Distinct from most other venues on the Peninsula, the seaside bouldering provides a unique atmosphere all it's own along the shoreline of Llandudno beach. Like most old Cape granite the rock is simply a congealed mass of random debris and crystal fragments where you'll be assured of the typical friction-dependant slabs and nigh impossible steep faces, yet thanks to their long bombardment by the elements over the years a fair range of cracks and features also sculpt these rocks ensuring a more diverse range of climbing is found on fat slopers, cracks and edged rock. This long aquatic history has left the rock fairly rough, so bring along your best set of fingertips or take it slow to see out the day.
Many boulders have climber friendly landings, no sand and a flat base allowing a single pad to suffice if that is all you have, though for the perfect day out the more pads the better, as there are some truly large boulders to be found here with rocky landings.
The flat landings and accessible lines make it perfect for a peaceful days climbing alongside the ocean for the whole family. If you're looking for some good waves then pack in your board as Llandudno is also a popular local surfing spot, but throw in a wet-suit as the water is icy cold, though a daredevil dip in-and-out is definitely not out of the question on a hot summer day…
ASPECT AND CONDITIONS
There is essentially one main area at Llandudno called Beachside where, despite the name, the bouldering takes place off the beach that has great flat solid landings so no worrying about getting your shoes full of sand.
It is best to climb during the winter months when there's a gentle wind blowing as conditions can get quite schlauky if a strong northerly is howling. Though you can really climb all year round with a gentle breeze on a hot summers day more than a welcome partner.
BOLTED ROUTES
TAKE NOTE - the old SUICIDE-BOLTS on most of the sport routes are no good for anything but route guidance now, anyone relying on them for a fall is playing a deadly game with their life.
We have included some of the bolted routes for posterity's sake only even though most have now been bouldered and so we have included the bouldering grade as well as the sport route grade and number of (old) bolts. This does not mean we agree with bolting lines at Llandudno on every boulder. For instance the Guardian Angel line should never have been bolted, it could clearly have been bouldered and made for a fantastic problem. The sport route on The Egg we can understand as that wall would more than likely never have been bouldered. The 80's and 90's sport routes around the American Dream Wall are a part of history so we felt it relevant to include them even though most have been bouldered. The three sport routes on the Crystal Clear Boulder from years gone by are also not good bouldering material and we have included those as well.
