Henrikki Matilainen

Finally. Have tried this on a few different session. First it felt impossible (bad connies and skin), then nearly got it but rain ended that sesh… then felt impossible again. Now connies were good, skin less so but fougth my way up it… topped perhaps a tad too far tight though.

Really liked the start, but topout was awful.

Nice start, awful topout #sessioseiskat

In Sanuks sans pads… topout was a tad sketchy in that style.

Felt hard, but also I’m out of climbing shape. Prolly between 6C+ and 7A. Really gritty and thus sharp rock, but holds can also break. Also quite a few ways to climb this and I’n sure some good holds still might lurk underneath the moss. #sessioseiskat

Nice climbing, a few tries to sort out the start, and then a go or to two after bailing from the top and checking out the holds. Nice line and nice moves. Perhaps a bit gritty/sharp at places, but climbing it slow and in control it didn’t matter at all. #sessioseiskat

2nd go staring with a nice layback sequence from the right. Don’t have the wingspan for the start.

One million minus stars for the holds. Plus 3 stars for the moves… not as painful If you get the moves and positions correct. Still -999 997 stars.

Nice variety of holds

Dab prone and somewhat sharp hold crystals. Might suit better those with less stature. #sessioseiskat

2nd go, could have flashed but bailed due to lack of (enough) pads/balls/spotters. Climbs really nice though.

A few goes to sort out the top (again). Then a few tries for the assis.

With a rather low assis, it actually climbed really well.

Liked the topout… might suit those with less stature. #sessioseiskat

Quite nice warmup.

Really nice line, but difficulty vise assis doesn’t add any difficulty. It does However complete it.

2nd go, dirty top warmup.

2nd go, helps If you know where the holds are. #sessioseiskay

If the left crack is not eliminated, then this be soft.

Easier for the short? Nice climb, but felt really easy as a warmup.

Crammed start. Climbed a bit differently than What I envisioned, but still a good techy line making the Most of such a lowball.

Climbs actually really well, for being such a lowball.

Indeed, sektorin hienoin as the name imply.

First go, after the direct... not easier or harder.

First go, but not really a flash as is lowered down and cleaned the holds and tried some of the positions.

Nice, where the tree not so close...

In Sanuks ;)

Tried this line close to 20 years ago, got spat off from the holds on the slab due to moist leaves (or me missing the actual hold...) and fell with a nice spinning action missing the pads and sinkin' nearly knee deep in the mud/muck. Left with a bruised ego, muddy foot and shoe and haven't really tried this ever since... now that I was still feeling the after effect of two lingering flu's, I figured that climbing something easier might be smart. Being older, I resorted to top-down approach and fixed a rope in place to clean to holds and feels the moves. After some hanging around on the rope, climbed to where the top slab stars and dropped on purpose to the pads to check they're ok. They were, so after a short rest, cruised to the top.

#sessioseiskat

A few goes. #sessioseiskat

Started from where the cracks meet and other hand lower on the vertical crack. Felt a tad reachy and would prolly climb nicer If used the slot in the horizontal crack. #sessioseiskat

Assis from the two slots in the crack would make this a really nice (but a tad uneven) line.

Felt hard, prolly due to being barefooted.

Barefoot

2nd go, could not fit into hook that Sari managed.

Barefoot

Harder and nicer than tge left areta imho.

First go, but tested some of the topout moves, so not a proper flash. #sessioseiskat

Not any easier than the ”6b+” I climbed on the lower boulder.

Nice texture on the rock at the start. #sessioseiskat

2nd go, broke a small flake at the start

Nice moves, and didn’t feel soft at all. And I’n reasonably good on crimps and vert walls. #sessioseiskat

Too gritty/coarse to be a 3* one. Nice moves and holds though. #sessioseiskat

Some variant of this anyway. #sessioseiskat

2nd go, a tad dab prone in the end.

Really nice moves on this one. #sessioseiskat

Low start still possible, but a lot harder. A tad higher start (still assis) felt about the grade.

Bouldered to the ledge and then Dropped off.

Tricky and somewhat condition dependent. With Timos match on rail beta. #sessioseiskat

Tricky start indeed…

#sessioseiskat

Just like in ’Bleau. Even a normal warm-up flashgrade demands more than just the flash-go.

A tad crammed start, but kneebar saved the day. Felt easier than some of the 6C/+ I tried… but perhaps this one suited me more. #sessioseiskat

Tricky with the feet weeping under the bulge.

Tricky, reachy with my beta, and sketchy topout with one pad and no spotter. But a good line.

Superheikon miehen beettalla... eli bulgen mikrokrimpeillää...

Viedobeettalla varmaan se 7A, jos kiipeis paremmin viivaa pitkin ni orkkisgreidikin pitää paremmin paikkansa.

#sessioseiska ja irtosi yllättävän helpolla. Ehkä olin oikeen kokoinen.

Less reachy line, and atleast with my reach and beta, also easier than the stand… who knew that is even possible !!!

#sessioseiskat

Jam jam

First proper go this time around. With high left heelhook (or heeltoe cam) and ”static” topout.

Really really good, were the holds a tad nicer this would be a **** problem.

Climbed something here, considerably harder than Parta-G. Started left on the 3 finger undercling pocket and right on the gritty pocket. #sessioseiskat

A few goes. Nice line, were the back wall looming not so close.

Really nice, crimpy line.

2nd ascent? A tad reachy start, but broke the beta with a cheeky undercling and cross-step. #sessioseiskat

2nd go or perhaps flash, can’t remember. Might be soft or suited me really well. #sessioseiskat

2nd go, as I dabbed at the start on the flash. As it felt so easy, also went direct up, omitting the jug/flakes on the left. Even that didn’t feel any harder than 6C. Nice miniline though. #sessioseiskat

Stellar route, but be sure to clean the top (often dirty it seems). Top now clean’ish, proper cleaning would have required ladders or rope, If someone has ’em do others a favour and clean the top properly.

Actually quite a nice one. A bit sharp, but suits my current form.

2nd go. Should have flashed

Nice techy moves.

Olipahan taistelu. Kokeillut tätä useina vuosina, mutta kun päätin oman beetan ni meni melko helposti. Siinä mielessä hiukan morpho, että pidemmällä keskikohta on tosiaan helpompi. En oo pitkä, ni siinähän se kruxi oli. Oma beetta, paras beetta.

Not any harder than the stand start.

Might have climbed something here 15-16 years ago.

Climbed this some 15-16 years ago.

Again climbed this some 15-16 years ago, albeit with a direct topout.

Climbed some non-eliminate version here roughly 15-16 years ago.

Really good and felt harder than the ones on Rantasektori. Really nice line though.

Perhaps a tad harder than it's neighbor. Different beta to the one on the vid (omitted the nice left hand areta sloper and went directly to the crimp & sidepull hold). #sessioseiskat

Climbed first with a regular sit start. Left on gaston crimp and a sloping sidepull for the right. Which made this feel about 6C. Climbed the route again as per video beta (low down sloper mantel) and it only adds one move and imho did not make it any harder).

reachy

Also climbed a variant more on the right face still omitting the holds of the 4 on the right face.

Hienoo kiivettävää, ei niin morpho startti kuin kuvaus lupaa. Ikävä ländi.

Kiva puhdas krimppi-ralli, hyvällä deadpoint startilla. Kolmannella tais mennä. Hieman morpho startti, jos oot lyhyt ni melko paljon hankalampi kuin jos oot keskikokoinen tai pidempi. #sessioseiskat

Menihän se viimein. Yhden pädin assis hieman enempi vasemmalta. Kiipes hiukan eri tavalla kuin alunperin se alku.

Instead of the traverse, climbed the direct topout, which is tres cool.

#sessioseiskat

Aloinkin oleen jo lopen uupunut tähän projektiin. Crimps brutal for the win.

That sloper, so sweet. #sessioseiskat

Trust Oliver, they say. He’s right #sessioseiskat

Tricky start to nice cruising.

Morpho !!!

Olioahan taistelu, lukemattomia sessioita vuosien varrella.

First go After the direct. #sessioseiskat

Creamy crimps #sessioseiskat

A few goes #sessioseiskat

A few goes

A few goes #sessioseiskat

A few goes, but did it as assis lower than the undercling. Felt hard, but might have been just tired.

That dyno!!! A few goes after Flabbergast. Nice techie and precise start to more modern middle part to juggy topout.

Sen puolentusinaa yrkkää, itse kiipesin aivan eri tavalla kuin ständin. #sessioseiskat

Aika jees

Hieno linja, joskin halkeamille syytä antaa vielä harjaa, niin et rahkasammaleet lähtee veks, ni ei itke.

Tulikohan startattua liian ylhäältä. Pieni lista noin missä linja tekee mutkan, about 30cm slouppihyllyn alapuolella. Vai onko se jalkareili eliminoitu?

lower starts still up for grabs. rock is also pretty sharp and while most of the loose rock/flakes are cleaned, there might be still a big loose flake near this line by the ground.

Nice.

A few goes, really really good line.

Took less effort than I thought. Nice technical climbing and while easier, high enough topout to be committing. #sessioseiskat

Quite nice line, but reasonably high sit start. As per original topo, start from two sidepulls where the line starts. #sessioseiskat

2nd go.

Yks vanhimpia akkoja selätetty. Old School 6A, eli en upgreidaa. Lyhyehkölle muutama jännä kohta hieman korkeammalla.

Perhaps a tad soft, or my endurance is better than normal. Felt as hard as Tahdissa Mars, albeit I have climbed that years earlier. #sessioseiskat

#sessioseiskat

2nd go After stand. #sessioseiskat

2nd go

Barefoot cooldown. Rather nice and tricky miniproblem

2nd go. Nice rock

A few goes #sessioseiskat

2nd go. Quite nice actually

Sharp, biting crystals on this one. Minus 3*

2nd go

Low assis, but not sure If low enough. Felt like 6C+/7A but would certainly be harder If started lower. Defining starting holds helps :). Had left hand at the sloper below the left areta, right at a tiny crimp at head height. #sessioseiskat

Barefoot

A few goes, started pretty much like Tomi. Lovely hand-feet match. #sessioseiskat

2nd go, felt a tad reachy at the start.

A few goes.

First go After climbing the stand. Assis changed the start of the stand to be a tad harder, but not really worth adding the grade. Nicer line than the stand as you get more varied climbing, but the stand is more simplified problem. #sessioseiskat

Third go, quite nice actually. #sessioseiskat

A third go or so. #sessioseiskat

Tahkoin jotain assista. Startti vasen pieni saidari ja oikee underi-saidari. Ei mennyt ja tuntui lähempää 7A/B:ltä. Low start vasen kahvasta ja oikee underi-saidarista tuntui sitten joltain 6C/+:lta.

A few goes

Easy with the right beta, hard with out. #sessioseiskat

Assis, with lovely rock

FA?

Felt like 6C+ or 7A, but the blistering heat might have something to do with it.

2nd go

A tad reachy. If someone has said 7A I would not have even blinked. The heat certainly made things harder.

2nd go

Actually took more tries to Climb than Trancendence, which I climbed first. But pretty un-even line. For me a tough or tricky start to cruising. Transendence was much more continous and thus interesting.

A few goes. Nice techie line.

Hieno kanttiralli, starttasin ite vasemmalta feissiltä ennen teknistä pyörähdystä oikealle.

Tää oli taas kiva, kiipesin toki assiksella mut enivei.

Crammed and straining line with somewhat bad or limited footholds. Might suit those with less stature. A few tries, #sessioseiskat

Tää oli kans hyvä... oi jos se topin släbihalkeema jatkuis sen 1000m ni avot.

Tää oli kiva, kiipes hienosti.

Sormeikas ja napakka startti. Mario 2020 assis oli helpompi (tai oon vaan surkee).

Olipas raskas startti, ei merkittävästi helpompi kuin viereinen Liinu tai Super Mario 2020 assis... tai sit oon vaan surkee.

A few tries. Started perhaps a tad more to the left as the obvious start was a waterfall, but how we started felt harder as it omitted some of the good holds you would use coming in from the right (as they were again a waterfall).

Tuli eka puskettua liian suoraan, sitte koukkasin ehkä liian paljon vasemman kautta. Mutta tuntui noillakin muuveilla about 6C:ltä et menkööt.

Bastard of a start move for a shortie... A bit uneven line, but climbs nicely. Oma beetta paras beetta. #sessioseiskat

Tried the center line, fell from the top. Tried again an ripped off the starting hold and had to re-adjust. Third time messed the top (again). Fourth time the charm.

This one made a big hole on me middle finger, hence the name.

A few goes to sort out the start, tried first from lower holds.

First go, but did try the moves on rope while I cleaned the holds. #sessioseiskat

Climbed two different variants, one without the start feet flake.

First go, but climbed V-Keski first.

First go, but climbed V-keski before.

Trust thy feet at the topout.

Lovely Kustavi simulator. Wish this was taller, by ten fold.

Mellow start to trickier ending.

Direct topout without the bailout ledge on the right. Might be 5 like I climbed it.

Added an assis, top was a tad reachy for a short arse. Climbs nicely.

Terävä ja omilla mitoilla ei jäänyt paljon pelivaraa. Hieno linja, mutta vetää näillä mitoilla melko lähelle oikealla olevaa kanttia. Ekaks kiipesin kantilla ja sitten ilman. Voisi jopa olla 6c+ (tai mulla huono päivä) näillä mitoilla ilman kanttia. Kantilla varmaan 6b+/c akselilla ku alussa joutuu jo venyyn.

Ehkä oli heikko päivä, mutta pygmille oli melko jäpittelyä ja venymistä ennen toppia.

Tää oli kyl hieno linja. Kiva kantti-ralli ja kiipes hienosti.

Tough for a weakling. Brushed the pad on the crux, and again when doing a victory hang from the ledge. Will need to get this properly next time I'm around. #sessioseiskat

A flash, except for the part that top is shared with Expanse. #sessioseiskat

Liskomambo. Prefectin kiikkujen sivutuote kun tuo linja päättyy mun mitoilla no hands restiin.

first go, barefoot... not a flash as shares the start with Amanda...

barefoot flash

Olipahan taistelu, kun ei oo ihoa, ulottuvuutta tai voimaa... yllätyslähetys, kun akku oli jo tyhjä.

Some version, felt a tad harder than Trust Right. #sessioseiskat

A few goes, quite nice actually.

A few goes, to get the day started.

Not as sketchy as it seems, a tad dab sensitive. #sessioseiskat

3rd go ? Nice crimpy line. Best beta is shite beta. #sessioseiskat

Really nice pygmi friendly moves. Might be a tad dab sensitive to them lankier dudes et dudesses

Nice techie line. About a dozen tries or so. Mantle and a few moves after which revesrsed and jumped off due to being a family man. #sessioseiskat

Perhaps a dozen tries, with Emmi’s super good and low energy toehook beta.

A few goes, quite nice actually

Coretus maximus for a lard ass. Tried this years ago and felt I was too ”short”, infact I was just weak. With big boy beta reach, but shortie no swing for feet.

Fourth or fifth go, start proved to crux with either heel toes or kneebar. First go with kneebar. #sessioseiskat

3rd go, a bit sharp and also could do with a good steel brushing. Nice moves though.

Like ten tries or so, too many options for beta ;) #sessioseiskat

Accidental assis, more like really awkward horizontal Hard Very Severe (but no need to fiddle in gear). #sessioseiskat

Followed where the gals said the line goes, and now looking at the pic might have topped out a tad too early. #sessioseiskat

A few tries.

Tuli sitten kiivettyä kunnon eliminaatti, tuntui hauskemmalta ku orkkis.

A few goes

Ykkösellä, mut jakaa osan tosta Anssin setistä, ni ei voi olla flash.

Nice techie line… might have about perfekt size for this, as it felt rather easy.

Kahdella eri tavalla..rehellinen släbä.

A few goes, a tad fingery and coarse rock.

Saattaapi olla hieman morpho, mutta menihän se viimein. Toinenkin akka seinältä ja kolmas seppo lokiin. Ihan jeppis iltapäivä.

Vanhojen akkojen poistoa seinältä, mutta vaikka sen startin on kiivennyt, niin joutui taas tovin hakeen.

Oman elämnsä sankari kiipeää omalla beettalla. Vaikka ensi alkuun näyttää hieman morpholta, niin ku löyty oma beetta kasaan ni ei ollut sitä. Lienee #sessioseiska, kun en muista ennen tätä työstäneen.

Flashed the line drawn (start matched on the lower hold left of the line). Crammed start and sharp rock. Felt like a low six, but I do have flexible hips. Also climbed a line Pasi took, a tad more to the right, and it offered completely different (but cool moves). Harder though, but not as sharp. Perhaps mid to high 6.

About ten tries or so. Delicate start to luckily easier topout. Nice balancy compression climbing to start things. #sessioseiskat

Startin hiukkakivimäinen käsiote oli kyl siistä. Jotain tästä kiivettiin ja #riehuli myös.

Tuli kiivettyä parikin eri versiota tästä (hieman eri otteilla).

Tää oli kyl hieno

Tuli ekalal kiivettyä liikaa vasemmalla ku stiigailin olisko sopiva #riehulille... kyll oli. Topon tarkistuksen jälkeen sitten niinku pitikin.

Needed two pads to fill the hole and reach the starting holds. Start is a bit crammed if your lanky.

Straight forwards mantle problem.

2nd go

First go, but climbed the assis first.

Warmup 2nd go.

Varmaan väärin kiivetty, pitkällä oikeen lukolla skipaten kantti.

Kiva kräkki lenkkareissa

Kausi auki

3rd or 2nd go, climbs really well. Went a tad more direct than Oliver on the video. #sessioseiskat

Like 3 or 4 goes, felt rather easy, 'cept for the topout (moist and full of leaves). #sessioseiskat

Like 4 goes, also felt like the hardest line I climbed here. Really cool though.

Really nice technical assis to Prime Time Violence.

First I though this is an idiotic eliminate. Then I tried it and the moves are actually really good. "Flashed" it, but my right knee dabbed the eliminated wall. A few goes later a no dabs send. #sessioseiskat

Pygmi beta, painfull sharp crimps on the topout.

A few goes. #sessioseiskat

Tried the other areta a few times in the past. Now when on the correct place it felt rather easy. 2nd go. #sessioseiskat

Olispas kiva tekninen ja sormeikas ralli. #fa #sessioseiskat

This has felt impossible in the past and now it went like on the 6th go.

Like a half a dozen tries. Nice start, but the ending crack was absolute shite. Especially when the crystals of doom crack was soakin’ wet. #sessioseiskat

Two more goes After the direct.

Todays warmup. Like half a dozen tries or so. Last time I tried this it felt impossible, now it was quite easy.

Not a proper #sessioseiskat, as I tried this last Fri. But due to dirty topout bailed. Now cleaned the top (somewhat) and checked the holds. Did it first try from the ground today. Stellar line with committing climbing high up. The actual topout is easy, but feels scary. More cleaning might be wise. If you’re a lot shorter than me and Oliver, the crux is going to be desperate. 2nd ascent?

Quite nice actually, but a tad reachy start. #sessioseiskat

NIce, but a tad reachy or unbalancy high feet....

Needed to use velcro shoes and not slippers, as the heel hooks were just too much for slippers.

A few goes after climbing Pygmirina. And not really any harder, certainly not a 7A. Didn't use the crimps or the gastons, simply stood up from the start, went right hand up on to the arete of the crack, spread eagle for the feet and mellow but a tad long reach for the legde of pygmirina. Nice and casual. The top portion of Pygmirina still feels harder than anything before.

Nice moves, direct top out. Balancy mid section.

Finally, I've battled with this line for ages. Climbed easier mid sevens, but this is benchmark old school 6c/+, so be it. Climbed with a nice sequence for technique for the start followed by a couple of dynamic moves to the end.

Hard for the short... Liked this in a perverse kind of way. Tested some 15 or so different betas for the start before finding the most probable, and that worked. #sessioseiskat

One long standing project down. Funny, went rather easily today but has felt desperate in the past. Really cool problem with balance, technique, knee bars and even a toehook.

Climbed something here, that felt about the grade. Nice line with slopers, crimps, toehooks and technique. A bit to the left from where drawn.

Crammed start followed by balancy and thin climbing mainly on small crimps. Topout is a bit mossy, but it's easy enough so no worries.

Ok sneaker line.

I liked this one, 'cept for the jump part and that the wall was weeping. Will be considerably harder for the short. #sessioseiskat

Tricky start, especially when the wall was weeping. Could easily give this 6c+ but perhaps it felt so hard due to being so wet.

A long time coming, have tried this quite a few times in the past every few years. This time, it took like ten tries or so. With completely static beta, got both feet high and then just carefully reached for the top.

Finally, have tried this at least a few times in the past.

Tricky start, felt about the same grade as Misty.

Nice line. As precise deadpoints are certainly not my forte, climbed this with a weakling right heel Hook and rights sidepull beta. Never matched on the left jug.

Quite nice actually, but not a stellar landing.

Nice dihedral crack climb. First go, but not a flash as the assis is the same as for Beaver scream.

Like the moves, but took almost too many tries, mainly 'cause I was an idiot. Once I re-figured out the beta that worked at the start of the session, it was soon in the bag. Counting this as #sessioseiskat as I have not tried this line in the past, even if the topout is the same as for Swearjar and Skit deluxe.

Can’t comment on grade, started like Marjo and skipped the rail as I was too weak for the next move.

Nice moves and technical climbing. Assis adds a bit to the line and is a perhaps a tad morpho. #sessioseiskat

2nd ascent? Not too bad as traverses go, awkward ending though. Climbed it first go, but not a proper flash as I did the traverse to the other direction earlier.

Nice moves and not really morpho, technical though. Took like half a dozen tries, since I kept messing up the part where ya join the Busters. #sessioseiskat

Cool but a tad spooky topout.

Not really sessioseiskat as I tried this in the past a few times. 2nd go as a warmup this time.

This one was nice.

Moves are good. Rock is sharp. ’Flashed’ this but skipped the first move. Then took a few more tries to get it in the bag. Also made things harder by crumbling a few footholds, making the mid part harder for shorties. #sessioseiskat

Got it first go, but tried a harder variant first, so not a flash.

Nice

Classic techy line. Hard to read.

Nice traverse.

2nd go when tried from the correct place. Tried previously like a meter left.

Heelhook slipped on first go, but flashed morphonatsi earlier, so couldn’t flash this anyhow.

A few goes. Nice line.

Less than half a dozen tries. A tad too sharp to get any stars. #sessioseiskat

Start might have been morpho, If forced starting holds. But as not the case, a good line.

I love cracks and jam

Well duh, #sessioseiskat

Moves are really, really good. But some of the holds really, really sharp. Took 3 sessions as you could only give like 10 tries before a big ass gash on yer fingers. Today the start was a waterfall, but pluggin’ socks in the undercling crack kept it dry enough for the send.

Nice line at the grade range.

Not as cool as Excellent, but nice one still. Flashed this, but as it shares the topout with Excellent, can't call it a flash.

Line live up to its name. Good moves and rock. Not the hardest of 7s I've done, but not the easiest either. #sessioseiskat

Nice traverse, easier for the short me thinks.

Crimpy, climbed sanse areta (but small crimp below it was used). Close on the flash, but the sequence I tried was too powerful for a weakling like me. Had to adjust the sequence a bit before I got it. Like half a dozen tries. #sessioseiskat

Not sure if assis or stand. Climbed a balancy stand start and felt like a low 6 or so.

Nice slab, might have veered a tad too much to the right or not. Felt like a low 6 anyway...

In sneakers, cool down.

A few goes, warm-up.

Downclimbas as a way down.