Beatelund

Quite a big crag shaped like a U with sectors facing different directions wonderfully located at Kolström, a narrow channel between Ingarö and Farstalandet. Beatelund is not a first-hand choice when it comes to rock quality because the rock is a bit loose and broken. On the other hand, this place has an unusually relaxed and calm atmosphere along with a magnificent view from the top.

Down at the water at the overhanging wall there is a big flat ledge that fits perfectly for sunbathing and some picnic. Here you can relax in the sun, climb a little and then maybe go for a swim - with those criteria, this crag is a nice alternative despite the somewhat bad rock quality.

Beatelund houses four sectors with different angles, heights and quality. Most of the traditional routes are at Svaväggen and the rock quality here is slightly better than in other sectors. This sector doesn't get many visits and it probably needs quite a lot of brushing. The climbs on the right side of this sector located over the water look quite cool and you should at least check it out.

Örnnästet is a small quite nice seven meters high slightly overhanging wall located 20 meters above the water. The rock quality in this little sector is quite ok actually. You can "walk" down to the wall (which might be a bit scary and adventurous) via a gutter (ränna) from the top of the crag. Some bolted or mixed routes. Climbable, but would benefit if some proper bolting were done.

On the other walls, there are mostly bolted routes, though not always perfectly bolted and with some uncomfortable clips at times. The bolts are not always perfectly placed and the climbing can be a bit demanding although the grading is not that difficult. Don't forget there is an anchor at the top where you can abseil down to a couple of routes if you want to rig a toprope (look at the topo on sector Sidoväggen). The routes at Överhängande väggen are mainly short, steep and quite ok bolted.

This is not a suitable crag for small kids as the terrain is quite steep and uneven adjacent to the walls. Bring a brush as some of the routes may be dirty, but the steeper ones are generally ok.

Environment:
Mostly south facing and open for the sun, but some trees at the flanks give some shade here and there at the base.

First route was made in 1979 by Lars Svadängs. Then nothing happened until mid nineties when Mats Olofsson with friends made a bunch of routes. Mats routes are often characterised with funny names and sometimes a bit sparse bolted as well. Over the years some more routes have been done by different Stockholm climbers.

There are still some possibilities for new routes here but be aware that the crag lies on private land belonging to Beatelund's manor located about 250 meters northwest of the crag.