Juri Matinheikki

Siitä katosta näköjään voi tippua, eli suosittelen 5" camun tai isomman mukaan ottamista, niin välttyy tonttipannuilta. Näyttäisi valuttavan täysin kuivallakin kelillä, liekö se syynä jalan äkilliseen lipsahtamiseen?

Siinä on kaikki! Todella monipuolinen reitti, hieno alku ja sitä seuraava chimney. "Kruksi" katon jälkeen, mutta todella hauska sellainen.

Needs lot of brushing. Don't even know why I climbed this, so dirty.

Toka yrkkä, +25 helle yllätti

+25 C

Led the whole thing. Second pitch was harder and more exposed that the last one. Great route except the garden walk after the first pitch.

With Sara and Antti. Led pitch 1 and 3

Just great! Led pitches 1 & 3.

With direct start

Top-roped and then led in the pouring rain. Really nice!

Led the first pitch. Abseil was great!

With wrong second pitch (Lys och Skygge), but the arete itself was nice.

Horrible runout on the 2nd pitch slab otherwise quite well protected. Adventure with capital A.

Route itself was really nice and in beautiful setting. Unfortunately it seems to be local tourist trap and really congested when tourists are hauled up to commit the jump.

Vau, olihan se hieno

Jo oli paini, kauden alussa mahdoton, mutta tänään mukavaa iltapäiväpuhdetta, jammin taikaa alusta loppuun!

Excellent rock quality and nice laybacking!

Just brilliant, continuous climb with nice technical moves, when those figured out never too hard and just flows till the top. The first three stars given!

In two pitches

Beginning was mossy and dirty (brushed it a bit), but the off-width in the end is beautiful and worth the effort!

Surpisingly nice, compact and well-continuous route with good protection!

This one had tempted me since I saw it first time from camping side. Compact but really cool route! Especially the second pitch is extremely good and bit intimidating crack climbing. Third pitch is bit scary, but relatively easy slab climbing. You are also under a looking glass when climbing due to straight view to Kalle camping :) 5+ in the original Lofoten Rock guidebook, but changed to 6- in the 2010 Lofoten Update. The latter might be closer to reality.

Just a perfect climb!! First time did it in nice sunshine and then couple days later in heavy rain and wind, both times almost as enjoyable a one pitch climb can be!

Amazing and compact evening pleasure! Led all the pitches. First one is just perfect, also much harder that 4+ if one is not used to crack climbing.

The first "longer" trad multipitch for me. Super nice and pleasant climbing, never too hard! Five pitches, led pitches 2 & 4.

Nice easy route, would be perfect for trad multipitch training. Nice stands.

Nice and a bit easier alternative for Moonbridge. Really good rock in the ending!

I actually liked this traverse plus nice top-out, despite it was quite mossy. Adventerous climbing at least good practice for it!

Nice one! Would earn more stars without the tree. In couple of years becomes really tight to squeeze through. Do not cut it down though

Hard!

Really nice! Maybe the best 5 grade sport in Kauhala (together with Moonwalk).

Actually surprisingly nice route when dry! Really easy, but bit adventurous, feels more like vertical hiking than climbing.

Loose block in the middle and then quite long runner to the top anchor. So take care. Beginning crack is still very nice!

Surprisingly nice route due to good rock quality. Wish it would be longer though. Felt also bit harder than 5.

Bouldery first move with bad landing. Pad or pre-clip might not be a bad idea.

Managed to ruin OS, 2nd go it was. Nice and well-protected trad climb

Climbed it straight up from the corner since the shelf was wet. Very nice upper part anyway, good lay-back practice!

The day I learned to trust hand and footjams!

Climbed this one on Mother's Day 2015. Possibly climbed before. Please info if someone knows about the original FA and name.

Keep wondering why so few people have climbed it. It was actually quite nice, but a bit mossy at least when wet. Good off-width training!

Bring only 4" and 3" cams and ride on the bulge!

Surprisingly nice, but little short though and mossy. After brushing will make nice short trad climb!

Bit scary when wet

Toproped years ago. Now lead, totally worth of waiting, really nice on Rollarit scale!

First pitch

Nice overhanging and compact route!

Nice a bit overhanging crag. Sad thing is that it is quite polished.

All the way to the top. Nowadays fully bolted so no trad gear needed.

Sadly polished

Quite an endeavor. In my opinion the first trad pitches were harder than 5 and 4. Probably closer to 5+ and 5. Also third pitch is myriad. Used bolts of the 6b+ and traversed left.

First pitches are good practices and the interesting parts start high up.

I have been saving this for long time (no top roping). Now finally led it, happy but also bit dissapointed that it is over. Definitely the best trad climb in the area.

It could be wise to clip one longer quickdraw to the second bolt prior to climbing. Otherwise you might miss your onsight and end up with redpoint in your ass...

Nice easy and long trad climb. Bit wet, but climbable still

This route was in the topo by Slouppi, right from Veikka G, starts from the higher ground. Added it here, maybe already with different name

Bit wet, might explain why it felt harder.

Little bit loose rock in the ending, otherwise three stars. Best for the grade in the Rollarit. Finally got opportunity to lead. Perfect gear placement.

Short but sweet

Requires lot of brushing!

Top roped years ago, now trad (finally)

3rd go, nice line! Easy beginning and powerful straightforward crux on overhang. Good bolting!