Description

Sector Huvudväggen:
The quality of this 10-15 meter high crag is sometimes excellent. A concentrated number of bolted medium-difficult climbs and a clean-cut dihedral (own gear) can contribute to a fun-filled visit. The face is with some exceptions just below vertical, and a refined footwork is therefore more important than large biceps. If this crag was not located so close to Huddingevägen it would be much more popular. In terms of climbing it's well worth a visit and if you go here in the morning it can be quite warm in the sun, and in the afternoon you can enjoy some cool climbing in the shadow on hot summer days. The bolting is quite ok although maybe not top-notch standard. Excellent access as the parking is located just 30 meters from the main wall.
Sometimes the ground is filled with sand or soil below the right part of the wall, but it is usually removed fairly quickly.

Sector Pytteväggen:
This is a small nice slightly overhanging wall located 40 meters to the left of the main wall, clearly visible down from the road. Nice rock quality, but there is some moss in this sector.

Environment:
East Northeast. Open location. Sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon/evening. Suburban surroundings with some kind of gravel storage by the wall. Huddingevägen is 60 meters away and sounds quite loud.

History

Pretty typical history for the Stockholm climbing area on this crag with a few routes made along a couple of obvious lines in 1989 by some of the most prominent climbers at the time in Stockholm (Niklas Björnerstedt, Lars Grankvist and Jan Liliemark) and then followed by Johan Luhr many years later with the machine in full swing.

Here was also one of Stockholm's most difficult boulder problems made by Mikael Meyer in 2002 (East). The boulder was graded 8b and became much talked about in Stockholm. Subsequently, the boulder was downgraded to 7c+. A few years later, however, the ground below the wall was filled with soil and almost the entire boulderwall disappeared. Here is a link to the buried boulder: https://27crags.com/crags/flemingsberg-boulder/topos/wall-8070