Toby Archer

I have a vague recollection that I might have done the first ascent of this route about 25 years ago, but I might be totally wrong...

First time doing it as a sport climb.

Felt pretty nails to me, but then I am shit at anything slightly overhanging!

First time doing it in well over a decade and first time doing it as a sport climb.

A really great easier sport route.

A bit grubby, but nice enough.

Seconded. Nice climb. VS 4c, old Finnish 5-.

Good but no pushover. Finnish 5/UK VS 5a I reckon.

Seconded. Hard and slightly bold moves to get started. Not certain of the grade but felt maybe even English 5b tech, so 6a-ish? Old Finnish 6- anyway.

If anyone has done this line previously (I don't think it has been led as the cracks weren't cleaned out but may have been soloed) please rename it if you can think of something better!

Could do with a bit more brushing - forgot to bring one with me.

Nice, super fingery climbing.

Actually two or three moves and not easy ones! :)

Finnish 5- or maybe HS 4c.

Started slightly right of the line on the topo as the lowest ice had melted out.

Possible first clean ascent.

Not really an onsight at all because I probably did the first ascent of this line 15 years back, but it is harder than I remember it being - maybe Finnish 4+ or 5-, and definitely needs a good brush which I really should go and do sometime!

Don't really know what french grade it should be, but significantly easier than most of the local 6as to me.

Much better now as a sport route. Grade might be 5+, very definitely NOT 4+.

Fun climbing but needs more ascents to get cleaner.

Fell off the crux once. Don't really know what French grade it should get but felt about Finnish 6- to me. Fantastic climb that just keeps going.

Onsight in trainers.

Not swinging into the tree is the crux!

Went leftish at the top - top of the boulder was wet so this seemed the most secure way.

Fell off trying to lead. Bouldery start to second bolt then easy.

Climbed the crack the whole way. Very nice and good gear. Finnish 5+ definitely, not sure what French grade that is.

Delicate and lovely moves on the slab, but not too hard.

Probably only Finnish 4 or 4+.

Looks impressively blank at a distance. A few holds make it possible.

Nice climb, but at least Finnish 4+, so F3 seems rather to underestimate it?

A bit grubby and the tricky move off the ledge would be scary without RPs or similar to protect. Rock quality not the best

Very soft.

Felt like Finnish 5 or HVS 5a. Not sure in French grades.

Not "sport". Two bolts and lots of groundfall potential without some trad gear being used. No anchors on the first ledge, climb the upper tier (4+) and walk back to trees.

As many Camalot #3s (or similar) as possible will be helpful!

Not quite sure where the finish goes, but went right to the big crack and lower off.

Easier than any of the other Laatta routes. Fantastic.

A big cam makes it safer.

Don't really know what French grade, Finnish 5- or VS 4C. Some nice climbing but a huge ledge in the middle.

Good climb and more gear that it looks.

Probably second ascent.

Fell on first attempt. Ground up.

Climbed as a trad route before it was retroed and renamed.

We thought VS 4b, and didn't learn about the 90s ascent(s?) until later.

Not sure of the date. Not great, but an obvious line.

Not really sure of the date. I got credited with the first ascent, although it may have been climbed in the 90s. Name should be "Don't Lay Back Crack", although even that was only a 'nickname' in the UKC database. (Finnish 5- or VS 4c, no idea what French grade it is!).

Thought I was climbing a new line, but Saku had done it just days previously! Lovely climbing.

Caving really and rather silly. Don't remember the date.

Early season, only touching down on the right side so took line pretty much as shown on the topo, although traverse more left at the top to reach the trees.

Don't ab back down the route, carry on scrambling and walking to the summit of the mountain (a walking descent can be done down the north side of the peak) for one of the best mountain days you'll ever have.

The 2001 Topo had all the route names reversed, so I climbed this ground up thinking it was "Americano" and grade 5. I climbed it after one fall thinking that grade seemed about right, but it was dirty.

Rather soft at Nor. 6 or 6b!