Leonid Nazarov

As a Lord of the rings fan this one was a must have. With my reach of 1,75 the beta from Mika was not possible. So I did a mix of Filips start beta and Mikas end what with my reach deserves a + in my opinion. Maybe not correct because the definition says not use the far left holds so in this case I did a "new" variation. Let us call it Minas Tirith from Beleriand (yes, it was a fortress of Finrod, brother of Galadriel 6000 years before Lotr plays). :-)

This one the boulder gods made for me.

Slightly harder than the right one

bleauesque

Nomen est omen!

Very much my style but still needed two hours to figure out the crux on the sloper rail. A spotter is recommended to just feel better with the high heel.

the first moves are definitely adding difficult

much easier than the real one.

easier to put pressure on the bad feet

Semi jump start as most of the (tall) guys on bleau.info videos do. Quite challenging with 1,75 arm span.

taking the starting position was the crux

A very cool problem which took me four sessions in the end. Did it in the end similar to the FA video but went with the right hand for the jug.

Definitely harder than the original but also brilliant

Nice roof climbing leading into a wonderful top out. Bleau at it best!

Soft but super nice! Could be perfect for "first 7A in Bleau". The red 26 is definitely the hardest part.

hard first move. morpho.

Nice one. Way easier than the other ones.

powerful. first move with kneebar and kneepad.

This one took me a lot of nerves, skin and power over the last few years. Did it first with far right slopy something and then directly using the sharp left crimp. Both variants are the same difficulty for me.

super hard first move... with bigger reach for sure easier.

Top out is the hardest part. Pumpy as hell.

Annoying first moves leading into a powerful boulder. Exit left of arête. Would be so nice just to start higher with the left hand. Would make the boulder easier but much much nicer!

Ass rocket leading to a quite easy mantle.

One of the best climbs I have done so far in Bleau!

Didn't expect to climb it today. Many tries over the last years but never with kind of good skin. So maybe it was the key for the starting crimps.

harder than Ulysse for sure!

super hard start and hard compression.

Hard without left heel hook. The stand up move (of the 6A) to the top is brilliant

athletic moves! Nice one!

wonderful one! really nice!

wonderful one!

the hardest one on the block.

hard transition to the left topout. solved with high toe hoolk.

the easiest one on the block but also the best one. wonderful moves on the arête.

morpho. I topped out over left. the starting flake very very fragile!

slightly harder

beautiful

Looks like a 3b that you can easily flash. Turned out to be a 1,5 h battle. Big reach helps for sure.

barefoot flash... so maybe compared with Levitation just 5 m left it is more of a 5...

nice powerful moves!

nice compression. top out right because I didn't want to hang on the fragile jug.

I honestly think that 7A + 7A with no rest in between should at least deserve a +.

Compared to all other variations this one deserves a +.

Would be a classic if it would be in one of the popular areas and maybe if the bloc in the back would not be there. Topped out over the right arete what is maybe easier, but definitely more safe.

Really nice one! Was my unfinished business from last year.

I liked it very much. Small compression moves. Very bleauesque!

hard without using left heel and foot jam in the middle.

morpho. first move hard for smaller ones.

hard for smaller ones

hard first move with arm span under 1,85.

you don't need the wet pinchy thing in the middle :)

top out right 6C, top out left 7A. F**k the 6C+ grade :-)

beautiful

sit start on left arête. otherwise definitely 1-2 grades harder.

hardest 5 of the last 5 years for sure

nice one mover

nice and soft one

first move is the hardest. solved with kneebar and kneepad.

Starting both hands on the left sloper like in the video makes it 6b+ imho... hardest move is the first bump with left hand during your right hand is on the bad sloper.

pumpy, last move is for me the hardest

slightly harder than the original

reachy but superb movements

slightly harder topout

with the right crimp ok for 6C, with hook and direct definitely in the 7A range.

used right crimp for top out, so I went along the arête till pinch under the vertical very good crimp and went over the heel on the start hold up and to the top of the orange one.

powerful

One mover. Started with high right crimp. Everything else makes no sense. Used two pads to start. Still the one move needs a lot of power and techniques.

nice one! technical crimps.

made for people with injured left foot :-)

no topout due to safety reasons. nice athletic moves on good holds.

this first move! took me some learning process.

nice crimps

way harder than bleau

Nice sloper traverse! not recommended to climb in June, mosquito hell...

Amazing rock quality here! Felt hard without using left heelhook (because of injury).

fck the 6C+ grade ;-) its 7A or 6C. I this case I think 7A.

quite the same like shark surfer. only first move different? Still, nice one.

no hooks needed :-) dabby at the stone in this variation.

hard and painful

Real gem!!!

I skipped all the bad holds. Big move from start to left sloper, than hard top out on slopy pockets. In this case 7A feels more correct for me.

nice one!

Super nice one! Reachy!

sit start than to the pocket and to the arete. Technical moves! nice one!

what I climbed feels like 7A+/B, not sure about start position. I started on small crimp and sloper. Dabby and scary topout.

the foodholds are super polished. Scary to stand on them.

hard first move. did it with right heel

Don't know how to do a sit for 7A??? Did a stand start with left hand on pinchy something and right hand on a crimp of Perpetuo, than jump for the top. This feels like solid 7A.

Now Kubik is free :-) Bad landing but superb powerfull and technical moves leading into hard compression.

thanks Mika for brushing and motivation. Hard compression on bad slopers. Stand start still a project :-)

messed up the flash... quite easy for my size.

slopers, handjams and in the end you need some hard commitment.

crimpy madness leading into unsafe topout. perfect!

nice roof!

start with right high heel, top move with kneepad

super nice one!

superb one!

hard mantle over left heel. nice start moves!

made tha whole fontainebleau expirience on this one.

c'mon, it deserves the 7

pumpy

With kneepad and two kneebars it goes somehow for the grade. Otherwise just super hard.

powerfull moves with a technical swing. First class boulder!

super nice one. Be aware of a 100% font topout in the end :-)

full process from every move impossible to possible. Thanks Mika for the motivation!

nice technical moves with a dyno ending.

one of the best boulders I've ever climbed! A real gem!

sit start makes no sense for me... from stand a nice 7A with the crux in anti hero.

solid 7A

painfull sitstart. From stand start a *** star boulder.

I used a good crimp on the left. This way maybe 6B and not that painfull.

wow! super nice slab! could be a fontainbleau 6A as well :-)

I took the slopers on the kind of arete so I did not jump.

reachy, so I needed an other beta. Took a right crimp from the left shoulder.

climbed with kneepad.

super session with Gabriel! World class bouldering here in Sörfjärden!!!

my boulder number 100 of 7a-and-harder in 2017 :-)