Pama Luc

Best line I have ever climbed! 7session after 4 on „luftig kö till nålens öga“ which i did 2 month earlier.

Suited me well but not well enough to jump a grade. It also turned into a crouch start since the stone wall was lowered down but this shouldn’t impact the grade since it’s good holds in the beginning. Used the right heel beta for the crux

Fun climb. I was very sceptical first. Good Peter pushed me into it. Maybe soft 7c or hard b+. Hard to judge. Not morpho though. Enough options for all sizes…The beta I used felt more like hard 7c but it wasn’t the smartest way up for sure. I could only do it static because the pebbles for the left hand felt not safe enough for me to go up more dynamic.

One of the best boulders out there. Proud to tick. I was close to put it as hard 8a but had to realize that sticking the heel hooks all the way is not all about luck but body tension and precision. The lock off move up to the crimp felt relatively easy this time compared to last summer when I tried it. While I was able to pull the lock off only 2 times a session last year I could do it like everytime this year. Soft 8a+ imo

3 stars are not enough

Was a pleasure

second ascent. I started with the right hand on the low sharp crimp and left hand on the high crimp (inside). Took me 4 sessions after I did the låg start and felt much harder than the låg.

New shoes, best conditions, first try after trying some new betas for the stand.

I don’t understand how this boulder can be 7b. I know at least four 8a climbers who had to project that one for many sessions.

True gem in the forest! First real session on it being rested and not wasted by lithium. I think 2 good sessions for it. Suits my style till the last move 😅 Using a palm pinch instead of a normal pinch lowers the grade imo

Grading became so easy. Almost always a grade higher than Carl 😘

Amazing moves. Opinion about the grade I wrote on 8a.nu

Finally. On a rainy day. Hard 8a for me. One of my favorite boulders

Felt so good today! Nemesis

Hard on the body tension.

I used a high left foot and an intermediate hold 10cm below the rail for the crux move. One of the best of Okertal! Rather soft 7c than 7b+ imo

4go in around 6 sessions after I did Tvekampen 8month ago also in around 6 sessions. Maybe I am going to upgrade it to my first 8a+. Not sure yet. I need to let it sink first. Update 2024: Definitely harder then Tvekampen.

No chance in the first move of the sit today.

Beautiful endurance line. Quite consistent. Went down quite quick after really mad hooker but I had to go all in. Everyone heard that😅

Hard b+. First move makes the grade. What a boulder!

Started with lower obvious holds. Left in the better one and right above. 2nd go

Hard to grade. Could be easier. But the last move was a close catch for me

Soft 7c or even 7b+

Nice heel hook toehook compression peace. Last boulder of today. 2nd go. No fingertip skin needed

I changed betas and grip position quite often. Nice puzzle peace!

Did the song about 3 weeks ago. Today we arrived late and I had the goal of doin all the moves. Three hard moves. The first, the shoulder move and the move from the knife to to the jug. Can’t believe I pulled my way threw that in the first Papparazi session. Such a gem.

3rd go. Nice top out!

First moves makes the grade and the rest just eats the skin. Nice moves

All about the first move. Took me many many tries to stick it. Hard and low percentage. Something in the range of 7c to 7c+ imo. I had to hang and dab a tarp because of rain. So not a really clean go since I had to climb through the tarp. Video below

Heel hook version instead of low percentage move. Too bad the sit is so reachy! No chance for me. At least in my condition

Now it is a solid 7b after the Major hold broke out like 5month ago. Cool block!!!

Puh first move took me more tries than Dillerium sit haha. But it’s a dynamic move and we didn’t have much skin left and just didn’t want to hold on to it

3rd try from bottom after I did the stand just before. Hard to believe it’s an 8a. I wait for Eric’s opinion next year when he tries it rested. Otherwise I want to keep it as my little holliday takeaway. But i guess I will change it too 7c+ soon.

Cruxy and technical. Started with the heel hook

Cool line!

went there 3 times little bit wasted and it felt impossible. This time I went fully rested and cruised it.

Heel hook made the grade for me

Flashed the sit and then realized it’s a defined start. Without definition it felt like 6c+/7a and changing hands changed everything. Needed like couple of more tries

Lower end 7c.

Soft 7c or hard 7b+. Ass on sneakers. Only brought an empty chalkbag and shoes. Many betas possible. Cool moves definetely. Also many people passing at the spot.

Soft 7c+ or hard 7c. It is hard to tell. Also because I did a weird beta. The bottom is quite hard and requires the best skin. I go for soft 7c+ because I tried it often and perfected the beta. Even if I fucked up the top out 😅 my favorite boulder problem in skåne so far.

Gets only the plus because it was so hard to get the foot up😅. 2nd go from bottom

Solid 8a for me. 6 sessions, ug1 or shiva felt easier for me.

Hard 7b. I think the smaller u are the less difference there is between sit and stand. Blocking the left hand felt rather hard for me. It’s also the only really hard move in sit and stand. I am not fit atm but my first impression was 7b+ soft for stand and 7c (maybe soft) for sit. But seeing the other suggestions made me question myself😅. Especially Rob d who has so much experience..

Crimpfest

Short and intense. Jump didn’t work for me…

soft

Kurz und knackig.

Wednesday complete in water after hard rain. Next day I dried it with a towel and did it first go. Feels more like a traverse and more like soft to medium 8a for me. Maybe 8a+ for MW but not compared to others crags i have been too. When u read the comments at 8a.nu then u see the words "soft" or "went down quick" or "first 8a+" or "not my style but".... i mean common. coincidence or is this the softest 8a+ out there? Haters gonna hate. The boulder still made my day!

End of fist session I joined a group on that and fell on top out after figuring out the moves. Next day after I did piranha it worked second go. I used two heel hook beta for the crux. Such a nice boulder. Video below

I used the sharp crimp. Never tried the deadpoint move cause it’s not my style. I heard their is a kind of new crimp in the beginning. No idea which one. Couldn’t care less. Climbed it the most logical way for me and it felt like 7c+

To beautiful to not give it a try

Went their after i did intermezzo. U rather do it quick. It’s a skin eater 😅 but worth it! Very technical

2nd go. The undercling was super wet and destroyed the flash go. I startet with both hands on the right jug instead. Didn’t make any difference for me. Just added one move.

Went up with right hand first since it felt easiest for me. Video below where I tried different betas for the crux before.

2nd go. Soft 7b imo. So many horseflies omg. I don’t recommend going there on a hot summer day. Not a nice walk there and many many Insects 😂

2nd go. The last move made it a 7a imo.

If u can pull on the crimp just enough the boulder feels maybe not too hard. But I would say that this one crimp is a benchmark move for 7b+. Gold!

Soft 7b imo

I saw a video somewhere, where one guy started a bit higher. I couldn’t find it anymore…think this Boulder which starts a bit lower makes sense. It’s also a nice warm up grade for the harder stuff with some technical moves. 😊 there is one flake which felt a bit lose. Maybe the next one can take it off. I just forgot it😅 Edit: (2022) Just found the video where he did it original name: wrong direction

First moves makes the grade for me. Super nice problem.

Stand is 7c+ I did 28.11.20. today it was the sit.

2nd go. Forgot to check where to grab the top

3rd go.

7b+ hard. Special moves. Super cool

2nd

7b soft oder 7a+ hard. Schwer einzuschätzen. War ein top Tag.

2nd go. Hart zu bewerten. Die crux fühlte sich ok an wenn der hook drin bleibt. Softe 7b oder harte 7a+. Scheiß egal cooles Problem

Video below

First try today.

A bit easier than goldfinger but still hard.

One hour of drying (no heat). Worth it. Video below

Soft. Maybe even 7b. Video below

Video below for beta

Video below

7c/7c+

As Hard as fuck. 3rd

First try. Did fuck before

Second go but did fuck already. Soft 7b+

Soft 7c

I don’t get what’s meant with „without the large hold straight up“. Has two meanings. I followed the crack and the line that someone drew. And it felt like 7a+. The first 30% define the grade. Afterwards it’s a 4.

Soft 7c+. Video below

Tritte links genutzt. Die Crux ist der Zug hoch zur Bohrung und bestimmt den Grad. Toller Boulder. Mindestens 2 Pads einpacken! 😅

Morpho. 1,80m and close for me

Amazing boulder. Video below

Soft

First try after stand start flash. Soft A+

Soft 7a. Just a little sharp.

Sit start...

Could be 7a+ could be 7b. Gave me a hard time anyway 😅

In the Guidebook 8a but I guess it’s meant as a fb trav grade which makes it a 7c+ but a soft one

I like it a lot...

Soft

Without the crimp on the left (like in the current guidebook). 7b.

Video below

Video below

Amazing block

Soft b imo. Bring the left foot far out to the left ASAP. Rainy day just wanted to try the holds and just did it. Weird moment

One of my top 10 in Kjugekull. Hard 7b for me

Super nice boulder. But please. That’s some hard mantle and I have seen many strong climbers falling first try😅

Static. soft if u like dynamic bouldering

Rather a Soft b+ imo

Low start makes a difference 😉 could be even 7c.

Campusing the second move probably isn’t 6b like. Even the top out can be challenging. Bringing the right foot up was my crux.