Henrikki Matilainen

Took a few goes to sort out a good beta for the assis. Then it was a casual cruise to the top. Nice start for the outdoor season with a casual #sessioseiskat send.

First go, but shares holds with Valiant. And also whilst cleaning the top holds on a rope, tried a few body positions.

Season starter. Took a few goes to sort out the body positions and which holds to use.

Harjailin joskus kesällä yön about puhtaaksi (no ne otteet mitä näin). Myöhemmin hiffasin, et lienee se Nugentin mainitsema linja. Helteellä ja ilman nahkoja tuntui mahottamalta. Nyt meni melko kivuttomasti. Hieno linja. Assis on ahdas tai eliminaatti, kun järkevin linja menis ylös isoa halkeamaa ja lienee merkittävästi helpompi. Ständi samasta säälittävästä vasurin kahden sormen jalkaotteesta ja oikee hienosta slotti-saidarista. Siten hiukan vasemmalle hienoon slouppi-pokettiin ja siitä sitten ihan hienoilla pienillä otteilla.

Hieno, mutta todellakin morpho. Hiukankin vähemmän vartta ja saa kurkotella jostain muualta kuin startti hyllyltä/halkeamalta. Tosin kyllä ne moovit mahollisuuta lyhkäsemmillekin näyttää, vaan vaikeampia.

Really nice moves to get established on the ledge. Many ways to skin the cat, to do the start.

Taitaa olla inan morpho linja. Assis ei oo lyhkäselle paha, mutta ylhäällä onkin sitten ikävämpää. Tais olla #sessioseiska

Olipahan taas taistelu, hyvä muistutus miksi vihaan työstämistä. Vaatii kaks sessiota ku ei nahat riittäneet ekalla kertaa. Sendi-sessiossa pitikin sitten valmiiksi suunniteltu beetta toiminutkaan jostain syystä pari viikkoa myöhemmin.

The most obvious line here. Why on earth it was not climbed, instead some forced and contrived lines can be found on either side? FA?

Not for my hips… and some crappy holds on it (plus the classic sh!tstart). But this one also had some nice moves… quite bipolar.

First go, but as the top is shared with the more obvious crack line, rp it is.

Not a great line, but has a few nice moves. Cleaned on TR and tried the holds and positions. First go from the ground.

First go, but not a flash as I cleaned it on a tr going up. FA I think.

Quite a Tough one, especially since part of the holds were hiding under a thick blanket of moss… mostly clean now though, go get it…

Started left on low foot block/crimp and right on the middle undercling/pinch. Still a tad hard due to the downhill slope.

Actually pretty cool moves at the start, to a nice line. Not as shitty as the name implies.

Nicer than the dogleg original. Same grade.

Käytännössä #sessioseiska, hiplasin vähän otteita josku aikanaan ja tuomitsin liian raastavaksi. Nyt sitten meni ihmeen kivuttomasti.

Took quite a few tries to sort out a usable beta, as pretty much every hold was soaking wet and took effort to make ’em dry enough to climb.

Took a few more tries After the stand to sort out the wet starting beta.

Started from the left sidepull, but right on the areta at the same height from compression (where the second move of the assis goes).

Liedown starts are the best.

Difficult to know where the line goes and What is eliminated. Started right on tiny crimp snd left on slouper. Went up without using the good areta or the ledge on the left.

2nd ho I think. Nice line.

Tough start to easier, but rattly vuxenklätring.

Really nice line, despite the lack of height. Loved the kneebar.

I guess you could call it a flash, but since I climbed the top some years ago, first-go and redpoint it shall be.

Crammed assis from a sidepull below the lip and sloper on the lip. Felt like a tussle. The higher you start the easier it gets.

Pretty size dependent start. Might be actually easier since just before this trip I managed to squash my right middlefinger between a log and a stone… and yesterday took a tumble on a rocky beach and properly hurt the muscles on my right forearm. But I’ll take the grade and #sessioseiskat anyway as the grades do feel consistant here (If Sometimes soft).

A few goes, started from a crimp (the one of Kanel) and low sidepull crimp (for the right). Also climbed up more to the left. That felt like ~6C. Climbing more on the right will make it a lot easier by the looks of it. Like 3 or 4 goes.

Somewhat tricky start, albeit I tried a harder lower start first.

Finally. Have tried this on a few different session. First it felt impossible (bad connies and skin), then nearly got it but rain ended that sesh… then felt impossible again. Now connies were good, skin less so but fougth my way up it… topped perhaps a tad too far tight though.

Really liked the start, but topout was awful.

Nice start, awful topout #sessioseiskat

In Sanuks sans pads… topout was a tad sketchy in that style.

Felt hard, but also I’m out of climbing shape. Prolly between 6C+ and 7A. Really gritty and thus sharp rock, but holds can also break. Also quite a few ways to climb this and I’n sure some good holds still might lurk underneath the moss. #sessioseiskat

Nice climbing, a few tries to sort out the start, and then a go or to two after bailing from the top and checking out the holds. Nice line and nice moves. Perhaps a bit gritty/sharp at places, but climbing it slow and in control it didn’t matter at all. #sessioseiskat

Nice moves and line, not stellar rock

Failed on the onsight due to dirty topout funnel. Rapped down and gave it a proper cleaning. Climbed nicely post cleaning.

2nd go staring with a nice layback sequence from the right. Don’t have the wingspan for the start.

One million minus stars for the holds. Plus 3 stars for the moves… not as painful If you get the moves and positions correct. Still -999 997 stars.

Nice variety of holds

Dab prone and somewhat sharp hold crystals. Might suit better those with less stature. #sessioseiskat

2nd go, could have flashed but bailed due to lack of (enough) pads/balls/spotters. Climbs really nice though.

A few goes to sort out the top (again). Then a few tries for the assis.

With a rather low assis, it actually climbed really well.

Liked the topout… might suit those with less stature. #sessioseiskat

Quite nice warmup.

Really nice line, but difficulty vise assis doesn’t add any difficulty. It does However complete it.

2nd go, dirty top warmup.

2nd go, helps If you know where the holds are. #sessioseiskay

If the left crack is not eliminated, then this be soft.

Easier for the short? Nice climb, but felt really easy as a warmup.

Crammed start. Climbed a bit differently than What I envisioned, but still a good techy line making the Most of such a lowball.

Climbs actually really well, for being such a lowball.

Indeed, sektorin hienoin as the name imply.

First go, after the direct... not easier or harder.

First go, but not really a flash as is lowered down and cleaned the holds and tried some of the positions.

Nice, where the tree not so close...

In Sanuks ;)

Tried this line close to 20 years ago, got spat off from the holds on the slab due to moist leaves (or me missing the actual hold...) and fell with a nice spinning action missing the pads and sinkin' nearly knee deep in the mud/muck. Left with a bruised ego, muddy foot and shoe and haven't really tried this ever since... now that I was still feeling the after effect of two lingering flu's, I figured that climbing something easier might be smart. Being older, I resorted to top-down approach and fixed a rope in place to clean to holds and feels the moves. After some hanging around on the rope, climbed to where the top slab stars and dropped on purpose to the pads to check they're ok. They were, so after a short rest, cruised to the top.

First RP, knew the top part from Koski-Jyrkynen so would have been RP in anycase. Checked the gear on TR and lead straight After.

First RP, but had toproped earlier. Nice bouldery line. Basically two blocks with a reasonable rest in between and easier climbing to the anchor.

#sessioseiskat

A few goes. #sessioseiskat

Started from where the cracks meet and other hand lower on the vertical crack. Felt a tad reachy and would prolly climb nicer If used the slot in the horizontal crack. #sessioseiskat

Assis from the two slots in the crack would make this a really nice (but a tad uneven) line.

Felt hard, prolly due to being barefooted.

Barefoot

2nd go, could not fit into hook that Sari managed.

Great day out with Jussi N. Led all the pitches except the last one (Jussi did a N6 variation on it). Most pitches were wet or damp, making the climbing feel a tad harder.

Barefoot

Harder and nicer than tge left areta imho.

First go, but tested some of the topout moves, so not a proper flash. #sessioseiskat

Not any easier than the ”6b+” I climbed on the lower boulder.

Nice texture on the rock at the start. #sessioseiskat

2nd go, broke a small flake at the start

Nice moves, and didn’t feel soft at all. And I’n reasonably good on crimps and vert walls. #sessioseiskat

Too gritty/coarse to be a 3* one. Nice moves and holds though. #sessioseiskat

Some variant of this anyway. #sessioseiskat

2nd go, a tad dab prone in the end.

Really nice moves on this one. #sessioseiskat

Low start still possible, but a lot harder. A tad higher start (still assis) felt about the grade.

Cruddy and not so nice start.

As I bouldered the start during the Grand Re-Opening (as I punter, I forgot my harness)

Nice rope solo

Bouldered to the ledge and then Dropped off.

Bouldered to the ledge, clipped into the leadrope and grigri, before rope soloing to the top.

Up to the 2nd bolt.

Quite nice for a rope solo.

Tricky and somewhat condition dependent. With Timos match on rail beta. #sessioseiskat

Gear a bit thin at places, but more cleaning will certainly make it better (I dug out a few small good cams). Also since I was OS, I did perhaps end up a tad too much to the left on a ledge, but gettin’ back on the line was almost as hard as the crux. Nice topout.

Onsight as drawn redpoint for the Norjamäki direct start (with preclip on the first bolt).

Tricky start indeed…

#sessioseiskat

Just like in ’Bleau. Even a normal warm-up flashgrade demands more than just the flash-go.

A tad crammed start, but kneebar saved the day. Felt easier than some of the 6C/+ I tried… but perhaps this one suited me more. #sessioseiskat

Tricky with the feet weeping under the bulge.

Bouldered the start a few times, so redpoint it is. Even If I flashed ”it” once I finally tied in. Also cleaned it on rappel, albeit it was mostly clean.

Felt hard due to all the soggy crap in the crack. Now clean’ish as I rapped down and took away Most of the crap.

Tricky, reachy with my beta, and sketchy topout with one pad and no spotter. But a good line.

Superheikon miehen beettalla... eli bulgen mikrokrimpeillää...

Viedobeettalla varmaan se 7A, jos kiipeis paremmin viivaa pitkin ni orkkisgreidikin pitää paremmin paikkansa.

#sessioseiska ja irtosi yllättävän helpolla. Ehkä olin oikeen kokoinen.

Less reachy line, and atleast with my reach and beta, also easier than the stand… who knew that is even possible !!!

#sessioseiskat

Jam jam

First proper go this time around. With high left heelhook (or heeltoe cam) and ”static” topout.

Really really good, were the holds a tad nicer this would be a **** problem.

Climbed something here, considerably harder than Parta-G. Started left on the 3 finger undercling pocket and right on the gritty pocket. #sessioseiskat

A few goes. Nice line, were the back wall looming not so close.

Really nice, crimpy line.

2nd ascent? A tad reachy start, but broke the beta with a cheeky undercling and cross-step. #sessioseiskat

2nd go or perhaps flash, can’t remember. Might be soft or suited me really well. #sessioseiskat

2nd go, as I dabbed at the start on the flash. As it felt so easy, also went direct up, omitting the jug/flakes on the left. Even that didn’t feel any harder than 6C. Nice miniline though. #sessioseiskat

Stellar route, but be sure to clean the top (often dirty it seems). Top now clean’ish, proper cleaning would have required ladders or rope, If someone has ’em do others a favour and clean the top properly.

Actually quite a nice one. A bit sharp, but suits my current form.

2nd go. Should have flashed

Nice techy moves.

Olipahan taistelu. Kokeillut tätä useina vuosina, mutta kun päätin oman beetan ni meni melko helposti. Siinä mielessä hiukan morpho, että pidemmällä keskikohta on tosiaan helpompi. En oo pitkä, ni siinähän se kruxi oli. Oma beetta, paras beetta.

Merimari ending variaatiolla (kun oli siellä se ankkuri jo valmis... ja halkeama näytti niin herkulliselta).

Not any harder than the stand start.

Might have climbed something here 15-16 years ago.

Climbed this some 15-16 years ago.

Again climbed this some 15-16 years ago, albeit with a direct topout.

Climbed some non-eliminate version here roughly 15-16 years ago.

Really good and felt harder than the ones on Rantasektori. Really nice line though.

Perhaps a tad harder than it's neighbor. Different beta to the one on the vid (omitted the nice left hand areta sloper and went directly to the crimp & sidepull hold). #sessioseiskat

Climbed first with a regular sit start. Left on gaston crimp and a sloping sidepull for the right. Which made this feel about 6C. Climbed the route again as per video beta (low down sloper mantel) and it only adds one move and imho did not make it any harder).

reachy

Also climbed a variant more on the right face still omitting the holds of the 4 on the right face.

Hienoo kiivettävää, ei niin morpho startti kuin kuvaus lupaa. Ikävä ländi.

Kiva puhdas krimppi-ralli, hyvällä deadpoint startilla. Kolmannella tais mennä. Hieman morpho startti, jos oot lyhyt ni melko paljon hankalampi kuin jos oot keskikokoinen tai pidempi. #sessioseiskat

Menihän se viimein. Yhden pädin assis hieman enempi vasemmalta. Kiipes hiukan eri tavalla kuin alunperin se alku.

Instead of the traverse, climbed the direct topout, which is tres cool.

#sessioseiskat

Aloinkin oleen jo lopen uupunut tähän projektiin. Crimps brutal for the win.

That sloper, so sweet. #sessioseiskat

Trust Oliver, they say. He’s right #sessioseiskat

Tricky start to nice cruising.

Morpho !!!

Olioahan taistelu, lukemattomia sessioita vuosien varrella.

First go After the direct. #sessioseiskat

Creamy crimps #sessioseiskat

A few goes #sessioseiskat

A few goes

A few goes #sessioseiskat

A few goes, but did it as assis lower than the undercling. Felt hard, but might have been just tired.

That dyno!!! A few goes after Flabbergast. Nice techie and precise start to more modern middle part to juggy topout.

Sen puolentusinaa yrkkää, itse kiipesin aivan eri tavalla kuin ständin. #sessioseiskat

Aika jees

Hieno linja, joskin halkeamille syytä antaa vielä harjaa, niin et rahkasammaleet lähtee veks, ni ei itke.

Tulikohan startattua liian ylhäältä. Pieni lista noin missä linja tekee mutkan, about 30cm slouppihyllyn alapuolella. Vai onko se jalkareili eliminoitu?

lower starts still up for grabs. rock is also pretty sharp and while most of the loose rock/flakes are cleaned, there might be still a big loose flake near this line by the ground.

Nice.

A few goes, really really good line.

Took less effort than I thought. Nice technical climbing and while easier, high enough topout to be committing. #sessioseiskat

2nd go warmup. Again crag fully ticked. Also enjoyed a Elbesandstein ascent of First Past the Post to set up a TR for the kids. And first go repeats of Bensaa Suonissa and Smooth operator. Albeit technically Smooth was not a first go, had a few false starts before the first bolt, but that doesn’t really matter as I have this climbed quite a few years ago.

Quite nice line, but reasonably high sit start. As per original topo, start from two sidepulls where the line starts. #sessioseiskat

2nd go.

Yks vanhimpia akkoja selätetty. Old School 6A, eli en upgreidaa. Lyhyehkölle muutama jännä kohta hieman korkeammalla.

Perhaps a tad soft, or my endurance is better than normal. Felt as hard as Tahdissa Mars, albeit I have climbed that years earlier. #sessioseiskat

#sessioseiskat

2nd go After stand. #sessioseiskat

2nd go

Barefoot cooldown. Rather nice and tricky miniproblem

2nd go. Nice rock

A few goes #sessioseiskat

2nd go. Quite nice actually

Sharp, biting crystals on this one. Minus 3*

2nd go

Low assis, but not sure If low enough. Felt like 6C+/7A but would certainly be harder If started lower. Defining starting holds helps :). Had left hand at the sloper below the left areta, right at a tiny crimp at head height. #sessioseiskat

Barefoot

A few goes, started pretty much like Tomi. Lovely hand-feet match. #sessioseiskat

2nd go, felt a tad reachy at the start.

A few goes.

First go After climbing the stand. Assis changed the start of the stand to be a tad harder, but not really worth adding the grade. Nicer line than the stand as you get more varied climbing, but the stand is more simplified problem. #sessioseiskat

Third go, quite nice actually. #sessioseiskat

A third go or so. #sessioseiskat

Tahkoin jotain assista. Startti vasen pieni saidari ja oikee underi-saidari. Ei mennyt ja tuntui lähempää 7A/B:ltä. Low start vasen kahvasta ja oikee underi-saidarista tuntui sitten joltain 6C/+:lta.

Barefoot

Barefoot

Barefoot

A few goes

Easy with the right beta, hard with out. #sessioseiskat

Assis, with lovely rock

FA?

Felt like 6C+ or 7A, but the blistering heat might have something to do with it.

2nd go

A tad reachy. If someone has said 7A I would not have even blinked. The heat certainly made things harder.

2nd go

FA? Flash to where it joins Marginaali, which I climbed earlier. Hence RP

6B boulder into 6- crack.

Setting up TR for Vallu

Not much easier than Lumikko. But less sustained.

Actually took more tries to Climb than Trancendence, which I climbed first. But pretty un-even line. For me a tough or tricky start to cruising. Transendence was much more continous and thus interesting.

A few goes. Nice techie line.

With the nicer and harder direct start. Also cams in pockets on granite, one star for that.

Kivaa kruisailua.

Hieno kanttiralli, starttasin ite vasemmalta feissiltä ennen teknistä pyörähdystä oikealle.

Tää oli taas kiva, kiipesin toki assiksella mut enivei.

Crammed and straining line with somewhat bad or limited footholds. Might suit those with less stature. A few tries, #sessioseiskat

Tää oli kans hyvä... oi jos se topin släbihalkeema jatkuis sen 1000m ni avot.

Tää oli kiva, kiipes hienosti.

Sormeikas ja napakka startti. Mario 2020 assis oli helpompi (tai oon vaan surkee).

Olipas raskas startti, ei merkittävästi helpompi kuin viereinen Liinu tai Super Mario 2020 assis... tai sit oon vaan surkee.

A few tries. Started perhaps a tad more to the left as the obvious start was a waterfall, but how we started felt harder as it omitted some of the good holds you would use coming in from the right (as they were again a waterfall).

Tuli eka puskettua liian suoraan, sitte koukkasin ehkä liian paljon vasemman kautta. Mutta tuntui noillakin muuveilla about 6C:ltä et menkööt.

Bastard of a start move for a shortie... A bit uneven line, but climbs nicely. Oma beetta paras beetta. #sessioseiskat

Tried the center line, fell from the top. Tried again an ripped off the starting hold and had to re-adjust. Third time messed the top (again). Fourth time the charm.

This one made a big hole on me middle finger, hence the name.

A few goes to sort out the start, tried first from lower holds.

First go, but did try the moves on rope while I cleaned the holds. #sessioseiskat

Climbed two different variants, one without the start feet flake.

First go, but climbed V-Keski first.

First go, but climbed V-keski before.

Trust thy feet at the topout.

Lovely Kustavi simulator. Wish this was taller, by ten fold.

Mellow start to trickier ending.

Direct topout without the bailout ledge on the right. Might be 5 like I climbed it.

Added an assis, top was a tad reachy for a short arse. Climbs nicely.

Terävä ja omilla mitoilla ei jäänyt paljon pelivaraa. Hieno linja, mutta vetää näillä mitoilla melko lähelle oikealla olevaa kanttia. Ekaks kiipesin kantilla ja sitten ilman. Voisi jopa olla 6c+ (tai mulla huono päivä) näillä mitoilla ilman kanttia. Kantilla varmaan 6b+/c akselilla ku alussa joutuu jo venyyn.

Ehkä oli heikko päivä, mutta pygmille oli melko jäpittelyä ja venymistä ennen toppia.

Tää oli kyl hieno linja. Kiva kantti-ralli ja kiipes hienosti.

Tough for a weakling. Brushed the pad on the crux, and again when doing a victory hang from the ledge. Will need to get this properly next time I'm around. #sessioseiskat

A flash, except for the part that top is shared with Expanse. #sessioseiskat

Liskomambo. Prefectin kiikkujen sivutuote kun tuo linja päättyy mun mitoilla no hands restiin.

first go, barefoot... not a flash as shares the start with Amanda...

barefoot flash

Olipahan taistelu, kun ei oo ihoa, ulottuvuutta tai voimaa... yllätyslähetys, kun akku oli jo tyhjä.

Some version, felt a tad harder than Trust Right. #sessioseiskat

A few goes, quite nice actually.

A few goes, to get the day started.

Not as sketchy as it seems, a tad dab sensitive. #sessioseiskat

3rd go ? Nice crimpy line. Best beta is shite beta. #sessioseiskat

Really nice pygmi friendly moves. Might be a tad dab sensitive to them lankier dudes et dudesses

Nice techie line. About a dozen tries or so. Mantle and a few moves after which revesrsed and jumped off due to being a family man. #sessioseiskat

Perhaps a dozen tries, with Emmi’s super good and low energy toehook beta.

A few goes, quite nice actually

Coretus maximus for a lard ass. Tried this years ago and felt I was too ”short”, infact I was just weak. With big boy beta reach, but shortie no swing for feet.

Fourth or fifth go, start proved to crux with either heel toes or kneebar. First go with kneebar. #sessioseiskat

3rd go, a bit sharp and also could do with a good steel brushing. Nice moves though.

Like ten tries or so, too many options for beta ;) #sessioseiskat

Accidental assis, more like really awkward horizontal Hard Very Severe (but no need to fiddle in gear). #sessioseiskat

Followed where the gals said the line goes, and now looking at the pic might have topped out a tad too early. #sessioseiskat

A few tries.

Tuli sitten kiivettyä kunnon eliminaatti, tuntui hauskemmalta ku orkkis.