Tumbaklippan

HUVUDVÄGGEN (Main wall)
Vertical to slightly overhanging 8-12 meter high sports crag with about twenty recently renovated routes and some newly developed ones. All routes are fully bolted and equipped with anchor on top. Tumbaklippan is very easily accessible with excellent parking opportunities just 100 meters from the wall. The rock is firm and compact with an unusually high quality for being a crag in Stockholm, although some of the routes can be a bit sharp and crimpy.

The best range is between 6b+ to 7a+. In this range, there are a lot of fun routes to climb. However, be prepared that the climbing is quite tricky and intense sometimes, which requires high demands on footwork and balance, hence the routes will probably put up much more resistance than what you would expect. A couple of easier new routes are also being completed, which will make this crag more complete.
The old mixed routes to the right of the main wall are now fully bolted. From the beginning, they were protected almost exclusively with pitons and some occasional fixed gear.

It's easy to get up on the ledge above the routes located to the left of the wall if you want to set up a toprope. Just walk/climb up to the left of the route; "Bättre än dålig men sämre än bra". You can access the routes all the way to "Nuke the Yuppies" from this ledge. To access the other anchors, you need to go around the entire crag to the right. There is a suitable path that leads straight up into the woods directly from the walkway when you come from the parking lot. You might need to rappel down a bit to reach the anchors.

ENVIRONMENT
Southwest, shaded by some trees. The rock usually needs a couple of days to dry if it has rained a lot (Huvudväggen), but Svaväggen dries much faster, so go to that sector if it is a bit damped at Huvudväggen. It is excellent to bring children to this crag, although some pieces of glass can be found in the grass here and there at Huvudväggen. You can shout and live about how much you want by the wall because there is otherwise some shoal and noise from football pitches, playgrounds, etc, nearby.

SVAVÄGGEN
Eight to eleven meters high wall with one section located openly along a walkway and another part that is located a bit hidden behind some trees. Newly completely renovated. Remarkably good rock quality. All routes are fully bolted and equipped with an anchor on top. This sector dries relatively fast and also faster than the main wall. Very child-friendly place. There is also a playground 50 meters from the wall that is being built.

TROLLVÄGGEN
Quite interesting and very formation-rich overhanging smaller sector with stacked boulders and blocks that give short, hard, and very steep routes. Decently clean from the moss as the routes are very overhanging, but there may be some moss at the top. Just one bolt on top of the routes.

Tumbaklippan has really changed in popularity over the years. The first leads were made by Daniel Bidner, Lena Helmersson and Mikael Wegrelius in 1985. Among other things, they made the steep and fun route "Enslingen" (6c). A few years later, Thomas and Gerry Hansson appeared and developed the cool left part of the Main Wall. These routes are of a very high class and offer an exclusive and unique climbing experience, at least for being in the Stockholm area, that must not be missed, with climbing that requires good skills when it comes to balance, footwork, finger strength and focus.

Johan Luhr and Rikard Hedman appeared with the drill in 1989. Rikard made perhaps one of the crag's best routes - Ultra Pampers plus (7a). The route follows an "invisible" line with scattered but slightly hidden holds. Johan made the steep pillar in the middle of the wall. Ten years later Mikael Widerberg saw a haunting unmade line, which resulted in the surprisingly fine XM1 (6b+).

In 2004, Johan also began to develop Trollväggen and made a number of short and difficult routes.

The routes at Tumbaklippan were sparsely protected from the beginning. A couple of bolts or a couple of pitons and a single fixed wire were all that was offered. However, the bolt committee made an effort and replaced some bolts and mounted a couple of anchors in the year 2000. They did not exaggerate their work and the distance between the bolts was still quite sparse, unfortunately. The situation still improved somewhat and the crag received some visits for a couple of years. The right part of the wall was left untouched and that part was already very much contested by moss and not climbable.

After that one can probably say that the rock more or less died. The moss grew more lush than ever and a forest with sly and small shrubs in front of the wall completely suppressed the desire to climb. In 2021 some climbers visited the crag and they were pleasantly surprised. It seemed as if all the sly and shrubbery in front of the wall had somehow disappeared (unclear how). After a quick test-climbing, there was no question that this rock would be fixed and made climbable again.