Routes

58 sport 1 trad

The area is access sensitive

MAKE SURE YOU PARK AT THE NEW PARKING LOT. Don't litter and don't scream. Do not climb the routes behind the summer houses when there are people in them. Check even https://access.bergsport.se/?s=vind%... Read more

We like Vindön

Många softa, långa leder med spektakulära tak :)!

Activities on this crag

Vindön

The area is access sensitive!

MAKE SURE YOU PARK AT THE NEW PARKING LOT.
Don't litter and don't scream.
Do not climb the routes behind the summer houses when there are people in them.
Check even https://access.bergsport.se/?s=vind%C3%B6n.

DIRECTIONS
From Göteborg take the E6 northwards. Leave the motorway at exit 96 .2, Torpmotet (signs for Orust/ Tjörn/Lysekil) and follow road 161 towards Lysekil. After 8 km turn left at a roundabout and follow road 160 towards Orust. After about 5 km you will pass a high bridge between mainland and the island of Orust. Turn right directly after the bridge (just before a tunnel), drive downhill for about 200 m and park on the left side at the Brandskärbåtar (towards the rocks, not the entrances).
The drive is about 95 km.
Go back upphill and you should see the crag behind some summer houses. To get there, DO NOT walk through the summer house’s garden. Instead follow the narrow road for about 200 m. Then you should spot a path on the left side. Follow the path to the crag (the arête you arrive at is the start of Genua).

SÖDRA VINDÖN
The crag is in the south of peninsula and contains some rather easy and long top rope routes.
The crag faces south but is shaded in the lower parts by some thick vegetation meaning the lower parts of the crag could be wet for a while after rain.
All routes at the crag are climbed on top rope. There are n lower-offs on the top of the crag. but there are plenty of cracks there making setting up top ropes easy. The routes are slightly overhanging or the first 5-10 m and get easier thereafter. The rock quality is not always the best.
Approach: From the parking lot follow the gavelled road (private road , do not drive here) for about 200 m and you should spot the crag to the left of the road.