Ulorna is one of the most impressive crags in Bohuslän. The granite is clean and compact and many of the climbs are exceptionally good. The main parts of the walls are facing to the northwest and the sun comes around at two o'clock in summer.
The crags position by the Åbyfjord is also quite striking. There is a long beach by the foot of the walls and it's a nice place to spend the afternoon with family and friends.
For some years Ulorna was known mostly for being a good place for aid climbing. Then, in the early 2000s routes were starting to get freed and the word got around of what an extraordinary place this is. There was also a decision to ban any use of hammered in bolts and nowadays you hardly see any people (clean)aid climb there.
http://access.bergsport.se/ulorna/
Climbing is prohibited from 1st of March until July 15 each year due to nesting birds. Please help to ensure that this restriction is followed to avoid conflict with ornithologists and authorities. Any violation ot this restriction will likely result in this crag being closed down entirely for any future climbing. There are signs by the car park and on the approach.
Park by the harbor. The gravel road that lead in to the top ot the crag is a private road. Don't even use it to drop gear or people off.
All the walls at Ulorna are under the regulation of Bohusläns Climbing Club's bolt policy and no further bolting is allowed.
