Description

Miilunkankare is a splendid crag for many reasons. A good selection of both sport and trad routes with easy access and a short approach makes it an enjoyable place for climbers. There are routes suitable for both beginners and more experienced climbers and the area around the crag is family friendly. There are lots of anchors for ease of use and safe toproping.

Some routes to the right take some time to dry after rain while some dries quicker being more exposed to sun and wind. A crashpad is a good idea on a few routes as they have somewhat tricky starts and not all trad routes are easy to protect.

Some highlights among the routes are Taivaanjaara (the main line of the crag), Havoc Mind and Self-Revolution. Havoc Mind requires a mental all-in effort while Self-Revolution is a challenging one to solve but very satisfying when you finally get it right. For beginner trad-climbers we recommend trying out Taivastikkaat and Apina Colada!

History

The crag was found in 2018 by Perttu Ollila. Because of access issues, we had to wait a while before developing the area for climbing. There is no official name for the crag on any map but according to the land owner the area is called "Miilunkankare". Miilu is the finnish word for tar pit, used in the making of wood-tar, and kankare translates to hillock.