Great sport climbing crag and the outdoor climbing gym number one in Stockholm. The routes are about 20-25 meters long, mostly overhanging, and offer plenty of bolted sport routes in all grades and angles, many considered the best climbs in Stockholm. The routes are often sustained and pumpy. The south wall is quite long and even though you have to scrabble upward in steep terrain the wall keeps its height almost all the way to the last route. In recent years, a large number of easier and less steep routes have been added to the sector down the road (Svaväggen). As a sport climbing crag, Örnberget is complete and essentially functions as a natural outdoor gym for all levels.
Bolts are scattered all over the wall and some routes have an insane number of variations and linkups hence sometimes making route-finding demanding.
This is not a very beautiful crag and stones of different sizes quite commonly fall down from the wall when routes are climbed, so watch out! A helmet is recommended and keep the children far away from the wall.
On Svaväggen down at the road where the easiest routes are, the rock is usually more solid.
The cliff has a short approach and there are plenty of parking spaces.
Environment:
The main wall (Sydväggen) is south-facing and gets quite warm in summer, but late afternoon and evenings work well. Trees give shade only here and there. Mostly block terrain at the base of the rock. Most of the rock dries up fast after rain and some routes are certainly climbable during some light rainfall.
The easier routes on the west-facing wall might be a bit slippery on hot summer days. Svaväggen is located along i little road, so be careful not to step out on the road. Remember to climb gently and avoid tearing down gravel, rocks or branches on the road.