This cliff is a truly outstanding piece of rock, unique in its position, orientation, rock type, and quality. At first glance, it seems as though the climbing revolves primarily around cracks, but the reality is that the majority of the routes are crimp-oriented, especially on the far left and far right of the wall.
The crag presents as a perfectly straight, 90-degree vertical face with a north-west orientation, situated right on a south-facing beach. With the luxury of climbing in the shade all day and taking dips in the sea in between sessions, what more could you ask for? Oh, and of course, the approach is less than five minutes.
While there are more lines on the upper level, the rock quality, bolting, and grading simply don't compare to the world-class standard of the main cliff.
The first documented route on the Paligremnos cliff (Fodele) was put up by Dimitris Korres and Yiorgos Martzoukos in 1979 as a trad. line. Throughout the 80s a more lines were established in the same style.
The majority of the modern sport climbing routes were developed between 2006 and 2008 mainly by A. Mavromatis, R. Kosir, and M. Kambourakis.
In the summer of 2023 a team around A. Mavromatis rebolted the whole cliff with titanium glue in bolts which should make it safe for the next many years again.
Also in 2023, the Paligremnos cliff was declared a monument of Natural and Cultural Heritage. This followed a major campaign by the "Save Paligremnos – SOS Plakias" group to block a hotel development that would have closed the crag to the public.
