Description

Träskberget is a quite long rock formation with a total length of one km, located along the eastern side of Lake Ällmora träsk in the valley that forms the extension of Dyvik. The main part of the climbing is located at the southern end of the lake and partly along a swamp. The total length of all the various sectors is around 300 meters. The character and style of the climbing vary greatly, and depending on which sector you choose you will find everything from slaby naturally protected and fully bolted easier routes as well as very steep and entertaining overhanging bolted sport climbs.

There are seven sectors located in a long row at Träskberget:

Lilla Träskberget, Greenpeace-väggen and D’evenin’ väggen (all three walls included in the description below):
Compact slabby face with quite many great crack lines. Mostly natural protected routes but up to ten fully bolted climbs as well. Mostly very good rock quality. Although quite many of the obvious cracks are well protected there are still many challenging lines demanding a more skillful and experienced climber. Very good sectors for beginners and courses and of course anyone longing for some cracks. Many routes are newly cleaned, but bring a brush as the moss grows pretty fast.

Överhängande väggen:
Brutal steep overhanging rounded formations with some cracks. Routes between 10-20 meters high. Mixed and some fully bolted routes, although some renovation in many cases would make this sector much better.

Stora Träskberget
Mostly well-bolted overhanging sports routes. The main attraction in this sector is the 10-15 meters high heavily overhanging part in the middle. Often very intense non-stop climbing with a lot of interesting moves like; side-pulls, body twists, undercuts, heel hooks, compression techniques etc. Very cool! Generally good bolts, but sometimes anchors are missing, or maybe it's just one bolt at the top.
At the beginning of this sector, there are some short steep sports routes with a slaby top out that are quite okay, although often wet. Take the opportunity to climb these if they are dry. Bring a brush as the top might be a bit mossy. Above this often wet part of the sector, there is an up to 30-meter-high slab face that looks quite amazing.

Vox populi:
Around 13 meters high steep overhanging bolted routes with a straightforward bouldery yet sustained and intense type of style along some cracks and edges. Mostly good rock quality, but it can vary. Well bolted, but anchors are of varying quality and art. Be careful with ropes and stuff hanging on top. During snowmelt or heavy rainfall, the water level around sector Vox populi can rise, but it is usually possible to get to the desired route, anyway.

Liten vägg:
A tiny overhanging little sector with four short OK routes. Not an attractive location.

Environment:
Southwest. There are some trees in front of the walls, but higher up on the face it is probably quite sunny, although some of the steeper routes might be more sheltered by the trees. A spring day in April/May is usually a very good time for a visit. In summer, a cloudy day is probably the best. The nature and the forest at Träskberget are very special and you are surrounded by a very interesting, restful and a bit magical atmosphere. Don't forget the mosquito oil!

Träskberget

The area is access sensitive!

Träskberget is now part of Telegrafberget's nature reserve. It is not permitted to replace or install new bolts without a permit. Drilling in old holes can be allowed when changing old bolts after permission from the municipal. However, the boundary of the reserve runs between D´evenin and the Overhanging Wall, which means that the sectors south of D´evenin are outside the reserve boundary.

Directions:
Take road 229 towards Tyresö. Pass McDonald's at Bollmora / Tyresö and continue towards the Tyreö peninsula. When you pass the exit road to Tyresö church, the road changes its name to Breviksvägen but just continue another 8 km on the same road.
Turn right onto Öringshamnsvägen. Park on the left side a couple of hundred meters further ahead just before Lillängsvägen. Enter Lillängsvägen. Turn right after 60 meters. Continue about 100 meters straight ahead along a wide path with ledges, then turn left just before a house, onto a path that you follow up a hill and over the top. The path then leads out to the top of the cliff. Keep left when the path splits for the first time and a few meters later keep right. If you're a little lucky now, you're on the path that leads to the descent between D’evenin ’and the Greenpeace wall. Keep left to reach the descent between the Overhanging wall and Stora Träskberget (short climbing passage).

Public transport: Bus from Gullmarsplan to Mossvägen.