A large and popular crag with a lot of nice and long routes. Lexby is mostly visited because of its trad routes (you will find Göteborg’s hardest trad routes here) and two long bolted multi-pitch routes.
ASPECT AND CLIMATE
The crag is mostly facing south (2 sectors are facing southwest). Its lower part is shaded by trees and the routes here dry slower (but still relatively fast) than on the open upper part. As always, the cracks get dry more slowly than the face climbs.
THE ROUTES
Climbing in Lexby is mostly slabby and vertical. There are both naturally protected and bolted routes in most grades. The bolted ones are equipped with lower-offs while only some of the trad ones have lower-offs. There are a number of lower-offs at the top of the crag. The routes are up to 70 m.
Lexby is most known for its hard trad routes and bolted multi-pitches (the later are often climb several days during good weather).
THE SECTORS
Bäckarna and Sometimes are relatively new sectors with mostly bolted routes in easier grades.
Multipitch is mostly known for its long (up to 70 m) routes of which Så som i himmelen is the best with daily ascents.
Extaz is the sector just left of the fence (very close to the houses, keep very low profile). most of the routes here are naturally protected.
Stracciatella is to the right of the fence with a mix of bolted and naturally protected routes.
Hyllorna is a complex ledge system above sector Stracciatella. The routes here are short. There are bolted routes in the sector, but the naturally protected ones dominate. There are also a number of lower-offs in this area for top rope climbing. You can also find a set up for highlining in the area.
Stora väggen is unfortunately divided by a big ledge in the middle. The lower part is most about hard bolted and mixed routes while the upper part is a heaven for trad climbers with some of the guide's best (and hardest) naturally protected routes.
Höger is just right of Stora väggen and is a high sector with some easy naturally protected routes.
Lexby gård and Partille Arena are two recently (2018) developed sectors in the right part of Lexby. There are both naturally protected and bolted routes at these sectors.
