Description

Great sport climbing crag and the outdoor climbing gym number one in Stockholm. The routes are about 20-25 meters long, mostly overhanging, and offer plenty of bolted sport routes in all grades and angles, many considered the best climbs in Stockholm. The routes are often sustained and pumpy. The south wall is quite long and even though you have to scrabble upward in steep terrain the wall keeps its height almost all the way to the last route. In recent years, a large number of easier and less steep routes have been added to the sector down the road (Svaväggen). As a sport climbing crag, Örnberget is complete and essentially functions as a natural outdoor gym for all levels.
Bolts are scattered all over the wall and some routes have an insane number of variations and linkups hence sometimes making route-finding demanding.

This is not a very beautiful crag and stones of different sizes quite commonly fall down from the wall when routes are climbed, so watch out! A helmet is recommended and keep the children far away from the wall.
On Svaväggen down at the road where the easiest routes are, the rock is usually more solid.

The cliff has a short approach and there are plenty of parking spaces.

Environment:
The main wall (Sydväggen) is south-facing and gets quite warm in summer, but late afternoon and evenings work well. Trees give shade only here and there. Mostly block terrain at the base of the rock. Most of the rock dries up fast after rain and some routes are certainly climbable during some light rainfall.
The easier routes on the west-facing wall might be a bit slippery on hot summer days. Svaväggen is located along i little road, so be careful not to step out on the road. Remember to climb gently and avoid tearing down gravel, rocks or branches on the road.

History

The first activity on this crag was an Aid route (Nattskiftet) that was put up on the lower part of Sydväggen. It was made in complete darkness by Jan Liliemark, Björn Bergström and Christer Åstrand. The first free accent was made in 1982 when the route "I stället för Lidingöloppet" (trad) where climbed by Lars Grankvist. After that, the activity accelerated when Eva Selin and Anders Lundahl in the mid-80s started to develop the crag with some very nice classics. After a while, Johan Luhr joined the party and made many nice and hard routes. Some of them were chipped which caused some debate among the climbing community.

For quite a long time Örnberget was considered a crag only for the strongest and best climbers in Stockholm, but quite recently Andreas Andersson and Peter Yakubenko started to develop Svaväggen. They did a hell of a job cleaning and brushing that very dirty slabface and came out with many well-protected easier routes. Some rebolting has also been done on Västväggen and parts of Sydväggen, and thanks to that many forgotten routes now frequently are being climbed.

Örnberget

The area is access sensitive!

The main parking spot is at the Boat Club about 300 meters before the crag. A new extra parking is also located right next to the cliff, but there is only room for 4 cars here. DO NOT PARK ELSEWHERE ALONG THE ROAD, IT IS FORBIDDEN.

Parking is ONLY allowed at signposted parking spaces. It is not allowed to park along the road that passes the cliff.

If you go with public transport: Take the commuter train to Tullinge station (22 min from T-centralen (Stockholm), and then walk (15 min) to the crag from the station.
Stockholm Public Transport homepage (SL): https://sl.se/

http://access.klatterforbundet.se/en/ornberget