Ulorna is one of the most impressive crags in Bohuslän. The granite is clean and compact and many of the climbs are exceptionally good. The main parts of the walls are facing to the northwest and the sun comes around at two o'clock in summer.
The crags position by the Åbyfjord is also quite striking. There is a long beach by the foot of the walls and it's a nice place to spend the afternoon with family and friends.
For some years Ulorna was known mostly for being a good place for aid climbing. Then, in the early 2000s routes were starting to get freed and the word got around of what an extraordinary place this is. There was also a decision to ban any use of hammered in bolts and nowadays you hardly see any people (clean)aid climb there.
Volontary climbing ban from March 1st until July 15 each year due to sensitive wildlife.
Park by the harbor. The gravel road that lead in to the top ot the crag is a private road. Don't even use it to drop gear or people off. Note that none of the parking spaces are pitches for mobile homes, which means that staying overnight in a mobile home or similar is not allowed.
All the walls at Ulorna are under the regulation of Bohusläns Climbing Club's bolt policy and no further bolting is allowed.
https://access.klatterforbundet.se/ulorna/
What is a voluntary climbing stop?
Decisions on voluntary climbing stops are taken by the Bohuslän Climbing Club in consultation with relevant experts, such as ornithologists, Nordens Ark and the County Administrative Board of Västra Götaland. Climbing stops are taken to protect sensitive animal and plant life in Bohuslän during certain periods of the year. If these voluntary climbing stops are not respected, we risk formal climbing bans with legal sanctions.
