Description

This is a rather small but nice overhanging about twelve meters high very compact smooth and solid crag with a two-minute approach from parking. This crag is located in a small undisturbed forest area near a horse paddock and field with allotments (koloniträdgårdar). The wall is north-facing and is one of the few possible alternatives on hot summer days in Stockholm.

The climbing is intense and quite technical right from the start, which means that there is a lot of climbing even on the shorter routes. This crag is best suited if you climb around 7b-8a, the easier routes on the flanks function more as warming-up routes, and they are quite mossy from time to time. Higher up on the right part the moss can grow pretty fast (ok at the moment 2021-06-19). Other parts do better, but still, bring a brush as it can be a bit messy on top. Mosquito repellent can be good to bring.

It is easy to bring the children here because the crag is close to the car park and the ground in the forest is flat and safe.

Environment:
North-facing wall. The crag is located quite nicely in a forest, and the area next to the wall is
pretty free from bushes and vegetation. The crag dries fairly quickly in summer, but after long
rainy periods, it is probably vice to wait a couple of days before climbing. Some trees were cut down in front of the wall (2022/2023), making the environment a bit more open and lighter.

History

Mikael Widerberg was tipped about a crag by Moritz Kiewitt around 1998 and started drilling up a couple of difficult climbs in the middle of the crag. However, Mikael was ill and untrained and could not finish. Mikael then tipped other climbers and the only one responding with some action was as usual Johan Luhr.