab face and best protected by offset small cams. The crux is the first 4-5 meters of the route. Falling low down may hit the boulder on the left. Probably a stiff E2 5c

Best existing offwidth crack in Hong Kong. The British trad grade E4 6a assigned by the FA is fair.

Actually a head point. Much more fun to climb as an offwidth than a layback crack. E2 5c.

Actually a head point, climbed on trad gear on the 2nd attempt. Makes more sense as a trad route than a sport route as it follows a continuous crack. Sport grade 6c+ or trad grade E3 5c in my opinion. Upper half is an offwidth so bring at least two BD no. 6 cams.

If you avoid the corner or wall behind as per the guidebook (Hong Kong Climbing), it is a 6c, as graded in the guidebook.

Straightforward. No technical moves.

Great route. Best to wear long sleeves or cover your forearms - otherwise reaching for the hold above the lip will cause you some skin.

Excellent face climb. Either a soft 7a+ or a stiff 7a. Some of the expansion bolts' hangers were removed by unknown party in 2020 but I restored some of the hangers in early February 2021 so the first pitch is currently climbable.

Climbed on trad gear with the last two pitches led as one pitch (bad idea in hindsight, tons of rope drag). Pitch 3 provides some of the best hand jams on Lion Rock. Probably E2 when climbed on trad.

A soft 6c+ but still a 6c+

Clipping the 2nd bolt is awkward

Pumpy 6c+.

You don't have to jump (if you are fairly tall) but the jump does look cool!

My first 6c+ onsight. Later climbed on gear on 27 December 2020. Would give it E3 5c.

Nice route, feels easier if you can find that bomber hand jam. Trad climbed it on the same day (around E2 5c)

Later climbed on trad on 24 January 2021. Basically a E3 5c when climbed on trad.

Later led on trad on 24 April 2021. Would give it E2/3 5c.

Later lead rope-soloed on gear on 8 November 2020. Would give it E2.

British trad grade wise, it is E2 5c.

A soft 7a+. My first 5.12 climb.

My first 6c flash

My first 6b+ sport route. The onsight came as a surprise.