Description

Cervoland 🚶‍♂️ 15' - ⛰️ 1800 MSL - 🧭 N/E/S/W - ☀️ boulders are sunny
Val di Fumo 🚶‍♂️ 120' - ⛰️ 2000 MSL - 🧭 N/E/S/W - ☀️ boulders are sunny
Placca Ervina 🚶‍♂️ 50' - ⛰️ 2200 MSL - 🧭 S/SE - ☀️ almost all day

Daone valley is the dreamland of every boulderer!
It is narrow river valley starting from the Adamello glaciers, where it is possible to admire the natural beauty of waterfalls and forests and the characteristic villages.
The valley extends from the small village of Daone, runs along the artificial lakes of Boazzo and Bissina and ends in the so called Val di Fumo.
Daone features a varied vegetation and many small creeks, the perfect home to many wild animals, in particular ungulates as deer and roe deer. It is suitable for relaxing walks for the whole family.
During Winter, the many torrents turn into beautiful ice-falls, which are highly frequented by those who practice ice climbing. During Summer and the mid-seasons, the valley becomes the kingdom of boulderers thanks to thousands of problems of all difficulties on an incredible high quality granite. The boulders are spreaded among quiet pine forests, on green meadows and also on the shores of the small mountain lakes. The problems reported in the topo were cleaned and climbed by climbers coming from all over the world, but Daone still has a lot of potential. Meetings as “GraMitico” and “Cleanforclimb” have been hosted in the valley during the last years and gave an important contribution in the discovery of new lines. Please do not hesitate to tell us if you spot something new!!
The area is often cold thanks to its altitude (over 1000 meters) and north exposure, so generally the climbing season starts in March when the snow melts. In this period the boulders may be a little dirty, but do not worry, give a couple of brushes and they will come back like new!
Summer is also a good season for bouldering here and the area is a good refuge from the heat of the surrounding valleys.

Let’s spend a few more words to describe the climbing in Daone. You can find almost every style in the valley since the amount of boulders is crazy. High-balls, slabs, powerful overhangs, slopers, crimps, perfect cracks and knobs. Yes, the knobs are particular holds having the shape of small mushrooms that are characteristic of Daone’s granite. There are also some sector with sport routes and multi-pitches.

This topo collects two nice sectors and a small sport sector in the Val di Fumo valley.
Cervoland has few interesting boulders close to the lake of Malga Bissina at an average altitude of 1800 meters above sea level. The rock quality is good and the landscape over the lake is great. The approach lasts about 15 minutes on a well defined path. Boulders are sunny and dry quickly after the rain.
Val di Fumo is a small sector nestled in the middle of the valley. The long approach (2 hours) will be paid off by the beauty of the area. Boulders are huge, clean and take a lot of sun. The refuge of Val di Fumo is 20 minutes away, so it could be a good accommodation if you want to spend a couple of days here. The sector is located at about 2000 meters of altitude so the Summer heat will not be a problem here.
Finally, Placca Ervina is a small sport routes sector offering 9 lines from 5 to 6b grades. The anchors have rings and no carabiners. Routes have close protections and are really technical, the perfect field for beginners. Some routes have steeper sections, requiring a bit more strength.
The approach to the wall is quite long, but the alpine area is really stunning. Thanks to its height of 2200 meters above sea level, temperatures are fresh even during Summer.

Val di fumo is really beautiful, you will be amazed by nature, lakes and rivers. The walk along the valley is not demanding, since the area is mainly flat, and is particularly suitable for children.
Remember that camping is not allowed in Daone. Please help to keep this dreamland clean!

History

Every year new lines are discovered in the valley by climbers from all over the world, but the potential for new problems is still amazing! Meetings as “GraMitico” and “Cleanforclimb” aim to discover new boulders and are held every year to sensitize people to keep the valley and the lines clean. So let’s brush all together, brush brush brush!!!

Placca Ervina was developed in the middle of 2012 by Associazione Outdoor Liguria team, sponsored by the C.A.I. of Cassano d'Adda.