Juho Knuuttila

Routes here are definitely not as 'big' as in Ulassai but okey climbing still.

Last route in Ulassai this time. Spikey pockets...

Nice route but too many bolts as you need close to 20 quickdraws.

Sustained technical difficulties with Haukkavuori style boltting. 40m so 70m rope is too short.

Excellent. Powerfull start and exposed slab. Almost full 40m. 2nd go.

First few meters were nice but rest of the route was sharp, crumbly and not three stars.

Big holds, steep terrain, getting hammered by mistral. Hero climbing!

Overhanging razor edge in the end was for sure memorable! One star from climbing and one from the line.

First 7b os in the canyon. 😉 Sustained.

Climbs very well. Very technical and a bit powerful. Learned something new about the crux on every attempt.

2nd go. In need of a rest day! Thin and technical at the start.

Fun!! Took few tries to get through the upper crux.

Fell off from the first move few times. Rest of the route on-sight. So fun!!

Hard for the grade I would say. Third bolt (the only glue in) is loose so I would not climb this route before it's fixed.

Excellent!! A great battle in mistral winds. Splits in three sections with full rests in between.

Didn't like the start but rest of the line was super.

Planned warm up was taken so went straight to this. Continuous but big holds now and then.

2nd

2nd

2nd go.

Basically sport climbing with no hard moves. Pure enjoyment!

Only thing that was dry in the morning. Not too bad. Bouldery start.

Last guiding day in Lofoten for this summer.

On the first go the jug was wet. Cleaned wet moss away and climbed it.

Committing to climb above piles of human shit, without a pad.

Classic.

Not scary, or that bold. But soft. Some nice pitches but most of them are quite wondering. Such a nice day out with Lassi and Ori though.

Fell from the last jugs. Thought that I was on a 6c+ and got mad after falling. Got even more furious when I realised it was this route. 😅 2nd go.

Like 'Ny Tid' in Beachen. Fierce overhang with jugs. Long hero moves. 2nd go

Amazing lower part and end but I wish it wouldn't have a rest in the middle. Then it would be spectacular!

Did P3 and P4 like Jukka described. Seems the most logical way. Last two pitches looked mossy but climb well.

Long approach and even worse descent. Climbing is more adventurous than good. Offwidth pitch is actually the best.

Another good one! Bit more flakey at some parts than Minotauros. Also few more bold'ish face climbing sections.

On-sight for both, me and Sara. Entertaining climbing!

Blääh. Not worth of a hype

Magnificent journey!

Bounced my head against the wall with a wrong foot beta at the crux several times. Route went down as soon as I got it right. Well, what a fun line anyways.

Mega jug fest!

Chikenwings, jug traverse, lazer cut crack and a mantle. And ofc few knee bars included.

Brutal jamming through 30° wall. Thanks Samppa!

Excellent technical and a bit pumpy climbing.

Familiar shoulder move works always. Liked.

Sit start

2nd go. Wrongly drawn in the topo. Route goes all the way to the chains (high right) and extension goes left from that to the anchor of Gullpils.

Endurance is still there after winter!

The crux is to clip the 6th bolt. Good route but bolting sucks.

Continued up the L2 too.

Basicly it doesn't get any harder after the L1. Nice sustained climbing on good holds.

2nd

Not that nice

Warm up for Mari

Bad route

As hard as 7a+'s here

Long powerfull moves between pockets lead to a slab. Steeper climbing in the end too.

Beautiful! Messed my on-sight when I didn't notice a jug.

Power endurance crimp ladder. Perfect. First lead go after one tp round.

Crack climbing skills help. Possible heartbreaker top out.

2nd

2nd

Didn't know I had stamina to climb something like this. Good tufa action to a amazing headwall.

Tufa kneebar wrestling.

Climbing on glass

Like dry tooling. Mega jugs until you cant hold on anymore.

Warm up

Warm up. Too spaced bolting

Excellent! On a flash try fell off from the jugs at the top. 3rd go was the name of the game.

Morning hit before the rain. Like climbing in a jungle.

Like 6c

W. Sara.

W. Sara. Slab with a huge pocket jugs.

Famous traverse on P4 was actually quite nice.

Fun adventure w. Sara.

Sara's new beta made it possible for me. Very cool crux sequence above the gear. Falls are long but soft.

Superdiedret! Second lead go.

What a climb! Slippy and techy corners as a aperitif. Then a huge granite tufa and crimp extravaganza to the top.

Solo to get rope up

Team ascent with Sara.

Powering through after a finger injury and a seven week break from climbing.

All the way to the last bolt.

2nd go

Might often look a bit wet but still climbable. Good first half!

First route of the crag. Powerfull start and airy finish.

Varied line. Overhanging finger crack, juggy corner, exposed hand crack and memorable ending. Needed to fight hard to gain last two meters.

Route just goes on step after step!

School day in big boots.

School day

School day

School day

With a more logical variation on the 2nd pitch. Felt 7+. A bit dirty already.

Solo

Solo

Two stars for the overhanging hand crack after the ledge. Steep!

Powerfull start locates you to a journey to the heart of Häller.

What a magnificent fight!

Full moon ascent.

Kustavi 5+

One tr round to check moves/gear. Then climbed it. Cool moves lead to a hand crack.

Ground up

Very good!

Didnt feel too easy straight after 21h drive from Narvik.

One tr round to check the start

Steep crack leads to a powerfull and technical crux. Could be 7b+ also.

Has some cool sections like the last arete. Lower part is weird.

Odd

2nd go

Otherwise on-sighted except wet pitch #3 which we aided. Normally wouldn't mark this but bold grade seven pitches are the thing. Amazing adventure with Sofie.

Led all. Alpine feel.

Led all.

Star for the crux pitch.

Led all.

Led all.

Led all.

Led all pitches.

Climbed the starting pillar from the left which makes line more continuous. Cool boulder problem high up.

FA with double ropes.

Dirty. Otherwise nice

Voyage! One of the longest routes of the country leads to a almost mythical slab crux. Lenght of the route adds one star.

Full 35m of cruising with fun, steeper crux section. The flake high up can't come off.

Amazing pocket rail! Could be fully bolted?

Don't mind about dirtiness at the start. It gets better quickly and is one of the longest wide cracks in the country.

Amazing climbing. Leaning crack through slightly overhanging terrain. Could almost give three stars.

Spicy first meters. Otherwise steep climbing on big holds!

2nd go

Soolo

First try this year. One go in 2018.

Dangerous. Should be fully bolted.

Tried this one in 2019 when it was still dirty. Now it's clean and climbs nicely. Lacks top anchor tough.

Better than straight line!

Limestone like!

Hieno. Upeita listoja ja solidia kiveä.

Very entertaining!

Straight up to the tree

Better to continue to the anchor on the left.

Akward corner climbing.

One more for Finnish OW tour.

Mother's day send with sparkling wine from passing hikers.

Approach pitch to a roof crack.

First of the grade. Continuous lower part. Felt super nervous after the rest.

Top holds were wet but couldn't resist climbing it after figuring out cool crux moves.