An excellent, if somewhat less popular venue than it’s northern neighbour (Burbage North) the south edge offers many fine climbs and a few stupendous ones, particularly in the higher grades. Sections of the crag were once quarried, and these add variety in the form of sharp arêtes, peg-scarred finger cracks and blank-looking face climbs. Note: the selection of routes covered here includes a few ‘highball’ boulder problems, but the vast amount of bouldering below the edge is listed elsewhere.
Conditions and Aspect: The south edge has a northwest orientation, meaning that sunshine is a rare visitor here — little or none for much of the year and only in the late afternoon and evening during the summer months — which makes it a great venue for hot days. Lichen is obviously a bigger problem here than on the northern edge, but the better climbs are usually in good condition once the winter rains have subsided.
Note: although this group of topos is named ‘Burbage South Routes’, we have also featured a number of the more notable boulder problems, especially those which lie on the edge itself, rather than in the boulder fields below. More detailed coverage of Burbage South's bouldering can be found elsewhere on 27Crags.