Description

On the south side of Brač island, not far from the well-known monastery Pustinja Blaca, lays one of the most impressive rock faces in Croatia. The huge overhanging amphitheatre that reaches height of 80 meters has been considered as a potential top climbing destination for a long time. Finally, at the end of the 2015, a group of French climbers bolted the first routes here. Almost all routes are in the class of premium climbs that require a great endurance. Some of them are 50 meters long. Most routes follow tufas and they are hard. There is low range of opportunities to outfit easier routes; therefore this climbing site will be attractive only for better, well trained climbers. The ambient is superb, with a view towards the sea and the neighbouring islands. The great advance of this climbing site is northern exposition, a rare one in Dalmatia. The wall is in shade for almost a whole day; therefore climbing here can be combined with the classic Dalmatian summer vacations.
Accommodation: A vast offer of lodges and camps on the island (Brač Touristic Board: http://www.bracinfo.com/hr/). Best option for logistical support and organization of accommodation is to contact the agency Aldura sport from Sutivan (http://www.aldura-sport.hr/).

History

This cliff was bolted in 2015 by French climbers of the FFCAM excellence group accompanied by Croatian climber and bolter Boris Čujić and Austrian climber Heinz Lechner.

Smrka

The area is access sensitive!

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From Nerežišća head to Bol ( D113 road) for some 3.5 km to branching for Vidova gora. Turn right to Vidova gora (D6191) and continue to the next road branching where signposts direct you to Vidova gora or to Farska and Pustinja Blaca monastery. Continue on paved road towards Farska until reaching a spot where the right unpaved side road leads to Pustinja Blaca. Turn to the unpaved road on the right, pass by the parking lot that serves as the starting point to the monastery (to avoid problems with land owners, we strongly appeal to park your car here and continue on foot) and continue until the first road branching to the right. Turn right for a few hundred meters to a widening.
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Park the car and continue on foot on the marked trail that leads to the top of the crag. Descent to the bottom of the crag (small amount of down climbing) is from the right corner when looking down the crag.

PROBABLY THERE ARE SOME CURRENT PROBLEMS WITH ACCES ( WITH LAND OWNERS) ! WE ADVISE YOU TO BE CAREFUL ! WE WILL TRY TO GET RIGHT INFORMATIONS ASAP !!!