Routes on Utby

66 sport 460 trad

We like Utby

Great trad and bouldering, and a little bit of sportclimbing. Bring 15 meter static rope if you want to toprope (fast´n easy with static, limited without).
mycket fint i gbg-skogen. Troligtvis min favorit i Göteborg. Om man håller sig borta från det allra knoppigaste.
Centralt, fina projekt. Här har vi haft kul mörkerklättring! Vasst

Activities on this crag

Utby

The area is access sensitive!

You’re not allowed to park your car on Ungmästaregatan, which gives the shortest approach, or any other street in its vicinity.

All camping is prohibited in the area (with exception for the Climb In weekend).

There is at the moment (2020) ongoing development of the area with several residential buildings under construction. That will certainly impact the parking possibilities. Keep yourself updated.

Check even:
- https://access.bergsport.se/gardsas/
- https://access.bergsport.se/utby/
- https://access.bergsport.se/fjallbo/

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Take the E20 eastwards. Leave the motorway at exit 76, Munkebäcksmotet (signs for Sävenäs), drive over the motorway and follow von Utfallsgatan (signs towards Utby). Follow the road for about 2 km, turn left onto Lemmingsgatan and then right (at the roundabout) onto Utbyvägen. Follow this road through another roundabout and then take the first left onto Sysslomansgatan. After some 250 m there is a paid parking lot on your left.
The drive is about 8 km.
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Detailed approaches are included in every sector’s description.
Note that there are many possibilities for free parking on the streets in the area but a lot of ”unknown” cars irritates the locals. Therefore, please use the paid parking lot as much as possible.
Also, see above for information about where to NOT park your car.
GÄRDSÅS: From the parking lot walk towards the clearly visible crag of Fjällbo. At the foot of the crag follow the broad walking path to the left past Fjällbo. Keep left where the path forks and continue with the crag of Utby on your right and a meadow on your left until you come to the end of Ungmästaregatan. Walk down the street and then turn right onto Sockerbagaregatan. Follow it to its end and continue along the cycleway. After a while you should see the obvious arête, which is the start of Start och speed.
The walk is about 1,5 km.
UTBY: From the parking lot walk towards the clearly visible crag of Fjällbo. At the foot of the crag follow the broad walking path to the left past Fjällbo. Keep left where the path forks (after some 550 m) if you want to climb at the sectors Glömda väggen, Ragnhilds näsa, Slabben and Rönnleden. If you want to climb at the other sectors, keep right where the path forks and take right again. The first sector, Till, is just past the first stairs. See map of the sectors on page 176.
FJÄLLBO: From the parking lot walk towards the clearly visible crag of Fjällbo. At the foot of the crag is a broad walking path. Use it to get to the different sectors (see map of the sectors on page 204).
RESILIN: From the car park follow Sysslomansgatan east­ward and then continue on Kanngjutaregatan. After some 550 m turn left onto Karduansmakaregatan and then right on a walking path. Follow this path, keep right and you should shortly see the crag to the left. The walk-in is around 800 m.
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There are a number of bus stops in the are. Use bus lines 58, 167, 510 to get there.