Paarl Rocks - Climbing & Bouldering

With the compilation and release of the first comprehensive Paarl Rocks guide in 2006 we (Scott & Stewart Noy) had expected not many updates would be required. However that was quite obviously not the case! The amount of new routes that have been established since the release of the first guide is encouraging; a mixture of single and multi-pitch, trad and sport, have been established, many of them two and three star lines. Who knew there were so many left, it seems the old grey slabs have a few cards yet left to play. Indeed, while there have been many new lines opened there still remains opportunities for more, especially steep harder lines.

Paarl holds a special dynamic. Something old; something wild; something hidden; an element of the untamed. You can sense the long unspoken history that lives within the rocks, written on the sweeping granite slopes, found in hidden caves and alcoves, revealed only by the feint echoes across the giant slabs and quiet whispers amongst the aged trees.
This guide represents a mix of the old and new; the legend of The Grey Death lives on not only around the campfire stories of old, but in the brave new routes continuing to challenge the stoic grey walls.

The bouldering has added a new flavour to Paarl, with climbers until then only venturing onto the boulders nearby the routes. Niel Mostert was largely responsible for the establishment, seeing much potential and in 2008 began exploring and establishing the area, releasing three online guides. This drew in more climbers and many new problems were established creating what is now a really superb destination for a day out.

WALK-IN
Upper Parking
Follow the stairs up left for about 65m and you will find a climbers path on your right that will lead you to the Belly Button Slab, Splinter Area and Blue Diamonds Wall.
For the other areas follow the path from the parking into the forest and start of the boardwalk (from here you can easily access the Cable's Walk / Descent on your left). The path winds it's way down through the forest between Bretagne Rock (on your left) and Gordon's Rock (on your right) to the bottom, branching off either left or right depending on what you intend to climb. Once reaching the bottom moving right will take you past the Wasteland, Casualties of War and then North Wall around the corner. To reach the Nante's Dam Boulder, branch off from the path before going around to the North Wall, aiming for an area of flat rock (no bush) on the left and then down and left to reach the boulder on the left. It's called a boulder, but it's actually a flattish granite outcrop.

Lower & Bouldering Parking
The Illearth Boulder is found under the trees at the parking. For The Scream Boulder, initially follow the Bouldering path left and parallel with the Illearth Boulder and make your way first over flat rock (the summit of Paarl Rock) in a north-easterly direction toward the large boulder (the path marked in white splits off from the Bouldering Path). The Euro and Cannonfodder Wall path simply stays close to the wall moving down the bushy slope.
The Bouldering path heads left and parallel with the Illearth Boulder toward a plateau of initial boulders and then heads down the slope with boulders scattered widely. You can also park for free at the braai area at the bottom of the boulder field. You still need to be out of the braai area parking itself at closing time as a gate is closed. However if you park along side the road, you can extend your climbing time until late.

Rear Parking
Really easy. Just follow the path to the stunning Parklife Wall directly ahead. Access the wall by heading right at the base and finding a ramp that leads up left. For the Arbor Cave and Hidden By Day Wall just continue on down the hill from the ramp. The Cobalt Blue and Wonderland Walls are found by continuing left along the path once reaching the Parklife Wall.

DESCENTS
Gordon's Rock
Walk: The walk down is relatively quick and easy taking around 10 minutes. From the top of Gordon's Rock find a 'Tolkienesque Gully' hidden by a tree on the south-eastern side of the rock. Move down the gully and squeeze through a hole on the left further on, or lower via a thick rope (people sometimes unfortunately remove this rope when getting lost, so if it's missing you'll have to squeeze through the hole...). Scramble down the short recess, cross the wooded Splitter Gully to emerge on the large flat summit above the Belly Button slabs. Continue diagonally right heading down low angled slabs aiming for blocks and brush. Keep left of the blocks on the way down.
Abseil: This was not designed as abseil line and essentially uses the stances of existing routes. Facing the Sands of Time Wall, the abseil starts on the chains of Jovian Thunderbolts and continues down to it's next set of chains. There are many ways down from here but aiming left (facing the wall) for either The Outlaw Josie Wales or Hang 'em High's chains works well as there is another abseil point halfway up Hang 'em High which will get you to the ground. NOTE: A 60m rope is required for this abseil - always REMEMBER to tie knots in the end of your rope! If any of the stances look a little rusty, leave one of your carabiners behind for the abseil.

Bretagne Rock
Walk: Make your way to the top of the rock and trig beacon. From here simply follow the Cable's Route (walk) back down.

Paarl Rock
Walk: A short stroll to your car in a south-western direction.

Two Cents Slab
Walk: Scramble down either side of the granite slab to the road.

Gladde Rock
Walk: Upon summiting either (1) head rightward for approximately 3 minutes to reach a jeep track and make the long walk back down the road to your car, (2) scramble back down avoiding the slabs, or (3) preferably meet up with friends at the Upper Parking.
Abseil: You can abseil back down the route. Additional anchors have been placed between stances to facilitate an abseil using a single rope.

GRADING
For those using the Australian grading system for sport and trad climbs, simply add on one grade to sync up with South African grades.

GEAR
The maximum amount of quickdraws you will require is 26 (includes two needed for the chains) for Hang 'em High. For some of the trad climbs we have included what gear is necessary so that you can consult them before heading out.

WEATHER
Like most areas, autumn and spring are the best times for climbing. However one of the perks of climbing at Paarl Rocks is that a number of the routes dry fairly quickly after the rains. During the summer months it can get quite hot but you will always find one or two walls in the shade.
If we have left out the time period when when the sun hits that wall then that means that wall / area receives all day shade.
For up to date weather reports go to www.weather.co.za, or call 082-162.

CLIMBING INFORMATION
DANGER!
Some of the climbs contained in this guide are either dangerous and / or have long run-outs. Falls on certain routes could result in serious injury or worse. Please read and understand the Symbols below to make sure you understand what certain symbols mean, so that you do not attempt climbs beyond your abilities.

BOULDERING
Please note that some of the Map coordinates of the boulders are incorrect (the Z boulders for instance). This will get sorted out in due time, but most of the other boulders have the correct coordinates.
Note that while there are plenty of shorter problems, there are also highball lines that require some planning on how to get down.

SYMBOLS
R: Potential long fall.
X: You will die if you fall.
DWS: Or better known as Deep Water Solo, while there are no actual deep water solos at Paarl we have used it to indicate routes that are strictly solo, even though no water is involved.
Solo: No rope and no quickdraws, you're on your own.
Running: Slab routes where if you fall you have to run down the rock. There are few routes like this.
Bolts: Number of quickdraws required not including the chains.
B: Number of quickdraws required not including the chains.
Chains: Chains usually made up of two anchors.
C: Chains usually made up of two anchors.
A0: Aid climbing by pulling on quickdraws.
A1: Aid requiring a daisy chain, etrier and so on.
Stud: Hangerless bolt.

OLD BOLTS
There still remain some routes with rusty old bolts from the 80's and early 90's. These routes will be indicated as such within the text of this guide. It is not recommended to climb these until they have been rebolted.

RATINGS
Opinions will always vary, but we feel we have given most of the routes a fair shake.

CONTACT NUMBERS
Mountain Club of South Africa: 021-465 3412
Mountain Rescue / Ambulance: 10177
Police: 10111

CAMPING AND ACCOMMODATION
There is no camping allowed on the mountain at this time. You can however find plenty of guest houses in the town of Paarl itself. There are however braai areas on the left before taking the left hand turn-off to the pay booth, and more (on the right) as you take the pay booth turn off left. Remember to have your car out of the braai area parking before closing time, as a gate is closed at that time.

History of Climbing at Paarl Rocks

Unknown date
The story goes that a father and son were wandering around the rocks when the son accidentally fell into one of the many cracks adorning the rocks. After numerous attempts at rescue, and out of hope by this time, the father performs a mercy killing, shooting his son, and so the rock is named after David Gordon.
1969 - 1970
Until now no documented climbing had taken place at The Rocks, so the story really begins when James Marchant, Gabriel Athiros, John Knight and co. arrived. As was the trend back then they target crack lines, but also open some impressive slab climbs for that period. Remember, they were climbing in kletterschue at the time! In total they open nine climbs, in amongst which are "Rastus" and" Weasel" and a couple of solo routes on the Belly Button Slab. But their finest effort was no doubt "Your Granny's Tackie", following a large weather-worn groove and blank slabs to the top of Bretagne Rock. An impressive feat back in the day, that still offers a challenge even today in our modern more-stickier-than-tape rock shoes.
1972
Paarl Rock sees action for the first time when James Marchant and co. put the "Vietnam" crack in their sights.
1977
Ed and Rodney February climb the first pitch of "Sunset Warrior", with the remaining pitches being completed over the coming years.
1982
More crack climbing goes down when "Eddie and Co. Go Climbing".
1983
The new routing truly starts when a prominent 40m offwidth, "That Thing", is climbed by Ed February and Greg Lacey. A top-out is later established when Andy de Klerk and Alan Lambert join in the effort producing "Prelude to the Wastelands".
1984
A bitter year if you were Ed February. While attempting to finish the third pitch of "Sunset Warrior" as the sun was setting, he was placing a hand-drilled bolt when his crystal foothold gave way sending Ed tumbling down the rock with no protection between him and a wide-eyed Andy de Klerk at the belay. The resulting 40m fall left Ed with a broken ankle and the moniker The Grey Death was born.
1985
A year seeing many of the remaining crack lines opened whether good or bad, the good being "The Illearth Stone", "Stem Gem", "A Splinter of the Minds Eye" and "Umkhonto we Sizwe". "Stem Gem" has a reputation and has thrown off many a good climber, but the challenge of such a line is just too good to pass up. Andy de Klerk and Gordon Bosch also put the finishing touches on "Sunset Warrior" but has yet to see a continuous ascent.
1986
Andy de Klerk leads from the front with one of the hardest and finest routes in the country, "Blue Diamonds and White Ice".
1987
Paarl sees more traffic when Dave Shewell, Andy Forsyth, Rik de Dekker, Andy Wood and co. arrive and climb the most prominent crack features on Paarl Rock, eyeing "Cannonfodder" and "Absence of Compassion"".
1988
In the tradition of Paarl at the time Andy de Klerk and Ed February bolt "Children of a Lesser God" with the first bolt a respectful 12m off the deck; yet this route has since been retro-bolted and stands out as one of the must-climb routes at Paarl. Andy de Klerk can't get enough of cracks and discovers two hidden rough and tough roof cracks in the Arbor Cave, "Phase Space" and "Strange Attractor". Bryant Roux and Mike Cartwright finally lay claim to the first continuous ascent of "Sunset Warrior".
1989
Jeremy Samson and co. arrive and unleash a torrent of routes. Along with Jono Fischer Jeremy sparsely bolts "Little Dutch Boy" and maintains it's intimidating reputation until it was retro-bolted, and now stands out as one of Paarl's finest routes. Jeremy Samson and Jeremy Colenso continue new routing when they tame "Strong Loops and Wild Horses" and "Coming Up For Air" - these are two superb climbs that shouldn't be overlooked. John Alexander treads new ground just as the sport climbing scene was heating up and hand drills 30 bolts creating "Wonderland", the first multi-pitch sport route at Paarl. Jeremy Colenso also bolts the attractive "Cobalt Blue". With much enthusiasm and seeing no need for route guidance Jeremy Samson heads up "Sunset Warrior", a route that snakes it's way up the wall, however Jeremy mistakenly heads straight up instead of moving left and soon comes unstuck when he finds no sign of bolts and eventually runs out of rope! He has to untie and continue on up solo creating the 80m long "Sunset Warrior Direct".
1990
Jeremy Colenso eyes out a "Ruby in the Dust", an impressive route that should see more traffic if it get's rebolted. He also digs around and has fun on "Boys and their Toys".
1992
A party of Germans arrive and bolt "The Ring Route", one of the few bolted multi-pitch climbs at Paarl, but with lengthy run-outs. It sees few ascents.
1993
Jeremy Samson and Nic Dawes find an easy way to the top of Bretagne Rock but run it out significantly on "Pretty Girls Make Graves".
1994 - 1995
Not much happened at Paarl as sport climbing had just come into full force seeing everyone off bolting the next best thing on sandstone.
1996
Jeremy Samson eyes room on impressive west face of Bretagne and entertains with "Children of the Corn".
1998
One of the hardest routes at Paarl is established when Jeremy Samson returns to finish an old Jono Fischer project, the sandbagged "Parklife" opened at grade 24.
1999
Up until now there were no easy sport routes to climb, this all changed when John Terblanche established "Belly Button Brigade" on the gentler slopes of Gordon's Rock.
2002
Dave Davies' interest in Paarl Rocks is piqued and joins Mathew Lloyd-Sim in opening "In Two Minds" and "Memory Lapse" on the steep Parklife wall.
2003
Living just below the rocks at the time it was the obvious choice of crag for us. There were clearly some large unexploited multi-pitch walls that needed to be climbed and so Stewart Noy opened "Jovian Thunderbolts" and what is now the most popular line at Paarl, "Sands of Time".
2004
With the bit now firmly between the teeth we continued new routing, Scott Noy with the epic "Casualties of War", "Ugly Duckling" and "Chinese Footbinding". Stewart Noy found time to bolt one more multi-pitch, "The Scorched Earth", with Tienie Versfeld nabbing the first free ascent. The revival continued when Josef Mayer arrives from Austria to bolt several climbs starting with "Austrian Culinarium". Many of the older routes are rebolted breathing new life once again into some of the old routes.
2005
Josef Mayer continues the hard work bolting five easier multi-pitch routes on the eastern slabs of Paarl Rock, as well as two lengthy routes on the Weasel Wall. He also establishes a 10 pitch route on the low angled slopes of the Gladde Rock called "Fun for Children", providing a great day out for youngsters.
2006
More multi-pitch routes are established when Stewart Noy solves "The Relativity Puzzle" and "The Crystal Chronicles" is opened. "Jovian Thunderbolts" also get's a direct(er) start.
2007
Oddly enough the release of the first guide didn't see a flurry of new routes however Jeremy Samson & Clinton Martinengo returned, Jeremy giving up on a long-standing E9 trad project, instead clipping his way to the aptly named "Chicken Run". He also added a direct finish to "Little Dutch Boy", "Dutch Courage", on the self-named wall. Clinton claimed several unique pitches on "Scoobie Doo Goes Surfing" making use of a large circular scoop system.
2008
Bouldering! Niel Mostert eyed what many had overlooked on the plateau and slopes past the Illearth Boulder and established what has now grown into a top class granite destination. The problems range from grade 3 - 7C+ with enough projects to entice people to return for a first ascent.
Waiting for the cold winter months Clinton Martinengo tames the wild spear-arête, a long remaining open project, delivering one of the finest (and hardest at 32/8b) routes at Paarl Rocks. Joe Möhle made his Paarl debut finding "Catharsis" in a trinity of parallel cracks next door to "Little Dutch Boy". Josef Mayer returns to put up two routes, "Hannes' Rebirth" and "Garden Route" - a 500m long easy circuit route of the top of Bretagne Rock.
2009
A relatively quiet year only seeing Scott Noy taking a break from bouldering to pick a "Big Yellow Flower".
2010
Plenty of activity with minimal results. Having snapped a tendon in his left hand while bouldering Stewart Noy decided to transform the unexpected abundance of down time into 'drill-time' to ward of the inevitable onset of 'climber's depression', and wound up bolting several projects throughout the 2009/10 season without achieving any actual ascents. Scott Noy however did look to a steep unclimbed jug wall resulting in a ballsy showdown with "The Outlaw Josey Wales". Louis Syfrets also bolts "Little Mouse" directly below "The Scorched Earth".
2011
Jamie Smith makes an appearance and bolts the 40m "Majola".
2013
After not getting much done after his injury Stewart Noy hesitantly (after much cleaning and maintenance) gives away a route and Scott Noy gladly accepts "Hang 'em High".
2014
In the tradition of that wall Niel Mostert revives an old line of manufactured holds opening "Hard Euro Candy".