Matthias Lang

overhanging start with jugs, then passage with crimps and to the top. managed to recover by BREATHING at the end hahaha ;)

warm-up on pockets

great dihedral to stem up, at the end pumpy traverse to the left...awesome doing sport-climbing in austria in march!!! next time "midian direkt"!!!

cool climb on crimps and pockets and some heel-hooks, then reachy move to jug and quite high top-out

nice overhanging wall with a traverse starting left and going to the right with a shouldery move, then three moves to cross with the left hand and top-out. possible to traverse more to the right and top-out there.

nice mantle which niki started to clean and brush. some metres left of "teil einer jugendbewegung" right next to a tree. good moves with a sloper and a crimps which you change to undercling to top-out. don't if already some climbed that, otherwise a historical FA hahaha ;)

nice overhanging sloper-arete with dynamic moves to crimp at the end

another tall slab with good crimps

tall, but easy slab

slightly overhanging shield...with strange artifical hole

sharp crimps on vertical bloc

another sloper-arete. the 7a+ sitstart i couldn't understand

niiiice sloper-arete

nice bloc in snowey conditions. line goes up the right arete

sitstart and move to a painful crimp, then under-cling and stand-up

sitstart on crimp and two moves on crimps, then dyno to jug. completely wet so i destroyed my fingers a bit ;)

beautiful (and on this day dry) line on this huge wall. crux with heelhook...2nd go :)

beautiful slab with a fine crack

same bloc with the nice view

nice slab

nice & funny warm-up right next to "champane supernove"

awesome line out a roof, dyno to the lip and funny mantle...tried it a bit some weeks ago and today first try, though bad & wet conditions :)

great boulder to finish off the day!!! hard first section with 5 crazy moves, then sustained and pumpy along the lip of the boulder. checked out the tricky end two days before and linked the first passage with the big move so i knew it's possibe :)

nice moves on slopers with an essential hook which has to stick good

nice boulder on crimps at the beginning, then beautiful moves on good holds to the top

nice boulder up the first 3 quick-draws, then a beautiful & balancy arete and two easy roofs at the end...FLASH!!! :)

nice warm-up route with chimney, crimps and pockets

awesome 20 metres of dihedral-climbing with nearly no holds and a lot of hard steming and crazy foot-positions, then the really intimitating roof which you climb up using a brutal lay-back-finger-crack followed by a strange mantle...my first 5.12a ONSIGHT!!! What a day :)

highball on futuristic rock-features...don't know about grade or name...about V2-3

highball no.2 on futuristic rock-features...don't know about grade or name...about V2-3

beautiful, tall & slightly overhanging wall with crimps...~V3-4

nice sit-start on huge hold, then side-crimps and under-cling, feet up and reachy move to a bad crimps, match, feet up really high and huge move to another crimp-rail, then mental top-out...~V5

2nd try...awesome line through a wave-like wall. first crimpers then a jump to a jug!!! i thinks it's about V4

great, futuristic boulder up a mammut-looking bloc...many crimps and really balancy...about V5(+)

2nd try...vertical wall with under-clings...about V4

funny warm-up...don't know about the grade...about V2-3

great jugs to start, then crimps and techical top-out...about V3

awesome long & sustainted route with lovely holds

perfect, long warm-up on perfect lime-stone

nice vertical route with a complicated crux on tiny incut-limestone-crimps

at least one boulder on my first visit of this awesome spot :)

long move out of the roof + the long lip-traverse...without the sit-start of "entsafter" (which i nearly made on the same day)...nice birthday-session :)

nice boulder through the middle of "aufwärmwandl"...sit start with nice warm-up movements up the first metres, then a crux on crimps

awesome last session at C.U. for this summer. ripping the skin completeky off my hand & later with lots off tape finally sticking the last dyno of this great sustainted line. mayby FA?!?

V3; beautiful bloc!!! nice moves on side-pinches and slopers

V6; beautiful nice on the same bloc; just 10 min of work, nearly made a flash but failed at the technical top-out! nice ss on jug and side-slopper, reachy move to awesome sloper, heel-hook at the jug and match a tiny crimp...then some technical metres to top-out really high :)

V3; nice vertical problem for warm-up

V4; nice line on sloppers, however the "cyborg"-boulder is better

V4; one hard move to take off, then really easy

V7; my first V7 in bernal and this one in my opinion is more like 7B, especially because of the strange top-out...sit-start on good holds, then match to a double-crimp at your right, move your foot up high on your start-hold and block up with your left to a tiny, sharp side-crimp, match and big move with your right to a good crimp, match and get prepared for the top-out: another good crimp for your left, move your feet to the right, then a kind of bad pocket for your right hand from where you continue to the lip, move your feet and match the bad sloppers at the lip...then a real fight to mantle up :)

(~V7); nice technical exit through the big roof using the wall at the right side

long, lovely & sustainted route with goes up 35 metres. the first half you climb overhanging stalactites to a good rest and then more vertical and technical climb on tufas up to the chains

steep, overhanging & pumpy climb on stalactites with a crux on perfect crimps at the end and a really hard position to clip the chains...at left entrance of Cueva San Cayetano/3rd try

nice climb on tufas...short, funny and not too steep, actually the easiest route (the only 5.10) at Cueva de San Cayetano

2nd try (but should have been a flash)...nice short, overhanging route with a bouldery crux --> good sideholds plus a heelhook, then a huge move, then but your feet up and catch a tiny, bad crimp and from there a fast move to a good incut, then clip and keep it together to the chains.

nice warm-up on great holds

awesome route...long and sustainted with one sweet crux where you have to crimp a small sidehold

nice warm-up climb about 20 meters up the beautiful arete, then a good rest to finally conquer the big roof with some huge bouldery moves

nice vertical slab with great pockets and 2 easy overhangs at the top

some hard moves on crimps and 1-finger-pockets, then good rest, again hard moves + good rest...and so on :)

nice corner

scary climb up the first quick-draw...then keeping it together with a bad crimps and an undercling

nice finger crack then crux with a bad crimp

crux up to the first quick-draw

fiesta de crimps

V6; nice 45° overhanging shield, four hard moves on bad crimps and a hard dyno to catch the lip

V4; sloppers, undercling, sloppers

V4; nice vertical route on crimps with a scary top-out (without spot)

V5; sit-start of this slightly overhanging arete, adds to hard moves to get to the stand-start

V5; same start like "Malaria" but you go to the right with a bad, painful pocket

V4; nice vertical bloc with big moves on good crimps

V5; hard moves on bad sloppers, reaaaaally technical

V4; stand-start of this nice arete

V2; nice slab at "el rancho"

V1; another slab for warm-up with great holds

V5 (?); perfect overhanging arete with big moves on crimps

5.10a; nice free-solo on this great route following a good crack up "el capitán calzón"

V3; nice traverse for warm-up

V6; perfect boulder-problem, start on a great undercling with heelhook, then to a bad crimp and two compression-moves to reach a pocket, after that move your feet and a balancy move to a bad crimp and continue to the good rail, from there a hard top-out on crimps

V3; nice boulder for warm-up

beautiful sloper-arete to slab up with your left hand...with your right you've got a painful, tiny crimps/crack

nice vertical climb on great holds...then a mental runout from the last bolt to the chains

2nd try...a short, bouldery route just about 8 metres high...still it's got beautiful moves on crimps, under-clings, slopers and a huge dyno to a pocket-jug to leave the roof :)

...and again...i love it :)

just one of my all-time favorites :)

my first 3 bolts in my life, thank's a lot urs for teaching me!!! nice, vertical warm-up-route at "La Cueva de Chipilin"/Cuarto y Medio Dinamo :)

nice little slab on the way down to INRI

climbing up the arch of the INRI-cave

really hard morpho-move on tiny crimps to another crimp...i probably tried this move a hundred times

6b for the sit-start is really hard...

hard moves on crimps plus a crux-move to catch the sloppy edge of the boulder

easy funny mantle

nice slab

hard moves at the beginning and a funny mantle

easy start with from crimps to jug then the hard mantle at the left side

nice line along a juggy crack

first you climb through a overhango on some good slopers, then a nice move to the edge and catch a crimp for mantle

funny wall with good holds

overhanging boulder with good holds

hard boulder for the grade up the arete on "toit du cul de chien"

funny little problem, like always with a hard mantle

just an all-time-classic...strange move with a heel-hook to reach from 2-finger-pocket to 3-finger-pocket on the edge of the roof, the DYYYYNO :)

awesome arete

hard first move to a sidepull, putting your feet up high and climb up the elephant

nice route up the elephant (nr.2 black) using slopers with your right hand and sideholds with your left

nice little mantle-problem

perfect route up the "lépreux"...using an undercling to reach some slopers

hard dead-point-move to reach a bad side-crimps, then unstable hook to finish it up on jugs

climbing up some nice cracks

big move to a sloper, then a good hook to mantle up

good roof with beautiful pockets and some crimps to mantle up

nice overhanging prow with compression-moves on slopers and crimps

nice sit-start from a good hold to bad slopers, then hook and finish through a crack/pinch

nice little roof with crimps and pockets

same start like "uga-aga-iga" but then you make a big move to the undercling of "t-61" and traverse right to the start of "swing".

crazy deep sit-start with an akeward hook which makes posible all the movements

nice boulder at the right side of the small cave...nice movements with crimps, hooks and a crazy 2-finger-pocket at the end...my first boulder at Fickerplatzl :)

nice horizontal roof with good big moves on nice holds

chingónnn, just an amazing route...my mexican project at my 4th session in "la cueva" finally came to an end!!! first you start through a funny overhang with beautiful sustained moves for the first 4 quickdraws trying not to get pumped...and then starts the crux-section for the next 2 quick-draw with some huge horizontal movements where you have to keep it together and make all kind of wired hooks, finally at the end you have to push really hard along a steep crack up to the chains, screaming included :)

niiiice overhanging prow at the Pumita...you sit-start with a flake and get an undercling, then reachy move to a bad crimp, toe-hook on the starting-flake, matching another crimp...then getting ready for a dyno to another crimp followed by another dyno & a campus-move...(actually i don't know name or grade, it's just my guess)...however a great boulder, nice gym-style :)

one of the most beautiful pocket-routes!!! long and sustained, really fun!!!

nice little slab for warm-up...jaja route no.1 in the guide-book

nice little overhang at the start, then nice slab-climbing and a technical finish up to the chains (with quite bad rock, so cat-mode!!!)

great start with huge jugs...then the crux along a crimp-rail and some pockets

my test-peace-traverse at the boulder-wall of C.U....absolutely defined, hard stuff for me because really long, technical and pumpy until the end!!! jaja, so mayby a dumb-first-ascent ;)

sharp crimps up a steep wall

the same like "abuelo", just sharper crimps :)

nice roof-climbing on great holds with a technical finish up a awesome prow

nice warm-up in the morning at 8 o'clock

easy traverse on great holds with pumpy finish straight up in the center of the boulder...next time psyched for "RPG" V7

nice corner for warm-up

nice arete with a bad crimp for your right-hand and a high heel-hook to catch the lip of the boulder

my first boulder at Peña de Bernal...nice technical high-ball slab for warm-up...though it's quite scary without crash-pad

funny little roof with a nice cross-move with a heel-hook...the place where i slept one night ;)

perfect slightly overhanging wall with nice crimps and a reachy crux-move...would hurt quite a lot if you fall there

nice short route at the entrance of "the cave"...technical climbing on crimps and pocket with the crux right before the chains...2nd try (however i have to confess that i grapped the chains for clipping)...

same start like "el chaneque" but easier finish

soloing a nice chimney to get on the top of the spire (el pilar)...niiice view of the Peñas de Dexcani from above :)

one of the BEST routes in Jilo...4th try...starts with a cool V3-boulder to the first quick-draw, followed by a no-hand-rest on a ledge. then you climb up a steep, slightly overhanging dark wall with nobs until you get to a huge rail (actually this is a huuuge embedded pebble). from here starts the crux (aprox. a V4-boulder) where you have to crimp hard, put your foot up high and continiue crimping up to the next good rail. then just keeping it together with awesome slab-climbing on nobs to the chains...a masterpiece (i would give more than 3 stars)...now syced for "El Nahual"!!!

in the center of the traverse-wall...you start in the little roof, climb to the arete and then go left up the really small crimps

the easier variation to climb both roofs...got a little bit harder because of a broken hold

nice little variation through the centrer of the roof, without using the big jug...from an under-cling you reach a crimps, then feet up high + a toe-hook, match another crimp and take off for a dyno to the edge...then a strange mantle for the direct exit

my warmup at c.u....dinaaaamico :) again you match the biiiig jug & then directly a dyno with your right hand to on of the crimps...then campus and mantle

my warm-up at c.u....taaan bueno...ya lo hize mil veces :) a classic on c.u...you match the jug, put your foot on the wall and pump up to a great pocket...then dyno or whatever to mantle up....

THE line at 1° Dinamo, an amazing route through the big roof...little bouldery start with a tricky mantle, then a good rest before you climb up a roof-crack and finish with some great big movements to the chains...2nd go, could have flashed it without 2 weeks of pause before, haha ;)

perfect short boulder-route...easy overhanging- climbing up the first 3 quick-draws and then starts the action: cross to a good crimp and match another crimp with you left hand, move your foots up high and make a heel-hook in a hole, then a big move with your right to a bad crimp, match a 2-finger-side-crimp with your left hand, remove the hook and make a short dead-point move with right to the good crimp, then clip the 4th quick-draw and just keeping it together to the top :) unfortunately the first 2 bolt are very bad (never felt there, but i'm gonna change them), but the 3rd bolt where you have your whippers is ok!

nice little warm-up route at this impressive huge cave...now psyched for "Trauma" 5.13a

first you climb a slam roof with a finger-crack, then easily up to an awesome steep hand-crack...but if you don't carry the correct gear you have to change left and climb a horrible chimney up to the anker :)

nice long trad-route, actually did the first 2 pitches together...first pitch you climb a perfect paralello-hand-crack to a platform...then follow a finger-crack which you can climb like a chimney with the help of a big flake...then another platform and you fight up the last metres through an anyoning off-width :)

the line which first catches the eye at Primer Dinamo...a big roof with nice movements on good holds...haha, unfortunately just 2nd go...had a big fail at my flash-try falling just under the anker, getting pumped & not seeing anything because of the sun)...100% kremstal-style ;)

scary start...then a bit of endurance at the slab

quite hard boulder up the first bolt...then following up the crack is just a dream...did it 2 times :)

nice little route with a funny boulder-start and another little overhang below the anker

nice complicated start up the first 3 quick-draws...then relaxed climbing

2nd try...technical steep slab-climbing with great crimps

2nd try...nice technical slab with bad crimps and a dynmic move

2nd try...the roof some metres to the right of "Valientes"...some funny moves up a corner-crack followed by some campusing along the roof :)

nice little route with a funny crux at the beginning...some metres left of "Valientes"

my creation at the boulder-wall on c.u., mayby a FA... CHINGÒNNNNNNN!!! check out the vid: https://vimeo.com/52882378

nice long route on great conglomerate-rock with funny holds & good rests

2nd try, nearly could have done an on-sight. incredible vertical-slightly overhanging route with sharp crimps

boulder-start to the first quick-draw followed by technical slab-climbing

the left variation of this beautiful roof...pretty much the same difficulty like the right-one & equally beautiful

another go on this incredible short-route

crazy route...25 metres through overhanging stalactites. had a really good on-sight-go to the last quick-draw, but sent it the next day easily :)

the only vertical and easy route at "La Chonta"...fine crux at beginning on slopers followed by a really long route

another nice doble-crack

great route with some metre on a fingercrack

tecnical start on a slab (not easy to protect) followed by crack & chimney climbing

nice crack climbing and a really long pitch...we had to improvise the rappel with our 50m-rope to gain the ground

great route on the sportclimbing-wall of C.U. some really hard moves up to a jug followed by easy but high moves to gain the top of the cliff (aprox. 10 metres)

long route up a slab

nice route on a exposed pillar

don't know the name of the route yet. nice slap with perfect crimps & pockets, at the crux you have to pull on a one-finger-pocket :)

don't know the name of the route yet. nice technical slab to gain a beautiful corner...

just an awesome route through an impressive roof...easy start, then with an undercling and a sloper you catch the edge of the roof and make some (campus)-moves to the top...really boulder-like & looks much harder than the grade :)

easy warm-up, my first climb at beautiful zigeunerloch...failed later trying to flash "mini-cooper" during rain ;)

horrible morpho-move, really started to hate this move...used a bad, but closer crimp to make it, thus a good end of the trip finally :)

great traverse at Sundergrund

beautiful arete on the "moonwalk-boulder"...did it to avoid frustration after "moonwalk" ;)

strange dyno (?)

cool warm-up

beautiful arete

nice compression moves up the arete...some wet holds ;)

strange but funny boulder...did it with a dyno (cheating?)

beautiful & scary (if you do it alone with one small crashpad) arete right beside the river

though mantle

athletic moves at the start followed by a scary mantle

nice long route (30m) with many many cracks up the "Wig"...clean climbing again :)

nice paralello-crack climbed with 2 friends...unfortunately bolted & just 10m high ;)

perfect line on perfect bloc

beautiful slab at Klausenalm...felt like the Flexmäuerchen in an alpine setting ;)

straight-up on crimps

great line with a technical traverse and a final dyno

beautiful & high arete with sustainted moves...on the same bloc like "Auge des Waldes"

nice line on jugs

easy warm-up

up on a slopy arete with a final move

nice traverse with high mantle

the right arete on the bloc "fix und foxi"

some moves to get to a sloper-traverse, then funny mantle

small arete...climbed in the dark ;)

funny boulder with juuugs. at blocco 4 "Elettronvolt" at sector Melloblocco

2nd try. beautiful line up a good crack. at "Masso dell'Entalpia" at sector Tarzan

the huge, beautiful arete at "Masso della Grotta" in sector Propietà Privata. Did the standstart and got really close at the sitstart (hard 7a)

straight-up line on crimps at "Masso della Grotta". the sit start is 8a.

slab with mantle at blocco 4 "Elettronvolt" at sector Melloblocco

my absolute favorite at Val Masino. at "Masso dell'Entalpia" at sector Tarzan

overhanging arete with slopers and a complicated mantle at blocco 2 "Ul Mustru" at sector Il Mostro/Val di Mello

funny little boulder near the river at sector Visido

great line with flake, crimp & slopers at Sasso Piatto (Parkplatzblock) at sector Remenno

just my favorite dyno in the world

again pooockets

tall moves on good pockets

nice long route up a flake + pockets ;)

long route on pockets

long steep route on pockets

nice wall with pooockets

nice technical wall at (what we call) "Dunkle Seite"...start on slopers, take the sideslopers, make a kneebar and stand up on bad side-crimps, then catch the good holds in the little roof and do the scary mantle...

through a cave and mantle on a mossy high slab...on the boulder with the huge arete at "Dunkle Seite"

strange mantle at the strange bloc opposite off the "Ufo-Boulder"

already climbed it years ago, nice line through a small roof.

really nice boulder with good holds

Standstart. hard technical climbing, the sitstart (6c+) felt much much harder

huge moves on good holds...failed a few times on the last move & got very angry, ugly rainy day ;)

nice overhang with bleau-like holds and a dyno...don't know if i climbed the boulder correctly, it felt quite easy

the boulder left of "Jonny Hill"...really really sharp holds but good climb though

a classic!!! supposed to be the 1st boulder on Straßenblock...nice moves with heel-hook followed by a dyno

beautiful sustainted route with amazing rock...

nice & short route...using the new rope for the first time

cool moves on painful holds :)

nice arete...next time the dyno-problem to the left

nice slab

nice traverse at "Straßenblock" with a final crimpy boulder :)

not really a boulder which everyone should do as a warm-up like the name suggest ;) painfull holds but good moves though. Yeah, my first boulder @ Waldstein!!!

nice hooking-moves on sloper and pocket

cool bloc on the way to "Tierra Media"...just had to make a FA to honor my delicious meal from the day before ;)

last boulder of the trip...nice first moves and sandy top-out

dead-point moves on painful crimps

cool moves up the prow followed by a though mantle...my hardest top-out at the trip

three time beating the slopers followed by a funny dyno

soft or just my style? first move to an undercling, then with a heel-hook to a bad crimp and quickly to the better sidehold...thanks for the beta Tom...my first 7b flash :)

nice dyno & hard mantle...at the "murciélago-roof"

great moves through a roof followed by sandy, but beautiful prow...2nd try

nice warm-up

nice moves from to a sloper and then to bad crimps

great dyno!!!

the combination of "Arco Iris" & "Cristal"...quite an endurance problem for me...at the first 2 tries i failed at the very last move, then finally did it in the dark

nice line through a roof with the same funny finish like "Arco Iris"

nice highball on crimps

hiking up on magnificant huge pockets with a quite high mantle at the end

felt more like 6a ;)

nice dyno

endurance!!! had to fight hard at the flash-go, wouldn't have tried it again ;)

on crimps through the overhang, then the same finish like "Software"

easier version on the "Parking-Block"

nice little roof, the little brother of "el varano" ;) ...2nd try

easy warm-up...didn't do a figure-four

5c mantle on a crocodile...the best mantle in the world, so much fun!!!

warm-up with a freezy mantle ;)

esthetic line around "Techos Don Pepe"

had to really fight hard at the mantle...did it finally in the dark :)

warm-up...hard for the grade ;)

warm-up

warm-up

warm-up...the guide-book says it's 5b which is imho correct

nice warm-up through an overhang

cool start with a dead-point on a sharp incut crimp

great roof with lots off pockets & crimps plus a dyno at the end

second move on a nice 2-finger-pocket, the blocker to a bad crimp and dyno to the edge...my first 7a+ flash, really my style :)

nice technical start through the roof, then heel-hook and jugs, jugs, jugs :)

good pockets and a hook to start, dead-point on a crimps and blocker to another even worse crimps, then dyno & scary, snowy top-out...1st 7b of the trip :)

heel-hook and move to a bad hold, match it and dyno the a perfect pocket

technical start through the roof, then campus-moves on good incut-crimps

huge moves on good holds with a slopy mantle at the end...2nd try

nice line along the edge of a nice roof, had a snowy mantle at the end...muy friiio ;)

nice warm-up with pockets, crimps & sloper...it's hard to find such a beautiful 6a

little easy roof....quite nice though

nice little problem (probabely established by Niki & me) at the wall behind "Teil einer Jugendbewegung"...did it 1st try this day

the nice overhanging arete at the entrance of "Steinener Saal"

nice bloc on the way down to "Steinener Saal"

Yeah, finally did it!!! THE line on "Sonnendeck-Boulder" following up the obvious thin crack to a sloper (4 moves), than with a finger-lock to a crimp + the insecure mantle :-) "Excellent, brilliant, superb..."

good overhang...all you need: an undercling-sloper, nice crimps, heel-hooks and a funny mantle with deep cracks ;)

good line...we found a solution with a really high heel-hook which made it much easier ;) next time the sitstart (7c+)!!!

some metres to the right from "Los Gnomos", don't know the name & grade...technical wall climbing on under-clings up to an arete...from there a scary (a moving bolt) & pumpy (overhanging with heel-hooking-action) traverse to the top...

nice route!!! hard wall-climbing up to the 4th quick-draw...then easy metres to the top on really bizzare rock :)

funny, short roofcrack, which you protect with 2-3 friends...looked much harder than it was :)

just was hiking around in the Sierra when i found these great boulders with no trace of former climbing...looked at most appealing line, the overhanging arete on the big boulder...cleaned it a bit and climbed it :)

a great line directely through the overhang of the big block...took me some time to understand the move and to have the ball to make the upper part (had no crashpad)

da funny little problem which i created at the traverse-wall of "Los Techos"...propabley a FA

yeah finally, such a pure line!!! hot day but good grip though :) hard moves on small crimps, quite painful...

don't know about the name or grade, but a really nice esthetic line. sit-start under the roof and some moves on crimps to the edge, traverse it and do the mantle, which is definitely the crux

don't know about the name & grade...great line with the most amazing incut-crimps :)

perfect line on the perfect "hidden" bloc "Afrikadachl"!!! ...following the obvious overhanging arete which then becomes more vertical & easier :)

pumpy moves on slopy holds, for me harder than "Verschneidung"...

good line on "Straßenblock"...just 2-3 hard moves, but took me some time to finally send it...

really nice boulder thought the overhanging corner...first move is the crux, followed by the best drop-knee-move i know ;)

just a unspectacular warm-up-route, at least a flash ;)

actually a traverse on crimps from left to right, then a slopy top-out (crux)

pockets and more pockets ;)

great line up a blue sinter

funny, but wet

nice technical boulder on the left side of the "Aufwärmwandl"

painful hold after the first move, then lovely slopers and a technical mantle

just unique!!! nice roof-crack which you can climb with three hand-jams or you cheat by taking a hidden crimp...tricky, high mantle at the end

the central slab at "blocco 2" (masso della luna)

awesome boulder!!! high arete with the crux at the end

the obvious line at "blocco 3"

the right slab up a huge highball at blocco 1 (masso del sole)

great diagonal crack on the backside of Sasso de Remenno

overhanging dihedral with a finger-crack...amazing boulder!!!

6a+/~410m/10 pitches -- really nice alpine-route at "Dimore degli Dei" wall. climbed it together with Ben & led all the pitches...Pitch 2 is already the crux-pitch (7-/40m) and at pitch 3 you have an endless beautiful crack (6+/40m)...then you follow up a huge corner, make a slab-traverse before you climb the exposed last pitches

Spettacolare!!! Just one move, a huge dyno from two crimps to the edge of the boulder! On the back of the "Propietá-Privata-Boulder"

nice boulder, you can make a huge top-out on the bloc, saw a snake up there ;)

second go, the 1st move is the crux...did it 3 times this day, my style ;)

nice slopy traverse with mantle at the end

3 pitches, 90m, 6b+ THE eyecatcher on "Sergent-Wall", 3 pitches of desperately off-width climbing on a huge left-winding crack ;) ...climbed it together with Strong-Tom, on-sighted all the pitches & led no. 1 & no. 3. Pitch 1 is a good warm-up with a no-hand-position in the middle. Pitch 2 starting with a though vertical corner, followed by traversing the left-winding off-width. At pitch 3 you climb up vertical again and then squeeze inside the crack when it starts again to go left to the abseil-platform.

great pitch along a superb parallelo-crack

the best line at "Block U" taking the obvious way in the middle of the cave

nice traverse on the small bloc between Sonnendeck & Totenkopf

after years and years of trying i finally sticked the dyno after climbing the starting moves...

THE kingline on the bloc! http://www.vimeo.com/22103757

15 pitches, 450m, E.D. Inf. climbed free ;) THE route on the Jebel Rum East Face which catches the eye, great & epic!!! hard cracks, corners & off-widths at the beginning of the centre-wall. Originally parts were climbed with aid, especially pitch 5 (6c) is really serious with poor protection when climbed free. Niki, Peter & me climbed it together, i red-pointed all the pitches + led no. 5 (the serious crux-pitch), 6, 12 & 13 :) The middlepart is scary too with slabs, poor protection & loose rock. The headwall is climbed by winding left to the "Fire-Exit-Chimneys", where you're just very deep inside Jebel Rum ;) Then you get out of it and can look down throught the "Eye of Allah", where originally starts the abseiling. we then had a scary abseiling through the night and unknown terrain :)

great direct line on crimps with a slopy mantle

the first line on our deserted granit-bloc ;) looked harder than it was...Niki did the FA!

6b/~350m/7-8 pitches (4/6a/6b/6a/6a/6b/6a/4) "If you like crack-climbing, do Lionheart!" (some Czech-climbers) ...great line along some crack & corner-systems up the Abu Aina Towers, really sustainted and hard for the grade... climbed it together with Niki & Peter, onsighted all the pitches & led no. 1, 2 & 3. In Pitch 1 & 2 (4 & 6a) you climb up a good chimney and you can do them in one pitch. Pitch 3 (6b/~45m) is a kingline, first you have great finger-locks up a crack in a corner, then climb up chimney (where you can stay until the end of the pitch) and then change to a really exposed arete. I think the best pitch i've ever led. Pitch 4 (6a) has a slightly overhanging wide crack (camelot no.4) which seemed much harder than 6a for me and then a slab. Pitch 5 (6a) is just an endless corner with perfect jams to get at another chimney at pitch 6 (6b) from where you finallely traverse to the headwall for exposed slab-climbing at pitch 7 (6a) and an easy last pitch (4) to gain the top of the Abu-Aina-Towers... Just an awesome route!!!

6a/~100m/3 pitches (5/5+/6a) a really nice line which we found when we were soloing "Sabbah's Route" to get to the South Summit of Jebel Khush Khashah. We came back the next day & just tried to climb it. Pitch 1 (5) is a dirty off-width & chimney, pitch 2 (5+) goes up a scary vertical mushroom-wall, so there's a lot off loose rock and bad protection. Then you make stance in a little cave from where you start for pitch 3 (6a), an amazing blank corner with a parallel crack with lots off good hand & fist jams. Climbed it together with Niki, we onsighted all the pitches, he led no. 1 & 3, i led no. 2.

6a+/~150m/5 pitches (5+/6a/6a+/5+/5) incredible steep crack-line with perfect protection and lots off face-holds. Climbed it together with Madhou (who led his first trad-lead) & led all the pitches except pitch 1.

5/~100m/3 pitches (?) an obvious climb up the Arche Tower from the Remy-brothers, so it's adventureous & scary ;) we just climbed the first pitch (5/corner) but then didn't know how to continue...the abseil was confusing & dangerous too ;)

6c/~100m/3 pitches (6a+/6c/6a) a HUGE corner at Jebel Kharazeh...sustainted & pumpy climbing at pitch 1 to a good ledge. Pitch 2 (6c/35-40m) goes up further the corner but the crack is really fine & the walls are blank. Climbed it together with Peter & Madhou but didn't red-point pitch 2, where i had a huge 8-metres-whipper only held by a 0.3 camelot ;)

6b/~180m/5 pitches (5+/6b/5/5-/6a+) 5 fine pitches at the Jebel Rum East Face, pitch 2 (6b/crack with the crux at the end) and pitch 5 (6a+/up a fine flake) are the best... climbed it together with Peter & Madhou (his first trad-route), on-sighted all the pitches & led no. 2,3 & 4.

6a/~200m/5 pitches The name says it all!!! just a unique route up the west-face of Jebel um Ejil. Climbed it together with Peter & led pitch no. 1, 3 & 5. At pitch 5 (incredible off-width) you normally get nice afternoon-sun and the following two pitches (4+ & 2/3) to the top you can easily solo ;)

5c/~120m/3 or 4 pitches really nice warm-up route on Jebel Rum east-face to get used to the rock & the style of climbing... climbed it together with Peter and led pitch no. 2 (5c/40m) where you climb up a fine corner and than change to a nice finger-crack and follow this to a platform. That's the "Goldfinger"--> great pitch!!!

funny arete...worked really easy :)

nice roof with a hard finish...in da snow :)

4/~350m/free-solo -- impressive experience...great long route up a logical crack-system...did it two times free-solo, the first time in about 40 min., the second time in about 30 min.