Jukka Leinonen

Dirty and has brittle rock. Took some rests in the rope when leading

New personal best!

25m. From the ledge on top of the route ”18 karat”, climb left past a bolt to a bolted belay on the slab below the wall. The route goes up the left arête. Bolted anchor.

Sustained and technical crack on a slab. Did only the first pitch (45meters) since the rest are poor I hear. Rappel from slings (slung around somewhat loose blocks) or nuts. One may need to leave own ones though.

I have done two variations on the route.

Did it in two approximately 50 meter pitches. Then traversed right for about another 50 meters to reach rappel anchors on Zapffeegga (several ropes and two carabiners). Both pitches were about 5+.

Led pitches 1, 3 and 5. The first pitch was a small right facing dihedral with a finger crack in the bottom.

Second try

second try

second try

Climbed the first pitch on lead on 4th try.

Well protected chimney climbing (no particular need for big gear)

Needed two approach pitches to reach the dihedral pitch.

On second pitch climbed over two roofs before traversing to the right. Should have traversed under the first roof probably. Also needed an extra pitch to get to the belay station below the crux pitch. Climbed the crux pitch as second. It felt difficult. Cut it into two because the obvious belay station after about 40meters.

climbed to the 2nd amfi previously and climbed up from there in 2019. The last pitch was so dirty that decided to not do it actually but instead did the south pilaren last pitch. The 2nd pitch has a pretty long runout. The topo guide (from the book) is missing some pitches and is quite inaccurate otherwise as well.

Took a wrong turn to the left in the early stages of 2nd pitch. Climbed the crux as a second. The crux pitch has an excellent belay station at midpoint.

A bit of a runout on an easy section. Any midsized cam will do to eliminate the runout.

Excellent ambience!

Cryptic start, I may have gone round the left

Bring peenuts

Björn led the crux pitch. The pitches other than the crux were max 5+.

There is a wide crack on second pitch. The pitches are 5 / 5+ / 3

good jugs and lot of bolts => excellent warm up and beginner route

Loose blocks - don't drop them on your belayer :/

not that continuous

traditional protection all the way

2 bolts in the end

Kolme ekaa gearia oli esiklipattu kiipeilyparin yrityksen jäljiltä

Don't recall the actual ascent date but I do recall that the route was hard to follow on the 4th pitch.

I would suggest a #5 cam for the start of 2nd pitch. The #4 Camalot we used had cams almost fully open. en muista tarkkaa kiipeilypäivää.

Päiväyksen arvasin

There are obviously many ways to do the 3rd pitch. I found the direct line next to the arete most inviting. Date not exact

The protection in the traverse is far from optimal

liidasin vaan ekat skrämpläys-kp:t.

Taisin lipsahtaa vasemmalle liian varhaisessa vaiheessa.

likainen, päiväyksen arvasin

Harjailin toppia ja tyyppasin eka yläköydellä - on se kummis 6-metrinen ja meikän taitojen rajoilla

melko paha laskeutumisalue

Korkeutta on yli 6metriä. Jatkuva. Oli mun mielestä selkeästi vaikeampi kuin Kitkasika (6a+) ja Kulma (6b). Mutta suunnilleen samalla määrällä projektointia meni Mau Mau Traverse (6b).

Probably the easiest 6b+ at Hiidenkirnut

Did some aid on pitch 4 but our team free-climbed it on July 11th 2014.

Did some aid on the wet section.

päiväys arvattu

Lead on pitches 2 (F6a / N6 ) and 4 (N4). Should have done it in 5 pitches. The first pitch had scarce protections.

One of the more easy 6b+'s at Hiidenkirnut

Kenohalkeamaa ei kuulu reittiin

Probably the easiest 6b at Hiidenkirnut

Reached the crux on top rope and lead the rest of the crux pitch

On-sighted the Slanting corner!

Lead on the first 2 pitches (max 6a)

Päiväyksen arvasin

The first pitch was nice climbing with steep cracks and grooves but after that the route had little challenges to offer.

Lead pitch 2 (5+)

Did the approach pitch, then two pitches of Spurven and then two pitches of Colibrien. Swiss quide climbed in front of us did Fingerrisset instead of the first pitch of Colibrien we did. Would have been nicer for us as well.

Steep route on solid rock and brilliant summit! Climb the Direkte-Innsteget (about 55metres) to reach the start of the route. The route follows an obvious line of weaknesses to reach the big ledge (about 45 metres). The last pitch is the same as for Ørneryggen: first a short handcrack and then easier ground all the way up to the summit (30metres)

The route was brushed on May 2013

Jännää oli!

päiväys arvattu, likainen

Superb! 45meters of sustained finger crack climbing on a slab. Old gear had been left to put up a rappel anchor.

Too long for my 60meters rope

Lead climbed the second pitch

Seconded the crux pitch

First 3 pitches were ok but after that it was boringly easy

Harder than what it looks!

Starting from the Direkte insteget will make the experience nicer.

Though it would be easy and went for it for a warm-up... Got surprised by the difficulty and had to lean on the rope for a while.