Despite their proximity to some of the oldest and best known boulders in the New River Gorge region at Cotton Top, Cotton Bottom and Hawks Nest Dam, this nearly roadside area did not gain heavy traffic until the 2022-2023 season. The Family Hour Roof is a phenomenal addition with numerous but logical link-ups that provide days of climbing potential. The roof is not the only worthy attraction -- the free standing boulders further up stream are mostly of excellent rock quality along a pleasant river setting. This area tends to be warm, often snow free when nearby, gorge-top sectors are blanketed. Check the water level before you go, the Family Hour roof needs water levels below about 9 feet.
🔴This area is somewhat water level dependent. Family Hour Roof becomes unclimbable above about 9ft. "Old God's of Appalachia" requires minimum flow of about 4.5 ft. The Bank Boulders also need water levels close to minimum flow. Check the water levels at https://waterdata.usgs.gov/monitoring-location/380649081083301/
🚶♂️ Approach summary - Somewhat rugged. 5 to 8 minutes over riverside talus.
💎 Notable problems - High Yield Savings v2, Teller v3, Broken Wing v5, Choncici Right v6, Close To Home v7, Old God's Of Appalachia v7, Gift Wrapped v7, Choncici v8, Far From Home v9, Midnight Gospel v10
💧 Dry time - Half to 2 days. "Far From Home" tends to seep and benefits from low humidity weather.
🍂❄️🍃 Seasonal Beta - Best fall to spring, it is warm on the river in the summer and the area is riddled with poison ivy when the leaves are out.
🌊 Water Level Beta - See above!
🚗 Drive from downtown Fayetteville - 10 minutes
🚗 Drive from Summersville - 35 minutes
🚽 Bathrooms - None currently. Possible installation of pit toilets in the parking eventually.
📶 Cell phone service - 3/5, variable.
🐶 Dogs - Are allowed. Consider keeping your dog leashed as this area is frequented by non-climbers.
