No special access issues
No special access issues, but the crag lies in the Peak District National Park and the usual rules apply. Also, during spring, Peregrine Falcons often use the crag as a nesting site, resulting in temporary access restrictions for part, or the whole of, the cliff. When this occurs signboards are placed on the approach paths and the information also appears on the BMC website (www.thebmc.co.uk/nesting-birds-advice-for-climbers). Please adhere rigidly to these restrictions if and when in place.
Approach: Turn off the A53 Leek-to-Buxton road into Upper Hulme, approximately 5km north of Leek. Follow the narrow road through the village and continue driving to reach the second of two lay-bys, approximately 250m beyond the Roaches Tea Rooms. Parking anywhere but in the designated areas runs the risk of a fine (though this doesn’t seem to deter some folk). Walk back down the road (towards Upper Hulme) for 30m then turn left onto an unmetalled track leading to the Roaches Campground (signposted). Follow this for some 170m to just past the first bend then head straight up the steep hillside towards the crag using a narrow but well-marked path (10 minutes). The far left-hand and far right-hand sides of the crag, both set at slightly higher levels, require a few minutes more effort. If the parking bays are full, the field next to the Tea House admits cars and charges £2 for a full day.