Description

Louhos, Quarry. Quite unique setting in the middle of the town of Kuusankoski. Still the crag is hidden spot, quiet despite of the surroundings. Rock is granite, quarried along natural weaknesses. All routes are bolted, even the cracks. After all it is a quarry. Some places the nature of the rock is loose, even inside of the cracks wich makes the safest looking traditional protection questionable and dangerous.

You can find aretes, face climbs and few cracks have enough variety to pick your favorite style. Grades varies from easy beginner leads to upper 7s. The key is technical footwork on small footholds! Just to mention few of the many good lines are Porari, Louhoksen Lordit, Crazy Cavan and eye catching test piece Matchbox being true gem of the crag!

History

Quarry is dated back before WW2, more likely early last century. That makes some rock faces looking almost natural. There are also caves near left slab. They were used 1940 to manufacture ammunition for the war. Cave entrances are now closed permanently. Do not try to make your way in past the piles of soil and rock!

Climbing in Louhos started in the beginning of the millenium. Peruskulma was the 1st route of the crag. At the time bolts were few and there were no anchors on the top. All the early routes were climbed till the top! Since then more bolts and anchors were added making spicy old skool sport routes safer.