Description

Very popular sport climbing crags with routes in all grades.

ASPECT AND CLIMATE
Hållsunga is facing northwest and is in the sun after 2 pm. Most of the routes dry fast.
Bräcke’s left part faces south and can be quite warm during sunny days. The right part faces east and comes into the shade during early afternoon. The crag is sheltered by thick pine forest so at least the belayer is in the shade. Despite the thick forest the crag doesn’t feel claustrophobic and most of the routes dry fast after rain. Unfortunately, the ground below the crag dries slowly which means muddy shoes and mosquitoes.
The area is also popular among ticks so check yourself after a climbing day here (the ticks in the area are vectors for tickborne encephalitis!).
If you feel like swimming after climbing, there is a nice place in Kovikshamn. To get there, drive past turning for Hållsunga and then follow the signs for Kovikshamn till the road ends.

THE ROUTES
In Hållsunga you’ll find both slabby, vertical and overhanging climbing for everyone (e.g. all kind of grades can be found here). All routes are bolted and equipped with lower-offs.
Most of the bolts and lower-offs in Hållsunga have been paid by the local climbing gym and shop High Sport/Klätterfabriken (www.highsport.se). The climbing in Bräcke is vertical or overhanging and most of the routes are in the upper grades. All routes but one are bolted and equipped with lower-offs.

History

Both Hållsunga and Bräcke were developed mostly during 2002 by Ludwig Hansson and Jens Larssen.

Kärna

The area is access sensitive!

At Hållsunga park only at the marked parking lot not close to any buildings.

Pay for the parking at the box uphill towards the crag.

There is no good parking spot at Bräcke, it is recommended to use the parking for Hållsunga.

Check even https://access.bergsport.se/hallsunga/ and https://access.bergsport.se/bracke/.

🚗
From Göteborg take motorway E6 northwards. Leave the motorway at exit 86, Kungälvsmotet (signs for Marstrand) and follow road 168 towards Ytterby. In Ytterby, turn left towards Kärna. In Kärna, turn right at the T-junction and then directly left at the roundabout. Follow the road for about 3 km and then turn left (signs for Hållsunga). After about 800 m drive along the gravelled road, you should be able to spot the crag to the left (above the tree tops). Thanks to very cooperative landowners (make sure they stay that way!) you can park on the field directly by their house (keep low profile and put SEK 20 in the box!).
The drive is about 36 km.
🚶‍♀️
From the car park follow the path past the beehives and after some minutes you should arrive at the crag.
The parking situation in the vicinity of Bräcke is very unclear. Therefore, it is recommended to park at the same parking lot as for Hållsunga. The walk from there to the crag is around 2 km only (see map for directions).