Juval

🚶‍♂️ 5-10' - ⛰️ 550+ MSL - 🧭 NE / SE / S - ☀️ sectors outside the canyon are sunny, others more shady

Juval is a large crag nestled in the heart of Val Venosta, set against the backdrop of the Juval castle, owned by the legendary alpinist Reinhold Messner. This sector is situated at the end of a canyon carved by the powerful rivers that flow from the glaciers of Val Senales.
The crag boasts over 140 climbing lines, suiting climbers of all skill levels. Whether you are a beginner or an advanced climber, you’ll find routes ranging from grade 3 to 8b. Climbing here is known for its technical challenges, with routes that demand both good use of the feet and reading skills. From smooth slabs to dihedrals, from narrow cracks to exciting overhangs and small roofs, Juval offers a wide variety of climbing styles. The rock, composed of compact gneiss, provides solid and reliable holds.
Since Juval is a popular climbing destination in theSouth Tyrol, some routes may be a bit polished, but they are still enjoyable. The "Il sasso" sector may have some moss growth on the routes, so it could be a great place for a dedicated climber with a love for brushing holds to make a positive contribution to the community.
The base for climbing at Juval is comfortable, with small beaches located on the riverbanks. The approach to the climbing areas is pleasantly short and straightforward. Along the path leading to more distant sectors, there are some fixed ropes to assist you. The equipment in Juval is generally well-maintained and safe, ensuring a secure climbing experience.
Summer is a good period to climb in Juval. Some sectors have a North-East exposition and the river's cooling influence keeps temperatures comfortable even on the hottest days. If the Northern sectors are too chilly, you can explore the East and South-East-facing walls, which receive morning sun and provide warmer conditions.
We highly recommend wearing a helmet at all times while climbing in here.

Juval is not just about climbing. A visit to the Juval castle is a must, where you can explore a fascinating mountain museum filled with alpine memorabilia. Near the castle, you can discover the enchanting sloping vineyards of the close farms and relish the flavors of the region at some good restaurants, known for their typical dishes. Additionally, the charming town of Merano, with its renowned spa, is nearby, making it an excellent retreat for rest days and relaxation.

Perched atop a prehistoric site in South Tyrol, Juval Castle stands as a testament to the enduring allure of mountains. Built in 1278 by Hugo von Montalban, the castle has undergone many vicissitudes over the centuries. But in 1983, it was purchased and restored by Reinhold Messner, the world-renowned mountaineer. Today, Juval Castle houses a museum dedicated to the "myth" of the mountain.
The museum's collection is a fascinating blend of art, artifacts, and personal memorabilia. Visitors can admire paintings of the world's great sacred mountains, marvel at a collection of Tibetan relics and masks, and explore the Tantra room. In the basement, Reinhold Messner's mountaineering equipment is on display, offering a glimpse into the challenges and triumphs of his epic expeditions.
Juval Castle is a must-visit for anyone interested in mountains, mountaineering, or the intersection of art and culture. It is a place where the past and present collide, and where the power and mystery of mountains are brought to life.