Juha Lipponen

Spicy boulder, with some delicate moments on the cool off.

Old school 5+. My idea of a "perfect hand crack" is quite different. The flake is not quite as bad as it looks.

Nice climbing, indoor style.

Sustained face climbing on small holds with a couple of thin moves. Felt much harder than 40-års krisen (6+). Maybe I need to work on my calf endurance :) I might have tried this years ago.

Well protected and very nice climbing. Nuts can be used instead of micro cams.

Good climbing!

Contains secret delights. Also works with sit start.

Used the right side block a bit in the topout.

Short but nice, climbable with sitstart feet on main boulder or without (easier).

Nice climbing but the topout has been only minimally cleaned, which makes it definitely not suitable for someone who wants to climb boulders at grade 4.

One move wonder, but cool.

Somewhat sketchy and dirty topout.

Great climbing with sitstart, somewhat hairy top-out for the grade.

Artesanal routefinding and continuous climbing. Had rappeled the line after climbing the neighbouring line so flash.

Awkward crux. Dor some strange reason there is an extra bolt above the second roof, clipping of which will make life very complicated for the leader. The end would be much nicer to climb hands on arete, but it was completely covered in lichen. I brushed it a bit, now it might be ok to climb.

Trusting the friction is very much the name of the game here. Some holds you would like to pull turn out to be loose. The left-side dihedral alternative on 5th pitch (end of Sagostunden) provides a spicy finish. Led pitches 2,3,4 and 5.

Second go. Not easy to onsight.

Hard crux, otherwise very pleasant climbing.

Seized a rare opportunity when saw this free of guided groups. Exceptionally pleasant jug hauling even compared to sport routes, with a couple of not-so-straightforward sections. Flash since had rappelled the line before.

Amazingly airy climbing. Somewhat hard and committing crux.

Proper adventure! Took a fall and rest on second pitch. Mostly good climbing, seems many variants are possible. Upper pitches have loose rock. Make sure you check and understand the walk exit if you are planning this route.

First 7b! Powerful, bouldery moves.

2nd go, foot slipped on first try. Would be worth 2 stars without the loose holds, which are quite crucial. I would advise the belayer to stand a meter or so on the right of the bolt line to avoid catching the loose holds on the face when they come off.

Good climbing for the grade and length of the route.

Couple of hard moves for the grade, otherwise easy.

2nd go. Distinct technical cruxes with nice climbing in between. Did not find the mentioned difficult clip on 8th bolt, clipping was ok for the grade in my opinion. The hanger on 7th bolt was spinning a bit, we considered it still trustworthy though.

2nd grade course in jamming. Great learning experience, I'll climb it again when I need a refresher.

Somewhat dirty but ok to climb. Climbing and protection is much better than it looks.

First try after getting to first bolt (slippery!)(which I had onsighted earlier for bensaa suonissa), flash after that.

Some hesitation where to step right, eventually went somewhere between bolts 1 and 2 where it looked most climbable.

Now here is some proper slab climbing. Holds seem to accumulate some sand in higher section, due to bare sand slope at the top.

Mostly covered with lichen but still climbable. Somewhat runout feeling. Pre-clip would not be a bad idea. Probably more difficult for someone shorter than me (175 cm).

Proper wrestling.

Pretty bouldery.

Almost enjoyable for a slab route :)

Seconded. The last (optional) part from three anchor to top is definitely solid 5+.

Seconded

Short but intensive.

Nice climbing! Too bad it's a bit short.

Great handjamming in the start, would be suberb if it was like that all the way. Possible to clean from bolt of neighboring sport route + 0.75 cam behind the boulder. Also possible to traverse right to bolted anchor, 0.2 cam nice to protect the traverse although it's easy.

Seconded

Great sustained climbing. The degree of excitement depends on the rack but is significant in any case. On the second pitch some surface parts seem to be in the process of cracking off although they look very solid at first look.

Good sport climbing with occasional protection. Quite stiff start, othwerwise not difficult if you find the holds and stay calm.

Excellent and exhilarating climbing! Beware of the ticking crocodile!

Seconded first pitch. Pretty nice climbing, exciting at places.

Cramped, slightly overhanging corner-handcrack with offwidth flair. Technical, intense and strenuous. Best route I've climbed in Kustavi. Felt hard, took 3 days and 6 tries.

Varied and challenging climbing in many sizes. It aint over untill it's over!

Nice slab, which is not what I usually say about slabs.

Great climbing!

Nice moves, big moves, delicate moves. Great climbing :)

Lämmittää varmasti kehon ja mielen.

Powerfull, somewhat tricky and slightly painful

First go this year. Probably tried sometimes before.

Beautiful continuous climbing on the extension with smooth but punctual beta. Zero hard or sketchy moves when you get the choreography tuned in.

Proper introduction indeed!

Offers good opportunities to practice your handjam, and also slab climbing in the end.

Surprisingly awkward at places. Offers possibility to practice your handjam.

Best route of the grade that I've climbed!

Pretty nice but inhomogeneous.

Strong faith required.

Beautiful crux pitch! The 2nd pitch shallow crack was also exciting. Led pitches 1, 2 and 5. Start was hard to locate. We started 10-20 m right of a gully, scrambled easy terrain first 30 m to reach a sling anchor. Then 30 m easy climbing to start of 2nd pitch, just right of a gully, 10 m below a large protruding block (easily seen from ground).

Led 2nd pitch.

Best thing to climb in the midsummer eve night! Led pitches 1 and 3.

Mahtavaa vääntöä.

Vähän piti verta vuodattaa.

Vaati hieman treeniä että sai äänen lähtemään.

Tyydyttää kovemmankin makeannälän.

Offwidth workout :)

Crossfit is dead. Long live Crackfit!

Second go. Good, challenging and exciting climbing.

Taste the Havukallio friction.

Nice route. A bit trickier to climb and protect than it looks.

Left side variation. Super nice, easier than it looks.

Seconding.

Nice and exciting!

Kakkostelin. Todella mukavaa kiipeilyä alun jälkeen.

Vasemman kautta. Oli kyllä elämäni tiukoin nelonen.

Tufa wrestling extraordinaire!

Nice climbing but very inhomogenous.

Welcome to the eighties!

Nice trad practice, offers also opportunities to train hand jamming. Best to continue the corner up all the way. Also possible to climb short face to right from the ledge.

Forceful start and quirky nonlinear expansion. Very nice !

Led pitches 2,4,6, took one fall on pitch 2.

Led pitch 3.

Sport climbing with big S! Good holds, big, powerful moves, all the way from start to finish. Did every move on first practice run, the route went on try #15.

Satisfying, airy and steep climbing on good holds. Somewhat scary approach and exit. Route line in photo of Rockfax 2017 topo is wrong for stand 2 and pitch 3, real line is about 5-10 m left of this. Text description is correct. Photo in old Rockfax topo is correct. First pitch is much harder than what topo says (5 or 5+ really), must be a mistake in topo.

Led pitches 4,5,6, 8,9,11,12, took one fall on 9.

Nice route. Take plenty of quickdraws!

Climbed on 2 nd try

Loose rock on first third.

Practice your crack climbing skills.

Very nice easy climbing in the evening sun. There was still snow in Zapferenna and on the scrambling part, but steeper climbing was dry. Started at col, scrambled until start of first steep section, climbed 4 pitches on the arete, ended up at foot of large monolith (visible clearly on the skyline) There would still have been 1 pitch of easy climbing ( crossing first the top part of Zapferenna) + maybe some scrambling to the top. Rappeled two pitches in Zapferenna and then two more pitches from bolted anchors, and scrambled back to the col. Topo is not very clear about where the route goes exactly, at the hut there was old topo photocopy which indicated that the route should deviate right from the arete after the bolted anchors.

Only first pitch, continued other route to top. Bad weather day from skiing, start of outdoor climbing season at Kvaløya. Entire Brensholmen sector completely dry after few days of warm S wind.

Nice continuous climbing, except for rappels and hikes between the towers. Led pitches 2,4,5,7.

Very nice climbing with good holds, it was a bit wet from rain on yesterday.

Excellent, airy climbing with good holds. Well protected.

Intereting off-width near top.

My proper initiation to jamming. This point is as red as they come.

With Eemeli Tikkanen. Lead pitch 2.

With Eemeli Tikkanen. Leading 1,3,5

Great route! With Eemeli Tikkanen. Full 7 pitches. Leading 2,4,6.

With Eemeli Tikkanen. Had to wait two hours at top while guides hauled up ans down a bunch of middle-aged ladies. Fortunately view and weather was not too bad. Leading 1,3

Harder than it looks, I fell 3 m to ground on first attempt.

Finger crack with delicate balance and challenging all the way.

With Murggu.

With Murggu

With Murggu

With Murggu.

Hannele and Henri L seconding. Climbed both pitches of this route, birds are long gone this time of year :)

Had seconded this earlier. Hannele and Henri as seconds.

BETA WARNING! Fell on first attempt after placing first protection ( No 2 friend) in the starting crack. Friend ripped out on impact and I fell all the way to ground, luckily my technical friend Matti happened to be standing close by and softened my fall. No injuries /bruises to anyone. Apparently failure was caused by poor placement. Friend was in uneven crack and apparently twisted/moved to wider section when loaded.

First ice lead ever

Seconded first pitch, lead second pitch.

Had seconded Vita Leden Original earlier so no onsight.

Lead first pitch, seconded second pitch, if I remember right.

First trad lead. Nice and easy route with good protection but first time is always exciting:)

Intricate start and sketchy finish.