Trevor McGuire

Very shouldery. Unconventional/compy beta.

right wall eliminated + water = tricky

Hard to stop the barn door.

At least three ways to do it. Possibly a little morpho.

Considering this took me multiple sessions over 2 years, I am either doing it wrong, or it's not a 5.

I got both feet on the top and then immediately downclimbed.

I was just testing some beta and didn't actually plan to top it out.

Will push you off if you try to force any of the moves.

Ugliest flash ever. Never give up, I guess.

Really fun little traverse. Be sure to bring a brush.

description probably means left crack? I don't see any large crack on the right.

It's a shame the top out is such garbage because the actual climb has such a fun move.

Much less sketchy than it seems upon approach.

I'm not sure what the "real" beta is, but this thing took me 3 sessions to figure out something that worked. Really fun climbing.

still can't get right to left. feels noticeably harder.

Finding holds on the vertical line can be tricky.

fingers are all warmed up now!

So amazingly sketchy!

i used a fist jam to start and two more hand jams later, which seems excessive for a 5.

I'm not sure what the intended beta is, but from a tall standing start, it's only a 5, and from a short person crouch, it's a hard 6a for sure. great movements if you start from below the crux.

sit start

Probably easy-ish for people with long arms.

I love the sketchy footwork in the middle. Just the right amount of terror.

Short people get to use a fun knee bar if they want to.

the top is spicy. The crack needs a good cleaning to climb.

Several different betas available. Crux is 2-3 moves from the start.

I'm in love with the pinch I used on the starting move.

Maybe the conditions have changed since FA? This was probably 5+.

Did it two ways thinking I might have the route wrong, but neither felt like 6b.

I did the rare 'avoid the spiders' eliminate.

Short people won't be able to match the video beta. It took me at least one extra foot move to make the high left foot.

First try I veered left, second time right, and on the third time, I found a path straight through the moss. It is possible under current conditions.

Pretty straight forward. Mantle for short people, maybe not for tall people.

Tiny toe hold to get the whole thing going. The only thing harder than the start is the second move.

Short people can sit start without using the broken rock for feet. First hueco is glorious on the fingers; it makes the whole climb worth it.

Beautiful route for building confidence with new climbers.

Can be done using only hands jams and no holds on the right side of the feature.

The top out hold is jiggling. It doesn't seem ready to break off yet, but another winter and then a heavy climber might break off a big chunk.

Right foothold looks intentionally chipped and perhaps recently. Takes some of the fun out of it.

I assume this is a sit start judging by the grade, so I did it that way.

I found it easier than using the arete!

Extremely technical with one or two powerful moves. Start overhangs 40 degrees, middle overhangs 20 degrees and final hold overhangs 30 degrees.

I probably started a little left of the intended start, but it doesn't change much.

Love the dyno to top out. Totally possible even for shorties (165cm).

With the rating, I assume the route would tend left. Climbed as the topo indicates, the rating should be higher.

French system in the app rates at 5+, which seems way too low. North American rating of 10a seems more reasonable. As a short person, this route was sustained at the grade of the crux.

One of my favorite short lines in this complex. Good hands with precise foot placements.

The most generous diagonal doesn't seem to match up with the topo, so I climbed it from the topo line instead of what was sensical from the description.

As with most topos on this boulder, it's hard to tell if I did this 'right'. The problem I did was harder than 5+, but I'm short (165cm) and wasn't using a crash pad, so I think my beta had to be a lot different than intended.

A good warm up that also helps you get an idea of how the top outs are going to look for other routes.

Fancy footwork under the roof, and a powerful move to get around the corner onto Lilja. Mental game to finish it off.

Starting beta is tricky. Watch the video if it doesn't seem possible. The decent foot hold under the lip on the left side of the starting position isn't used.

No actual jamming necessary.

Very challenging start. One good foot and one decent hand is all you get. Get vertical and it's a cakewalk to the top.

After looking at the video, I started further right. I'm short, so the only sit start I could do was all the way to the right. The feet are garbage over there, but it doesn't really change the grade.

I can only assume the sit start has to mean sitting on the big rock thats right there.

The grade is probably a little soft, but mainly because the middle part of the crack is a little slopy in the middle section.

This is the highlight of the whole complex.

Would be very challenging for tall climbers I think.

Assuming a sit start.

Really wet and overgrown.

Short and powerful.

Definitely a great route for short people.

Using only the crack is a markedly harder start than using the crack and the jug to the right.

Lots of good hold options and a lot of fun engaging a lot of muscles. Not a lot of technique here, just hard pulling.

I went high at the first vertical crack and downclimbed the second vertical crack.

No way this is a 5. Cruxy feet at the start, a gnarly top out and really delicate moves in between. I'm 5'5", so take what I say with a grain of salt if you are tall.

Lots of hidden jugs inside the crack on the right side.

A good crystal used on the initial ascents has broken off. Top out move is now more palmy than crimpy.

Currently impeded by a fallen tree. Still possible to do, but the start is weird.

I did this accidentally when I missed a foot on Knife Party.

Good to get your skin used to the texture.

This is a good warmup if you aren't used to the sharpness of this rock.

Super tough start with really delicate foot movements. Once you are weighted on the right foot, finishing the slab is delicate but straight forward. Lots of variations are possible here.