Saxon Goold

First 8A. Took over 12 sessions. Pretty different beta from what I've seen before with first move left hand, and a backflag press into the foot chip going to undercling (will post a vid in the future).

One of the island classics!

Fun one.

Enjoyed this way more than I thought I would.

Show me a v5 climber who can do that first move...

Pretty sharp down low doing a bit of a piano match. The crux is still the last move but coming into it more tired definitely feels a grade harder to me.

Placed a foot out left to do the first right hand bump (skipping the compressiony heal).

right foot slipped first move first go. Changed to a heel and climbed it on the second. good problem.

Should be a classic! As fun and technical (if not more) as Fat Cat at Fruberget.

Fun. right hand on lowest crimp.

Left hand on lowest part of sidepull. Right on lowest crimp. First move was a bump up the sidepull.

Took me quite a while and really learnt a lot on this one. Done without the Borat crimp as seems the ethic here (bit of a weird eliminate. Does add difficulty).

poor line

Really good one for the grade! I recommend a bit more of a brush at the top.

This is China Star in the guidebook. FA Lorenz Ulmer I believe. Was a battle for me. Kinda fun, kinda frustrating.

Really nice climb. Deserves more love. ...Personally I think it's really hard for the grade.

Right knee pad

definitely not a classic bit still kinda fun

Thumb press push off into starting hold.

not 7b.. but fun though.

Starting with right hand just right of where the rail ends and left just left of that. No hands or heels over the lip and it's a hard 7a for me.. and kind of fun.

left hand on bad crimp.

anchor has been removed and not replaced. Can however lower down from anchor to the right with a bit of difficulty.

Left hand jug, right hand marked pinch-thing.

The 'soft (high) start'. The hard low version's not very logical to me.. but you have to be dreaming if you think the start with the right jug is 7a.

Obviously, you need to stay low below the lip. Kind of fun. 7a isn't unreasonable.

a good one!

Surprisingly good problem.. Not really morpho just a jump.

Interesting problem. Could use some cleaning.

crumbly and not fun.

actually an alright climb.. I don't think it's a giveaway at that grade.

Definitely worth a try.

Interesting, fun climbing. Definitely worth climbing.