Joachim Finzel

nice climb with better holds than you might think... protection seems a bit poor though...

cool steep variant to Ättestupan. Yet only one long reach directly at the last bolt (possibly easier if you are tall), then nice and easy big jug (and handjam) climbing until top. It seemed easier than 6a to me. Protection is excellent by a number of easily placed nuts/cams.

A smooth vertical wall and a groove with steps carved into it. Just to facilitate a really exposed but well doable climb... unbelievable but true. 5 Stars out of 3

grade 5 (Schlyter guidebook) - You gotta be kidding! After some desperate efforts to get off the ground, I aid-climbed the first two meters (free climbed probably something like 6b imho) Even after that it does not really feel like a five, more like 6a/6a+.

maybe grade 4+ once you are 2m above the ground... to get there is quite a bit harder. laybacking with poor footholds on a steeep wall... the upper part is a nice crack (hands)

good crack climbing (hand, finger) but hard for 5+.

nice crack, yet more layback/wall climbing than jamming. fin spricka, men tyvärr mera layback/väggklättring än jamming.

really cool moves on the arete

possibly 1st acent, since I removed quite some moss first and the climb was not listed here. If it has been done before, please correct me. crux is to get off the ground (layback move) then easier.

incredible climb on the smooth vertical wall with the huge flakes. great!

nice crack with good handjams. good protection with friends/nuts everywhere. Fine!

Nice crack with infinite possbilities to place gear.

great climb on super solid rock. protection is good, but not overprotected. fine fine fine!

the hardest moves on the left part of Målstena. Still well doable (even for 4c/5a imho)

according to Schlyter-guidebook 4+ (which can only be some joke imho) sparsely potected svaclimbing on the first 15 meters, then a short but overhanging wall which is at least 5+ and also not so well protected. I cannot recommend this...

short but very nice easy crack. good rotection with small friend(s)

Probably quite a bit easier when you are tall. I cannot really climb a 'real' 6b+

Hard start, then somewhat typical Ågelsjön crack climbing: no good jams and constantly hoping that the friction on the wall is good enough to keep your feet in place. Good protection. All in all a good route.

hard start, the easier scrambling... ok, but nothing special.

Somehow strange climbing, but good pro.

wonderful hand jamming crack with thousands of good cam placements. Yet imho easier than 5c, as there are good jams + good footholds throughout the whole route. Also Easier than the first two Pelaren pitches. (5a(-b))

according to guidebook 5c. In fact I found this route easier than spindelmans kyss on the right (both in torope). Chain anchor an be used to toprope both routes.

interesting moves on the arete.

nice boulder, yet only one hard move (which is also no really hard) at the start, then big holds. It seemed a lot easier than 6a to me, but I am not so familiar with boulder gradings, so 5 is just a guess.

Strange climbing. It looks easy, but I found it quite hard, altough very well protected. It is especially annoying, that there are no real footholds on the wall and the crack leans to the right. (5+) seems more adequate than the (5) in the Schlyter-guidebook (as compared to Divaleden or Raggiga Rune e. g.)

If I were to write in German here, I would know exactly how to desctibe tho route in one word: 'ungängig'. Pa Svenska kanske 'bökigt'. In English: Somehow awkward climbing, not really doable for 5- (Schlyter-guidebook) No good jamming in the crack, no footholds on the walls, no real rest positions... Protection is good, though. I did not like this route.

nice short climb. crux is to reach the crack. Protection is ok.

short but nice

2nd bolt is placed a bit low and 3rd a bit high (for whatever reasons) Apart from that an interesting easier wall climb.

Nice climbing, but no 'big line', especially with the last meter in the crack to the left...

In the new guidebook: 4+ (which is correct imho). The route is harder than it looks because it is more sva/dieder climbing than crack. Some good placements (small friends).

once the soil and dirt is removed from the crack (which I did partly today) a really fine climb, similar to Dubbelsprickan. Crux in the beginnig, finger crack. Further up it gets easier. Well protected with nuts and friends. Dry conditions recommended.

nice svaklättering. the 4th bolt is placed a bit too high imho...

Nice climb with a short but imo relatively hard crux up the vertical part of the dihedral. Well protected with some nuts.

nice crack with good hand jams.

great line in an extraordinary position. Mostly finger crack with some hand jams and some layback. Solid rock, good protection. Imho a perfect 10/10 :-)

nice line, the easiest at this crag. many good nut- and friend- placements possible. Still not really a 3-star-route.

good climb, good protection. Easier than Divaleden

Very hard for 5- as stated in the guidebook. Brilliant finger-crack climbing, on a smooth wall. Unfortunately the small footholds tend to become polished. I found good placements throughout the whole route (small friends and nuts)

Nice route, yet only one single sketchy hard move. The rest is fun and 4-5.

3 stars in the guidebook probably because it has a lot of bolts. Apart from that a nice route but not outstanding in any way.

Fine route. Interestig overhang that turns out easier than it looks. Afterwards a very pleasand slab. Protection is good with 3 bolts at the neuragic points. Some small friends/nuts may be used to supplement (but not essential)

nice, big holds, many bolts... yet not a route to remember for long.

interesting climb, first technical diedral, then steep wall with good holds. three stars in the guidebook are yet too much for this rather short climb.

very strange, that this brilliant crack route has no stars in the guidebook... imho THE line here. climbing the smoth offwidth part is a bit awkward, but well protected by 2 bolts. The rest of the route is fun with good natural protection.

nice route. good jamming, good placements.