🧭 A North-facing cool crag north of El Chorro. The crag sits higher than the other El Chorro crags and thus provides cooler temperatures. At the other end of the Caminito del Rey and the river that travels through the El Chorro Gorge.
🧗♂️ Mainly overhanging climbing with some of the best routes in El Chorro and Distinctly different to other crags in the area.
🌞 The walls face north west so Desplomilandia is the place to go on hot and sunny days. Basically Desplomilandia is the only crag that can be climbed in the summer.
❄️Temperatures in the winter can be close to zero in the morning.
👶 Family friendly
SECTORS (from right to left, west to east)
1 - La Boda 👰♀️
A less traveled newer sector accessed via sector Buena Sombra, with mainly vertical climbing. Quite a few new routes have been bolted recently! At busy times this area is much quieter than the rest.
2 - Buena Sombra ⛱️
Probably the most popular of Desplomilandia sectors due to the shortest access from parking. Climbing on vertical rock littered with narrow ledges that give some rest and make the routes less sustained. The left side of the sector has harder long overhanging climbs.
3 - Tocho del Acebuche 🌳
A mini sector with a few climbs, on the way to sector Como la Vida Misma.
4 - Next level⬆️
A newer and less traveled sector with vertical climbing, uninspiring compared to the routes of the "Como la Vida Misma" close by.
5 - Como la Vida Misma
The concentration of the best climbing in Desplomilandia and maybe El Chorro. Many 5-6c routes on vertical rock and a lot of 6bs and 7as on slightly overhanging terrain. Home to the best 7C in El Chorro: Sandokan ⭐⭐⭐ .
6 - El Cable 🔌
A fine lowering section of cliff with a good selection of pitches, both short and long. All the routes are on excellent rock and in a very beautiful setting. The routes of grade range 5 - 6b might be a trickier for the grade.
7 - El Triangulo 🔺
The distinct triangle wall left of El Cable, at the top of the road. Shorter hard routes with some really good high sevens and low eights. The rock is pocketed with few obvious footholds and the odd section of tufa.
8 - Tajo del Cabrero 🐐 (Limited access. Forbidden to climb from 15th of January till 31of July)
Trad and aid. Topo in progress.
9 - Metecaña (Limited access. Forbiden to climb from 15th of January till 31of July)
This sector is not yet described in this guide.
10 - Pozo de la Mona
A sector far to the left, not within walking distance. A nice set of vertical routes in the 5-6 grades on the left hand side and great overhanging sevens on the right hand side. Some new routes have been established in the far right of this sector, not yet drawn in topo pictures.
