Chris Smallwood

Cool problem, felt harder than 6 to me, maybe I was doing it wrong.

Repeated first try today.

Repeated first try today.

Crimpy and funny to climb next to an amazing jug without using it. Would be cool to climb this using beta that jumps or bumps to the jug in the future, not good for my shoulder tweak right now though.

Unsure on the grade... 2 sessions.

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021 Did the high and mid start, double undercling low start eluded me.

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021 Hannah flashed!

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Cool squeeze boulder, not much trickery.

Spent a long time trying to kneebar in the wrong spot before figuring out how to do the crux properly. No idea on the grade but I had to try really hard to pull it off at the end of a long weekend of roof pulling. Fun climbing whether you want to call it v6 or v10.

Climbing at Priest Draw is amazing, local quarrels over what feet/hands you can use and what beta is legitimate is less than amazing.

Nice change of style from everything else at Priest Draw.

Great reachy pocket problem on left side of monster roof.

One of my favorites at Priest Draw

Throw move is cool, beginning is meh.

Amazing boulder problem with several options for the crux, all seem to be height dependent, luckily I could reach the toe hooks. Comp dynos are cool but I just can't so I kept my feet on and compressed the right hand pinch and a left side pull crimp. Would love to see shorter person beta that keeps the difficulty around v9

squat start, might feel V10 if you sit, really fun regardless. 3 or 4 tries.

Second move crux gave me so much trouble and pain. Had one or two heartbreak punts at the top before sending. A problem I thought I had a chance at 5 years ago, turns out I needed to get a lot better before being capable.

First move is hard! More effort than most the 8's and 9's I did this season.

Retro Flash

GB day 2 this year, still couldn't do "the move" on something from nothing. All the other moves feel easy though...

Last Morning in Hueco, great trip, sad to leave!

Thrashed myself on Full Service but couldn't manage to send it in a session. Something to try in the future for sure!

2nd go.

Easy but so fun.

Almost as good as the original.

Ricky O's mandatory old-school eliminate method.

Couple of tries. Soft and sharp but still cool.

Climbers cooler than it looks! Topout is easy but exciting and quality. Felt on the easier side to me.

Soft. Almost blew the top! Somehow kept the foot on for the crux throw.

Crimpy! Hannah got really stoked and sent on a return trip out to East, her hardest boulder!

Stoked I was patient, flashing is stressful! 9/10

8/9

Amazing. Was looking for a pure power boulder and this fit the bill perfectly.

Resistant, fell on See Spot several times. Probably soft, just pumpy.

Barefoot of course!

A 7 year dream remembered.

Awesome problem, awful landing/dab situation.

2 or 3 tries. Tried Karajo a few times, shoulder move felt hard.

Finally got out of the city for some rock climbing, kicking off the last year of my 20's.

Thought Myloade would go before this one, turned out the other way around. Close on Myloade as well, ran out of skin and energy by the end of the session.

Surreal. 14 sessions over the past two summers, making steady progress but never expecting anything because it always felt so hard. Elated I stuck with it. Colorado Summer of Redemption complete! Now for Hannah's LT100!

Simply Excellent.

Big pinch jug is gone. Went up OG line to new side pull from break and then a couple bumps with the right hand to gain good edge above before moving left to topout. Didn't feel contrived this way and still a fun problem. Probably easier than Beyond Matters for most, in the 7/8 range.

What has roots nobody sees, is taller than trees, up, up, up it goes and yet, never grows?

**NOT A REAL PROBLEM** (Although maybe it should be. Started matched on underclings). Just a big step towards sending a long term project for me. Feeling cute, might delete later. Guessing V10, who knows.

Must improve at figuring out beta before I can send things in a day. Two sessions with a lot of beta video research in between.

Really enjoyed the movement.

Small boulder between the Cube and Swing of Things. Looks terrible, but surprisingly fun movement.

Can't even believe it, the saga is complete! First tried summer 2014, thought I was close then after a couple of sessions but in reality was not good enough. Summer 2018 I knew I was capable from the first session but five sessions later and countless attempts climbing through 'the crux' only to fail on the easier moves just before the slab and I walked away empty handed. Summer 2019, one half hearted session when I was dead tired yielded little encouragement. Second session I climbed up to the lip encounter on my first attempt but foot dabbed the tree on the little throw up and left. Managed to send next try despite not remembering the beta to get onto the slab and doing some sketchy improvisation! This was probably my biggest mental battle in climbing to date, knowing I was strong enough and coming agonizingly close so many times but in the end it was all about mental control.

High start with good left hand side pull. Tried forever last week to go directly up the face using the bad right hand pinches to no avail. Came back and did it the normal beta going out to the arete immediately. Honestly hated it that way. I wish you had to use those rad pinches, it would be harder and 100x better. Oh well, climbed one of the best boulders of my life an hour later.

Left exit, started matched on crimp under roof.

Straight out the prow, started matched on crimp under roof. Core intensive to keep feet from cutting.

V7/8, finished up and left.

Great boulder, bad hang.

V8/9, good beta for the lip encounter felt crucial.

couple of tries, climbs better than it looks!

Came so close on 1st attempt, botched beta on 2nd attempt, then barely squeaked it at the end of the day. Still have the full line w/ direct start to do.

v8? v9?

Loose rock, thorn bushes, angry bats, always an adventure following T Sky around.

Keeping my Solarium resume up to date, still haven't done Helios though...

Climbed it again because one of the crux knobs broke since our last day here. Still goes with gaston beta but a bit harder and way more shouldery. Too bad because Hannah was super close to sending before the break.

FFG. Really enjoyed this one, huge lock-off to undercling was rad!

FFG. Rad, took a lot of beta sussing first go but managed to put it together on the second!

FFG, loving the climbing here!

Resistent 4th

Cool wall for how short it is.

ffg

ffg

Always wanted to climb this feature! Pumped off above the last bolt a few times before sending including falling off the very last move, exciting fall without the last bolt clipped!

Having Fun.

Getting Mileage.

Retro-Flashing.

Finally a full day of climbing in the sun despite everything still being damp. Darkside was dripping...

Felt too hard to be 12b, good climb and a bit spicy

Such a fun route, Hannah's new project after sending Snooker the other day, her first 13!

Flash? Retro BR?

Finally didn't punt off after the no hands rest!

First try this year, tried it once or twice years ago

Hannah's Bday! Just belayed besides this climb and she sent RoShampo, this one and Wild Gift today! Good times!

Couldn't make that damn crux clip so I skipped it and clipped it at my ankle once I was on the jug ledge. Fun movement but kind of frustrating with that clip.

FFG, Hannah did it 2nd try too!

FFG

Hard

3 tries today, plus 1 or 2 a couple years ago. Very surprised to find myself through the boulder problem, such a burly sequence.

Better rests but harder moves than The Suffering. 12b/c

FFG

FFG. 12d? Odd climb because the low boulder problem is quite difficult but then the endurance climbing to the anchors is easier than a lot of the other routes nearby.

3rd try, cool moves but eats skin

2 tries today, think I tried it a couple times in a previous season

FFG, rested out right, didn't feel as off route to do that as it looked from the ground

FFG

FFG, endurance is coming back!

FFG

FFG

FFG

FFG

One of the bolts pulled out of the wall later in the day after I climbed it.

V9/10. The sendless summer continues on the actual projects...

Not sure if I started in the right place first time I did it, too bad the landing is so awkward at the start because the movement is fun

The destroyer of my knee, the epic creator. Finally went back and did it 4 years after getting down from Chaos using only one of my legs because of this thing.

Adds a little fatigue to Potato Chip but not too bad. Both lines would be 5 stars if it wasn't for all the dab avoidance.

Favorite warmup, do it every time

Started matched on the sidepull and exited out right. Probably 7 or 8.

great little power problem

copilot

Adds a fun start to Crystal Ball. Gets 12d but probably closer to 12c

cool rock, took me a bit to figure out

can't remember the last 5.12 that took as many tries as this...

foot slipped after crux on second go, classic rifle

Took forever to figure out a sequence on the first go then surprised myself and did it second try!

Thought Hannah could work this one for a few days but instead she did it in a quick session... what's next?

So good!

Pretty spicy runouts, pitch 1 would not be pretty if you blew it high above the 2nd bolt. Great climb!

Just exciting enough

Started matched on the block pinch

Delicate up top

Started as low as possible, not a fan

My other big goal for this season! Went down perfectly today similar to Freak, rehearsed in 3 sections top down then sent first try of the day from the start. Ended up going left hand first for the opening move. A bit easier than Pagan Poetry for me but felt full value with the thin, high topout! Both challenged me more than any 10's I've done in Joe's. 4 sessions this year.

Out of nowhere! Just messing around on the intro moves while Hannah worked 'Jordan' ended up sticking the Jordan hold from the ground and keeping it together through the crux of Jordan. Double double day!

Did it from the original start on two thin crimps. Definitely a step up in difficulty from the higher start but detracts from the quality of the line. Did the later crux with a new method for me which was fun (still finishing right, not original left). The higher start and topping out right seems to be the least contrived way to do this problem regardless of grade... much drama.

Really fun start of Lactation Station to unpleasant traverse to fun V6. Bizarre but worth doing.

3 tries, really cool! Hannah did it on the quick too! 7/8?

So thin but the movement is great, middle finger kept slipping off the right hand in the crux but stuck the left gaston without it on the right hold anyways, odd sensation. Two short sessions, sent once early in the session but dabbed spotter's arm grabbing the jug lip so had to do it twice... Mid-April bouldering is always good to me!

2 tries, tweaky on the fingers but would be a lot harder if you couldnt get any digits in that slot